Where are you located, what is your current soil pH and why did you add gypsum in the first place? And what kind of gypsum were you planning to add now - chemically pure calciitic gypsum or mined gypsum that includes dolomite??

located in Canada about 50 miles north of Grand Forks. PH was 7.8 2 years ago when I had the test done. Gypsum was recommended from Midwest Labs. I didn't even realize that there were more than 1 kind of gypsum but was told that it would free up some locked up nutrients?

Do you know what your pH is now? I have no idea why gypsum was suggested to free up nutrient availability. It doesn't exactly do that. Soils with too high a pH generally are not very free with nutrient availability but gypsum has minimal to no impact on pH. Generally it is suggested to desalinify soils, aid in flocculation of sodic soils and also be a source of both calcium and sulfur. But the sulfur in gypsum is already oxidized so has no impact on lowering pH.

Before suggesting you need to add more - which I doubt - I'd recommend you have another soil test performed. That will give you a clear understanding of what the soil situation looks like NOW with regards to pH, current OM levels and the need for any other specific nutrients. Based on the results from the previous tests, it looks like Ca levels are more than adequate. And if one worries about the Ca/Mg ratio (which is almost always an unnecessary worry), that is pretty much spot on as well, right about in the midpoint where it should be.

Here is the soil test results and recommendations from 2 years ago.

That's a pretty rudimentary soil test.....doesn't tell you much. I'd suspect the recommendation for gypsum was to lower pH (which is too high) as it was give as an alternative to elemental sulfur. But gypsum really has no influence on pH one way or the other.

Is this just a lawn area you are dealing with? Get your pH tested for current levels. If still above 7, you do need to add some sulfur. But the gypsum is unnecessary. And the sulfur can come from ordinary fertilizer, like ammonium sulfate (although that is not considered an organic fertilizer if you are following organic methodology).

Most likely the gypsum, Calcium Sulfate, was recommended to get the Magnesium to Calcium ratio closer to what some test labs think it should be. The lab should have recommended an amount of gypsum to apply.

kimmq is kimmsr

The lab DID suggest an amount of gypsum to add. And the Mg to Ca ratio is exactly what it should be. Any other wise thoughts ??

Looks to me that with the Magnesium at very high levels and Calcium at medium levels they are reversed since one would want more Ca. than Mg. even though the numbers indicate that.

kimmq is kimmsr

With Ca at 4868 ppm and Mg at 1468 ppm, the Ca:Mg ratio is approximately 4:1 (actually 3.79:1). Which is right in the ballpark of where it should be.

Albrecht wrote that the ratio of Calcium to Magnesium should be around 7 to 1.

Kimmq is kimmsr

The PH is the #1 issue, that needs to come down. However, that magnesium level is also very high. I suspect you have been applying dolomite lime freqently, which would raise pH, calcium, but also magnesium. As a result, you have extremly high calcium and magnesium, but even at that levels, the ratio is out of wack.

As kimmq mentioned above, it should be at least 7:1. The range mentioned by Albrecht actually goes 7:1 to 20:1. In order for you to get near that figure without increasing your Ph, the only option is to apply gypsum. It will raise your calcium levels, which will help the ratio, but it will also help flush the magnesium, further improving that ratio. Magnesium causes soil to bind, so I'm guessing you have compaction issues. Fixing your ratio should help with that. Great article below:

Safe Lawns - Calcium