I got lucky and experimented on a sloped bed this year so I'll my stuff is fine. I'd guess that if you plant this late, don't thin them out so they are able to create a canopy and conserve water. That's what I did with my cucumbers this year, and while I have a million cucumbers so far, there hasn't been a day that they've been wilted.

my cuc's, canteloupe and watermelon are just now starting to vine up the trellis so I would say if you bought plants you would be fine, The beans I sowed drowned but some are hanging in there. Tomatoes planted now may struggle to set fruit as we hit the hotter weather. Having said that I just planted a few to replace some the gopher got.

Really though I would replant what ever you want now. You wouldnt be out much and you may still get a decent harvest.

Last year around mid june i planted okra from seed just for the fun of it and before you know it I had more okra than I knew what to do with. I dont even really like okra that much except for fried okra that I can eat like candy.

You can start over now with some things, but I wouldn't plant beans right now. Beans suffer from blossom drop at roughly the same temperatures that tomatoes do, and those temperatures tend to arrive in June, if not earlier. Those sorts of temperatures already have arrived at my house (and likely yours as well). We hit 98 degrees yesterday, and there's not a bean variety that I've ever grown that will set beans once the high temperatures are in the upper 90s and above.

The bush beans I planted in early Spring have produced well and still have a few beans on them that likely set last week. After I harvest those in a couple of days, I'll yank out the bean plants and plant winter squash there so that I can get production out of that section of the garden. My pole beans still are setting new beans (though that may have ended yesterday) at a pretty decent rate so I'll leave them a little longer to see how they do. I am growing a pole bean variety that was bred to tolerate higher temperatures and still set beans, but I think that now we are getting too hot even for it.

If you want another round of beans, it would be better to plant them at the time recommended for a fall crop. I'll link the OSU Fall Garden Planning Guide below and please note that on one page it lists recommended planting dates for the warm-season crops for fall and on the next page it list the recommended planting dates for the cool-season crops for fall. The dates in the fall guide are opposite from the dates in the spring guide, so the earliest dates given are for NW OK and the latest dates for SE OK and everyone in between those two extreme corners of the state should choose a corresponding date from somewhere within that range of dates. I don't always abide by the fall planting dates, but when I deviate, I usually plant later than recommended instead of earlier. Planting fall garden crops earlier than recommended generally means the plants have to struggle through the worst part of the summer which can exhaust them before they even get a chance to produce.

If you were to plant beans now instead of waiting a few more weeks to use the fall planting date, it is doubtful you'd get many, if any, beans to set in the hot temperatures, and the plants would have to endure hot temperatures, intense sunlight and pest attacks, particularly from spider mites. By waiting and planting at the recommended fall date, your bean plants will be fresh and strong with the temperatures fall back into the right temperature range for the blossoms to set beans. You could plant southern peas (pink eye purple hull, black-eyed, zipper, cream or lady peas) now and they'd produce just fine. The heat doesn't have a negative effect on them until your daytime highs are around 108-110.

Cucumbers and okra should do well if planted now. I haven't even planted pickling cukes yet because I don't want to get too bogged down in making pickles before I finish up canning tomatoes and fruit jelly. I'm trying to control the flow of produce into the kitchen with a little later planting of some items. With cucumbers, as long as you keep their soil moist, their roots well-mulched or well-shaded and don't let cukes stay on the plants too long, the plants should produce all summer long. They often produce throughout the summer and deeply into the autumn for me. I haven't planted okra because I didn't plant the back garden at all, and that is where it was meant to go. When I harvest the mid-season corn from the front garden, I'll sow okra seeds there to fill in that space. Late plantings of okra produce great and for a long period of time. In the autumn as the temperatures really begin to fall, the okra plants will slow down their productivity and begin dropping their leaves, but that's usually not until at least late September. You have tons of time left to get okra. It grows amazingly fast in hot weather.

I do not get overly concerned about tomato plants or pepper plants that don't look good after prolonged, heavy rainfall. They are prone to lots of fungal and bacterial diseases that can make the foliage look like crap. The recommended way to deal with that is to remove the diseased foliage and spray with the appropriate treatment for fungal or bacterial infections. Sometimes I do that, and sometimes I just shrug and say "oh well" and let them look like crap (and sometimes the plants eventually die) and keep on harvesting the tomatoes for as long as they last. If you don't think you're looking at a disease issue, try feeding them a complete and balanced fertilizer. Often, extremely heavy rainfall leaches nutrients out of the soil and the plants struggle to recover because their nutrition is poor. If ever there was a year when enough rain fell in a short period of time and leached nutrients out of the soil, May 2015 would be it.

You also can plant new tomato plants (if there's still some healthy suckers on your current plants you can root them to start new plants) for a fall harvest.

We have squash bugs here and I've been killing them with a vengeance but the dreaded SVBs haven't shown up yet, though I'm expecting them to arrive any time now. I also will plant new squash plants for fall after the current plants run out of steam. We are getting lots of summer squash, so even though the plants' color was poor when the rain ended, they are greening up nicely and are blooming and producing.

Ditto on the drying up and the rainfall. Occasional grass fires are already occurring down here, on both the TX and OK sides of the river....in areas that were just flooded for so much of May. It is mind-blowing how quickly the moisture dries up in periods of high temperatures and no rainfall. I've watered selected portions of my garden twice this week, where young plants were planted only after the flooding rains ended and those plants don't have the deep roots yet that they need to get them through the hot weather.

I plant pumpkins and winter squash, often several different rounds of them, any time from May through late July, often using them to fill in empty places in the garden after I harvest all of a crop and remove the plants. I grow Seminole (both the original for many years and now the new larger strain as well) every year. In a year when it is happy, which is probably 9 out of 10 years, it will produce until frost. Most C. moschatas survive attacks by squash bugs and squash vine borers so they often are the last warm-season plant left in the garden, long after all the others have finished up and been replaced by fall garden crops, flowers or a cover crop for winter. I also have grown Old Fashioned Tennessee Vining several times and it does okay here, but in my garden it is not nearly as productive as Seminole.

You also could plant hot-season greens like malabar spinach, Egyptian spinach or New Zealand Spinach. Even Swiss Chard can tolerate hot temperatures if well-watered. In summer I tend to grow it at the shady west end of the garden where it only gets sun until about noon. As long as you can harvesting the outer leaves before they get too big and tough, it keeps putting out new leaves non-stop.

Watermelons, muskmelons, cantaloupes and all the other miscellaneous melons will do just fine if planted now. While it seems late to be planting them, they grow quickly in hot weather as long as they have moist (not sopping wet) soil.

There's tons of time left to get a lot of production out of your garden so don't be afraid to sow seeds and keep the garden full of productive plants. Lots of people harvest only the first round of produce and then give up when the heat arrives. I prefer to keep sowing succession crops of various types in order to keep the entire garden plot in full production to the greatest extent possible.

Dawn

OSU Fall Garden Planning Guide

Fall garden planning...reminds me of the old commercial "Time to make the donuts"

lol. I haven't seen that commercial in a long time.

It is so hot. Our TV meteorologist said we've been running about 8 degrees hotter than average during the day and 4 degrees hotter at night in general in the Texoma region on both sides of the Red River. Well, at our house we've been running about 12 degrees hotter during the day and that kind of heat makes it hard for me to think seriously about planting anything because I don't even want to be outdoors in this heat, much less thinking about starting seeds for fall transplants. My favorite time of the day now is between about 6:30-8:30 a.m. and from about 8-8:30 p.m. because at least then the temperatures aren't so awful. The snakes really are out and about and getting underfoot now, and that can suck the fun out of gardening in a New York minute. I wish we could have a do-over with May----one that would let us be outside more in pleasant temperatures instead of hanging out indoors while it rained endlessly. The early arrival of such extreme heat in June combined with an extra-rainy May makes me feel like I've spent far too much of this gardening season indoors.