"bump"... Hope someone who knows more than I do can help you with this. Good luck.

We have butcher block countertops, and I would definitely not want that space behind the sink to be butcher block either. It would constantly need to be dried and oiled. We have a farmhouse style sink and it backs up all the way to the backsplash, so I'm not sure what advice I can give.

Soooo...after years of tearing up houses, one thing that stays consistent? Wood and water don't mix. I walk the showrooms and shake my head because of the money spent for the uber cool look...that I will get paid a bunch of money a few years down the road to tear out and fix. Wood in contact with water molds and rots (that what mold does, right?) so putting wood next to a sink is just plain asking me to come on out in a few years and tear it out again. Job security? I've torn out mahogany, teak, redwood, cedar...just about any wood that we use that RESISTS rot...because it finally gave up the ghost and rotted anyway. Maple butcher block...seven years tops. Less if it just oiled.

Moving your sink all the way to the backsplash may cause some other dominoes to fall. Hooking up the faucet or working on it when it fails will be very difficult...so maintenance will cost more. Hooking up the disposer and trap may be impossible without re-plumbing the drain and vent. Too much happening is too small a space. Oh...and see below about your sink...no clamping it if there is no counter top to clamp to.

And yeah, BTW, your sink is not flush mounted. We call that type "self-rimming". It is clamped to the counter top in a bed of caulk and has a little bump that prevents water on the counter top from reaching the sink. "Flush mount" is typically a tile in sink and usually only an option with porcelain or porcelain on cast iron. Undermount sinks allow the water from the counter top to be swept into the sink with ease.

So, I actually did find some pictures with the butcher block behind the sink. Maybe it would be fine?

Any space around the sink with wood will take constant care. Listen to Ironwood Builders.

oh, i am listening, even though ironwood builders is crushing my dream, with his/her good sense, experience, and logic, lol! thanks to all of you.

here's what i know: 1. i know i don't want wood behind the sink. 2. we have no reason to ditch our perfectly functional sink. 3. yes, i learned after posting that our sink isn't flush-mounted at all; if it were, it would be flush with the countertop. duh! but i didn't know it was called "self-rimming", so thanks. 4. i don't care for the look of undermount sinks or apron sinks. mostly i am just tired of that look.

i have thought about rimming the sink with something happy with water (tile? what?), and only using the butcher block under the cabinets, but i'm pretty sure that would look stupid. it's a small space and breaking it up visually doesn't make sense.

ironwood builders, do you have a suggestion? you're right, moving the sink back is cuckoo--especially since it's already difficult to clean behind the faucets, much less the whole plumbing hoopla.

i am not adverse to a man-made countertop in white; ours is just SO plastic-looking, and i hate the gray marble backsplash.

There are sinks that have a backsplash built right in them... I used to have an antique one w/drainboards too... but you can find new ones too... maybe you can find one to fit in the same sink hole?
http://www.vintagetub.com/whitehaus-countryhaus-drop-in-utility-sink-whcw3022-8-white.html?utm_id=IDAXX&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4LaqBRD60pfSn43ZwLQBEiQAJv5FLCNFc6kVT9oUO0X_zAsGqpmMmokQsc7pkp2rhJLRaPQaAjgf8P8HAQ

that's a handsome sink! at this point, however, we need to keep the sink we have. it is actually quite functional for our needs; it has 3 sink areas, and i love having the sprayer. it's not the most beautiful thing, i know, but it's better than the plastic-y countertops.

The part of our counters that take the most beating from water, are the 6-8" on either side of the sink. The rest of our tops are totally fine though :) So I don't know if I'd scratch the whole idea. Our tops are probably 7 years old, and we'll most likely replace the section around the sink in the next few years and leave the rest.

Sorry I rained on your parade! Just that facts are facts... Your current countertop looks to be about 8' of pre-formed laminate. Ultimately the least expensive counter top material. There are loads of other materials possible and some are less costly than the butcher block you planned on. Search the photo caches of Houzz for counter tops in other materials...concrete, metal, tile or stone...then look at some of the wilder stuff like recycled paper. There is a company that specializes in overlaying your existing counters with a thin layer of man-made stone veneer. Granite Transformations is the company. It's not bad for the price.

no, no, it's fine! i completely understand the whole deal of water/wood, as i've worked in kitchens and sold kitchenwares for years, and you are right. i am just trying to think of a win/win thing, such as jhmarie suggests--using two materials to accomplish the look. the thing is that when you look at my photo? that's all the counter space we've got! i have a cheap kitchen cart with butcher block top that serves as another surface, but that's it. i will look at your suggestions and try to figure this out.

thanks to everyone for your input.

Hello

I agree that using 2 materials will be better in the long run and there are many nice options that will still give your the look you desire.

I think with the edge you have all around your sink, you should be ok. I would not push back the sink. This could cause back pain.

omg, you're right! i abhor pain.

How about soapstone with bead board instead?

How about a stainless steel surround just for the sink area. The rest can be butcher block.

Poor alicope.... But I think you have your answer, sigh. Find a solid surface top in a color you like and love your wood-top cart.
One other caution about bead board backsplash - it's sometimes hard to clean goo out of the grooves. And since that's such a workhorse of an area, it probably sees lots of flying goo.
Gosh, we're really raining on your parade, aren't we?
Adorable kitchen though, fabulous sink and I love you sticking to something that is functional and not simply dumping it for style's sake.

I have had beadboard back splash and had not problems with it... loved it and the look! One does need to keep it clean but??? It seems like it would look great for your home. Wood counters have there own set of issues. There is NOTHING perfect unfortunately, it's always give n take... sighs...
I too am at the point of trying to decide counters... almost back to laminate...

I understand you don't want a new sink. I am saving up for one myself - hopefully next year. I saw this photo and thought of your problem - I think it has been mentioned before - the old long cast iron sinks with the built in drain sides. A friend of mine used a refinished one in remodeling her victorian kitchen.

Someone here want to make a fortune and develop a new style of that sink - maybe in stainless?

You can get a SS sink w/backsplash... lots of models available. I used to have an old one like above... loved it!

Your only solution is to find a new sink with an integrated backsplash, either in stainless steel or porcelain. I personally love the look because you have the opportunity to use a farmhouse style sink and possibly have a wall mounted faucet (depending on the type of sink). It would be a really nice feature in the kitchen:

Its a kitchen sink. There will be water. Consider solid surface tops and forget about the bead board backsplash. The backsplash will be tiny anyway so not much of a statement. Run whatever top you use up the walls. Crisis averted?

SHE DOESN'T WANT A NEW SINK!!!!

LOL! kmkane! i am adopting you, and praise you for being a good listener.

everyone is giving me solid advice, but no, we won't be getting a new sink. i was briefly intrigued by jhmarie's second photo of the sink dropped down below the wood counters, but that ain't happening in our place--the sink's already low enough.

suzyq53 has a point--using one surface for counter and wall. i'm open.

all righty, phase two of questioning: tell me about ZINC. who's got zinc countertops? i know it's a soft metal; i don't much care about dings or staining, unless they're irrevocable issues.

here is a better view of the whole kitchen-kaboodle, so you can see how much (i.e., little) space we're talking about, and so you can see our 'style', lol (pretend the floor is black and white checkerboard asphalt tiles):

I don't know if this will be enough to protect your butcher block from water. Maybe experts can give their opinions. Scroll down a bit on this link:

http://www.wikihow.com/Protect-a-Wood-Countertop

yeah, suzyq and I are in synch today. Coffee anyone? I think she's right about the backsplash, it will be diminished because it's rather short under the window, and covered by the appliances to the left and right of the sink. Another problem I just thought of - when sealing the seam between the counter and the beadboard, the grooves will present another small problem, and you need a good seam at the back of the sink. So a solid backsplash might be a better idea.

Your kitchen is a good candidate for beadboard, but there isn't much room for it. Perhaps on the back and side of the rolling cart?

I know nothing about zinc, except it's soft as all get out. A quick class at Google University taught me this though: http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/zinc-countertops-pros-cons/ Yikes!

Ok...now that you're moving to another countertop material... I'll put my two cents in. If you're not changing to butcher block which I assumed was a decision made for function (cutting, etc.), break down for me the reason your changing out the countertop. I can't tell the condition exactly from the pictures but (don't anyone throw anything at me) what's wrong with your current one?

I know it is not trendy and is thought of as the "white trash" of the kitchen design world, but I happen to like laminates. There are some beautiful ones out there now; they can be edged to look like almost anything; and they won't break my glassware when I invariably knock them over on the counter. Using a cutting board keeps laminates from getting scratched and they hold up really well. Much easier on the pocketbook as well. So back to my question, why are you changing?

i think butcher block countertops look beautiful and would be fitting for the look in our funky little kitchen. my husband and i will be empty-nesters this fall, and i am the only one who uses the kitchen, so i feel i could adequately care for the wood. suzanne_m, i read the butcher block info. thanks. i wouldn't seal the wood, however. i think you're just asking for trouble there, as the wood needs to breathe. the rest of the advice is sound. kmkane, thanks for the zinc-link! i'm aware of those issues and they don't bother me. i'm all for character, but i'm not all for ruining something from disuse.

current countertop pros:

-the countertop has no seam at the back wall. it curves up, making it simple to wipe water away back there.

-i like white just fine

-it's easy to clean

current countertop cons:

-it looks cheap, cheap, cheap! because it was! was! was! (i am guessing)

-the previous owner cobbled some kind of weird white formica ends on each side of the counter-not sure what's happening there

-the previous owner used it as a cutting board in a number of places: dolts!

current backsplash pros:

-doesn't show dirt

-easy to clean

current backsplash cons:

-even though it's marble, i know that it came from the bathroom stalls at the old school of architecture (where my daddy taught for 36 years), and that's just gross

-it's just an ugly-colored, dark gray marble, not a pretty one, and i don't like it

-it looks like it may be hard to pry off

to assuage my guilt, all discarded materials would be donated to our local habitat for humanity.

Ok...so old and you don't like it. Have you completely ruled out butcher block?

i haven't, but i'd like to hear from Tken34 (TX zone 8a) again, and others, to hear how well theirs have fared over the years. i believe i could care for them, but i don't want to be stupid, either. AND there's the initial question i had in the first place: what about wood behind the faucets? i am able to mop up there, but it's not easy to get to.

maybe i need new faucets that are easier to clean behind!

if not butcher block, another plain white surface would be fine, just not something smacking of the 1980's like the current one. i do like the idea of zinc, because it's an old-fashioned surface, but i'm not keen on introducing dark grey again...i need to get away from the computer for awhile. excuse me, and thanks for all the help, y'all.

You know, when I really want something, and I'm driven (call me obsessed) and it won't cost a fortune (for me) I get it. Done deal. Nothing gets in my way. I don't care what anyone says. Even if I know well and good what I'm doing isn't the best, or is even downright wrong, if I want it, I get it.

Case in point. In my new build, which is in a dry rocky area, everyone told me to put tile in my entry. I hate tile floors. I put in real oak, finished in place in the rest of the house, and there was no way I was going to put tile in the entry, which I thought would be an eyesore, so I didn't. (I got a nice rug instead)

I also want a wood top for my island. OMG everyone is telling me no. It will scratch, it will discolor, it will burn, it's hard to take care of, blah blah blah. Well to heck with that. I've found some reclaimed timbers from a 150 year old building and am having a top made from them. So there.

alicope, if you really want a butcher block counter, then get one. You know what the issues are. You know what the downside is. You know what you have to do to keep it in good shape. If it doesn't work, then so what. Take it out and start again in a few years. Heck, you might even get to redesign the whole kitchen by then.

I don't know where your closest Ikea is, but their butcher block counter tops are not very expensive. A 98" countertop is $189. Sure it takes work to remove what you have, cut a hole for the sink, install a new one, etc, but if you really want it, it's worth a try.

http://theinspiredroom.net/2012/01/23/cherry-hardwood-kitchen-countertops-pros-cons-faq/

http://www.countertopguides.com/guides/pros-and-cons-of-wood-countertops.html

Poor alicope - too much advise. I just got home to find the added pictures of your cutie pie kitchen. Obviously you should get whatever you want, that's the point.

Your counter-top and backsplash are really small so no matter what you get it won't be really expensive. Unless you can find a remnant, stone slab is probably not going to be on option, because you don't want to buy an entire slab.

But sometimes if you can use smaller pieces, which you can, you can get great deals on precut soapstone tops. Mia is right, they would look great in your space and have the unique timeless vibe you're going for. Don't freak out, but that stone looks grey at first, but over time, you keep putting mineral oil on it, it gets almost black with a really beautiful patina. Also, its tough as nails. You would need a cutting board to protect your knives.You could also talk to fabricators in your area and see what other slab remnants they have.

And then there is quartz which comes in tons of options and no maintenance, but like butcher block, it will melt or burn if you put something really hot on it.

So it seems like you would do most of your work on the butcher board island, except washing up, where the wood isn't your best friend. Maybe hard surface by the sink, or even a new laminate butcher board look. The new laminates are much better than they used to be.

Ok, so I took some pics for you. So, this is the most unnatractive section of my countertops ;) It's where I do all of my food prep. So, these tops are I'm going to guess 7 years old, and I'm almost positive the previous owner bought them at IKEA. We haven't sanded them in almost 3 years, and you're supposed to do it twice a year. So this is what has happened. The wood has cracked here, there's a cup ring, and here's a little mold spot because I keep my tea holder here and never clean under it. Here is the section right next to the sink, see its a little dis-colored and needs to be sanded and sealed. So, I guess this is an example of what they could look like if you take average/below average care of them. The tops in the rest of the kitchen look almost perfect.

@Tken34 - so glad you found that article for the OP - I had been going to look for it but have been super busy today.

Yes - go for what you want:) I have a similar faucet and do get many drips behind my drop in cast iron sink just from turning the faucet on and off. So, a faucet with a one handle lift in the front or a pull down faucet may help reduce that - along with being an empty nester.

I agree with kmkane above. Asking here is great... we hear all the options, pros n cons and can take all that into account. We can make adjustments or complete changes we feel are needed. BUT those comments can also verify what we really want and are willing to give a try... 'nothing ventured, nothing gained' or something like that. End the end we know the situation best, our likes best and our habits best... knowing all the above comments... go with what you love and really want and fell up to taking care of and you will most likely be happy!!! At least you will know...

If you do go with the wood all around, how about a touchless faucet so you don't get much water accumulated at the back? I have the Moen and I love it!

omg, y'all are like kitchen shrinks!

it makes so much sense to go with a single-hole faucet if i choose butcher block! i'm not keen on our faucets right now--i love the gooseneck and the sprayer, but the faucets themselves are the major reason it's difficult to get behind there and dry the counter off. plus, they look fake old-style, with their glued-on white plastic bits with H & C on them. so i have chosen this:

it's only $2504!!!

oh. husband reminds me there are holes for the current faucets in the sinktop. duh. but then, sweet man, he says it might be possible to get those little stainless steel saucer cover deals to cover up the holes, if i want the $2504 faucet from waterworks, but he was kind of laughing...

seriously though, i think i will look around for a different faucet system that's easier to clean behind. one step at a time.

also, i have, and use, 7 cutting boards. i also have, and use, lots and lots of those old-fashioned style woven potholders. i don't place hot pots anywhere without using a potholder or trivet. additionally, i don't use the island top to cut on because it has some cheap sealant on it. if i had butcher block countertops, i wouldn't plan on chopping parsley on them. on the other hand, i don't mind the look of a used and loved, working kitchen. not a type A here. in your photos, Tken34 (thanks, by the way), it's the mildew that would bug me the most. hence the water question!

Oh darlin', you want to see a faucet where you don't have any holes in the counter top, with a sprayer, and you can clean the area behind the sink in one fell swoop, at half the price of the Waterworks one? I've had it, loved it and am getting it again. It's the Steam Valve Original pull off spray with 10" swivel spout sold by Jaclo.

http://www.jaclo.com/products/sub_category?cid=123

It's worth every penny, Especially since you are saving your sink and using cost-effective butcher block.

Just what the doctor ordered.

Oh, and you CAN indeed cover the holes with with those round thingies, I've done that too :)

Yep, the mildew can def happen if the tops are wet and you leave something sitting on it so it can't air out. If you take a towel and just quickly wipe down your tops as you're doing dishes etc, you should be good though!

Nice thing about wood is you can always use it in something else. It does not have to go to waste when you want a new kitchen countertop. Shou Sugi Ban that butcher block into a bench!

So many answers. I know this is old, but just in case someone else has a question about the sink and the countertop...I have had maple butcher block counters for almost 40 years. We used to use Watco Danish Oil on them and about 5 years ago we sanded them and used Waterlox. We have a drop in Elkay sink with a drainboard, also 40 years old. The worst area of the countertop was behind the sink. We also have a maple backsplash with subway tile above the 4" high backsplash. When we refinished the counter, I had to really work on the area behind the sink. I even managed to make dips in the wood because I had to sand so much to get black spots out. I ended up filling the wood with wood filler and then I put a poly product on the wood in the back of the sink and and along the backsplash. I do put a towel behind the sink when I am doing the dishes. The area has stayed perfect. Waterlox? Not so in love with the finish. Beautiful when if was first done. Any damage really cannot be fixed. Even though I sanded some and redid some damaged areas, faint areas where the damage was is slightly visible. Anything bleach, including Oxiclean will take the finish off. I still love the counters and would put them in again. I might try another finish though.