Your sink(s) must be reinstalled and soon.

It must be disconnected, the sink flange and bottom of the top cleaned, siliconed, and positioned with a bar clamp run through the drain hole supported by a 2x4 across the deck. Install a Hercules Universal Sink Harness or Sink Strap, remove the bar clamp, and reconnect the sink.

Some of this

And some new silicone is all that is needed to fix it up. Removing the old silicone first will be the real chore. Oh ya. You will need four screws as well. Typically the first two straps get set and then they are wrapped under the sink to holt it tight to the stone while the silicone sets up.

So easy.

Metal strapping is not comparable to a HUSH, especially for a DIYer. There is no way to easily mechanically tighten the strapping.

I think John was being a smart alec , Joseph.

I would use a screw driver to tighten the screws myself. Like this. Turning the screws clockwise or right makes them tighter and turning them the other way loosens them up.

A hand powered one not powered. If the strap is still a little slake you can use a shim between the sink and the strapping. I would think any homeowner or DIYer is skilled enough to do this job. I find I can hold the sink with one hand and drive the screw with the other. The pipe clamp can get in the way I find.

I looked up the Hush strap here: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2694143/pretty-sure-undermount-sink-is-coming-down to see how completely different it is and can not see any real difference other than my way looks stronger. Most likely installs faster and should be a lot cheaper.

Hi:

Ok, I had no idea on how the under mount sinks were installed and the problem with it dropping.

It wasn't obvious to me if the sink had dropped to cause the gap, I actually thought it was installed this way. If my sink did in fact drop, wouldn't that affect the drain piping? I didn't notice anything changing to make me believe the sink dropped.

I'll crawl under neath and try to get some pictures and report back.

Thanks for the help.

Sorry John, I thought you were being cheeky with that plumbing strapping.

Didn't see your 2nd pic first go round .

Gotta install that hardwood blocking first , for it to work yes?

I took photos of how my sink was installed. I crawled directly underneath and snapped some photos looking up. Looks like the top layer is granite, then below granite is plywood. So unless I put spacers on the side supports, I will always have a gap which looks like they tried to fill with caulk. Input on this installation and ways to remedy.

Unscrew the plywood cleats, drop the sink, and install the HUSH.

Thanks for the help. The other thing I would like to know, is this installation is considered sloppy? Wrong?

Thanks!!

There is no right way. You use the materials that do the job. You need to drop the sink to remove the silicone first. Clean that up and then install it any way you like.

Your not building a piano- your supporting a sink until the silicone sets up.

"Your not building a piano- your supporting a sink until the silicone sets up."

This implies that the adhesive power of silicone is adequate to support a sink. It is not. I've repaired over 30 failed sinks where someone thought mechanical fastening of sinks was unnecessary or it was inadequate. Undermount sinks must be mechanically fastened, no exceptions.

I agree with Joseph. I would not feel comfortable knowing my sink was help up in place only via glue, especially to a stone type surface.

My ct.r claims he remedied the problem but I need to get specifics but I have a feeling my contractor may have just filled the gap with more caulk. As I said earlier, when I looked in the corner on the sink side, I could see a gap all around the sink. I told him I didn't want him to just fill that gap with caulk due to the size and not being a good long term solution.

But your sink doesn't look like it's just being held up by glue. Isn't the sink resting on those two pieces of wood along the sides (cleats as Joe called them). Aren't those holding up the sink? How large is the sink anyway?

Yes, the sink will not fall because the two side cleats are holding it up but the issue was the water spilling over between the sink flange and granite. Although the cleats are there, I believe the flange is not being pressed up against the granite. Maybe my ctr could of shimmed the cleats so it would press the sink flange to the granite. But I think the ctr may have filled the gap with more caulk to prevent water from spilling over as his fix. I'm trying to find out. So this may turn into a fight about what is the correct remedy.

Thanks.

"....So this may turn into a fight about what is the correct remedy...."

Really. You are going to have to fight your contractor on a proper repair method? That is so odd. In jobs like this my clients ask me. "John can you re-set my sink?". I say "Yes" And then I re-set the sink.

This is not rocket science. No space Shuttle Planning. We are talking about dropping a sink and re setting it.

The quality of work could also stem from what your expectations are for on price. Do you want the $25.00 fix or the $250.00 fix? What did you discuss on the price?

I have never gone back to re-set a sink where we have used straps and silicone. Not once. I have ripped out silly little clips. Blocks of wood. Maybe in my whole life repaired 4 sinks that where failing. Most likely installed 15-30 sinks the way I show above. Learned the process from my stone guys that use it everyday.

If your doors under the sink have a piece of wood in the middle then you can put a 2x1 piece of wood on the backside that you can't see just make sure the screw size is not big to go through the front. First push ur sink up so there is no gap.

Silicone will be temporary because the problem you are having is that the sinks bows in the middle which means it's 18 gauge especially if it was a free sink. 16 gauge is better even though the number is smaller but anyway, the wood up front will take care of it then you can also add silicone. Wait a day then you can test it.

It's common problem sometimes the disposal and heavy pots will make the sink bend but it's really easy to fix.

"Wait a day then you can test it.
It's common problem sometimes the disposal and heavy pots will make the sink bend but it's really easy to fix."

A kitchen sink installed with silicone and a HUSH is ready for immediate hook-up and use. No waiting. No sagging no matter the sink gauge or pot or disposal weight.

Aren't we talking about a bathroom sink....how big can it possibly be?

jerzeegirl:

We are talking about a bathroom sink. Granite Countertops by Mogastone brought up disposals.

John,

I wish I lived in a world where the contractors would openly admit to their mistakes/bad-practices/haste/short-cuts but I'm not that lucky. The thing about this situation, this is probably how my ctr does all his counter/stone installations so in his mind there isn't a mistake. Actually, had he done a nice job of caulking it in the first place, I wouldn't have any issues to flag and I wouldn't have learned about how undermount sinks were installed so I wouldn't notice anything with how it was installed.

Update:

My ctr went ahead and filled the gap with caulking. I wasn't home so I couldn't stop him. We're at the tail end of a major home renovation so this sink issue was one of the punch list items my ctr was taking care of. So he thinks filling the gap with caulk is a good solution. We are meeting tomorrow to discuss, which I am going to tell him it needs to be reset with HUSH or equivalent support. I did my research and looked at the sink installation guide and it clearly shows the flange pressing up against the granite. They recommend clips mounted to the granite but I don't like that method, I like the HUSH for this scenario. Had I known what I know now in the beginning, I would of insisted on Sink Setter.

Hush? Never used it in 15 years of installing granite. We do about 600 kitchens a year and there our no problem using sink clips then wood if it is required. Make sure you do not use caulking,that is for trim, windows,and molding because it is paintable. Caulking will hold the sink but not for long .You have to use 100% silicone that is for moisture and mold proof, also it is flexible and won't create gaps if the house moves during different seasons. If you use 100 % clear silicone on the interior and liquid nail on the exterior rim (two rings), add to that sink clips where they can fit and wood in the middle with screws, then There is now way that sink will fall.

I am not saying one thing is better then the other because there are a lot of ways to attach a sink to countertops. There are a lot of new products that are not tested for long duration. This method works for us. We have lifetime warranty so if this didn't work we would be on the road just fixing things all day.

Mogastone, if you think that just because you don't get a call back means there isn't a problem, then you are sadly mistaken. I had 2 sinks fall (1 bathroom and 1 kitchen) that were installed with clips that had screw anchors epoxied into the stone, and 100% silicone. I did not call back either installer, but instead fixed them myself. I'm sure both of those installers, just like you, think that they did a perfect install that is still in good shape. Most everybody I know that has problems like this (for all sorts of issues, not just sinks and counter tops) has it taken care of without bothering to call back the original installer.

So to everybody who says "I've never had a problem with the way I do things, in all the years I've been doing it", you are most likely wrong about that. You just haven't been made aware of the problems.

Liquid. Freaking. Nails. Where'd you learn that hack? Never heard of MIA?

I am here to help not to argue and not for you to tell me I don't know what I am talking about. I have done thousands of these installations I don't make mistakes. Hush system sounds like a cheap scam people who have never installed recommend.

OK, then you're not a MIA member. Why not? What industry standards do you follow if you don't follow MIA standards? What industry certifications does your company hold?

Hey Mogastone - are you using the Liquid Nails to double down the bite on the wood to wood connection? I think many people prefer the low VOC products over a smelly construction adhesives. Perhaps your fans here are assuming you are using it in the connection where the sink meets the slab beneath and that might see water from the sink side.

I however, think you are using it as a another faster on your wood to wood connection. Like a permeant brace. Am I right? You should try the strong tie method one day. I bet you will like it. Then you need only fasten down two screws while being under the sink. Easier on the ABS that way! :)

our undermount scobro sinks see 100% silicone and clips. if stone top? threaded lead ferrels epoxied in for clips. I was told that is the only way ? there is no other possible method.....LOL

Now you are just showing off Tundra! :) lol. Nice piece of wood you have there.

I would have used my straps on that as well. Made less of a mess too....... hahaha

"I am here to help not to argue and not for you to tell me I don't know what I am talking about. I have done thousands of these installations I don't make mistakes. Hush system sounds like a cheap scam people who have never installed recommend."

GCM:

Your contention that the HUSH "sounds like a cheap scam people who have never installed recommend" is the logical fallacy of relevance, ad hominem circumstantial to be specific. You must address the argument, not the circumstances (never installed) of your interlocutor.

Although it's completely irrelevant, I'm a Certified Corian Fabricator and Installer. an Authorized Zodiaq Installer, a warranty agent for major manufacturers, a columnist, and consultant in addition to performing failed sink repairs repeatedly without callbacks.

I run into your wood block type messes repeatedly and have to hope I can back out the drywall screws and beat the cleats off so I don't have to pull the dishwasher to get the failed sink out. You "don't make mistakes" types forget that sinks sometimes have to be replaced. If they are installed with a HUSH, this is simple and fast. If wood blocks, construction adhesive and whatnot were used, no telling how long it may take.

.......and the possibility of breaking the slab itself while trying to force off those glued blocks.

I was trying to offer an alternative way people can reattach a sink if they don't have access to any particular system. The way I do it you can find all you need at Home Depot. Silicone and the clips the sink come with is usually enough.

I think all systems can work and fail in the end it's all up to the employee or homeowner that is doing the work, not how good the theory or how big the company is.