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allyson_gray

Should I prune these droopy leaves?

11 years ago

Hi everyone!

A few days ago, I noticed a rather sad-looking snake plant in my father's bedroom and decided to take over to try to nurse it back to health.
As far as I know, he's been neglecting it for a while - it might have gotten rare waterings but not much more care than that. It was in a sorry state when I took it in, with several obviously dead leaves which I promptly took out of the pot. A few others still seemed somewhat alive but were completely soft and looked like they were definitely beyond any help, so I cut them off as well.
I gave it a good watering right after, as it most likely hadn't had a drop of it in quite some time.
It's been spending all of its time up until now near the space pictured in the photo, though it used to be placed further away from the sliding door. This window/door gets a decent amount of light especially during the afternoon, but the plant was partway behind the white screen that is visible on the left - it does let some light through, but not that much. I figured that might not be enough for the plant to thrive so I've put it right in front of the glass door for the past few days (it hasn't been very sunny anyway, though!)

Now that I took care of the dead and shriveled leaves, I would really appreciate some advice regarding what to do with the remaining ones (and any other information about what I may be doing right or wrong, and how to proceed from here). A few of the leaves still look perfectly healthy (to me, at least) and have no problem standing upright, but others are drooping and feel soft, and I wonder if it might be too late for them even though they don't look too bad yet.

What do you guys think? Should I cut off the drooping leaves? I don't want to give the plant too much of a shock especially since I already cut off a few, but I'm afraid that leaving them on will just be harmful to its recovery.



Comments (11)

  • 11 years ago

    Sansevieria like bright, indirect light so putting it right in front of the glass door is not going to help. Sometimes leaves start to tip over as the new center growth pushes everything outward. I wouldn't remove any more leaves unless they are mushy, yellowing unnaturally, or turning brown. Here is a helpful article on - How to Care for Sansevieria Plant - including watering needs, which is very little. Hope this helps!!


  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    If possible repot that into a smaller pot. The container looks much too big for the plant. Ideally you want a pot that is about 2 inches wider than the root ball. Anything bigger and the plant has trouble using up the water in the soil, hence stays damp way too long. Use a fast draining mix and a clay pot (unglazed), though any pot (plastic or glazed terracotta) will work. Unglazed terracotta allows the moisture to evaporate and the soil to breath just a little better. Don't put a layer of stones in the bottom "for drainage", it DOES NOT WORK but rather makes it worse. Indoor full sun is no problem, out doors the plant will get a washed out yellowish color to the leaves, but will be OK. Introducing a plant to direct sun light requires acclimatization, as the plant will get sun burn just as you or I will. Bright indirect light is the ideal lighting for the plant, but it will (once it gets used to it slowly) take sun. This plant will tolerate being lightly moist in summer but in winter it should be kept dry and watered only enough to keep it from shriveling.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Tiffany, I must not be seeing what you are seeing. I see a plant in the middle of a dirt filled square pot with several inches around the plant (say 4 inches maybe more.) I would like a little less real estate for better root health. I'm with you on the cactus mix (I add some perlite to mine).

  • 11 years ago

    That looks like a good amount of space around the edges for pups to be able to form easily. If using something more chunky/porous/airy than potting soil, root rot becomes a negligible concern, unless you're a seriously dedicated overwaterer. If roots aren't rotting, pot size is irrelevant except when it's so small plants can't grow normally.


  • 11 years ago

    Thanks Tiffany, my comments are based on store bought potting media
    not the advocated 511 or gritty.
    Fred


  • 11 years ago

    I don't use that either. Not out of pessimism, I'd love to, but I'd have to spend more than I have, and either drive to faraway locations or order stuff online. For those who have the means & access to components, I would recommend that to those who are interested.

    The point I wanted to emphasize to you & whoever else might read is that it's so much easier to change the soil than try to be clairvoyant about the moisture inside a pot or compensate for the destructive properties of "potting soil." There's multiple ways to accomplish that, especially if you're able/willing to repot fairly often, every year or two.

    Yes, Sans can rot easily if there is only moisture w/o oxygen, but they are not cacti. What I've seen is that the more moist they can stay w/o rotting, the faster they will grow (assuming there's not insufficient light.) Especially for Sans, but for any potted plant (that doesn't actually prefer to just be dry most of the time - those are so easy, just let 'em dry.) Then we can let old wives' tales about "likes to be rootbound" and "allow to dry completely" rest in peace. All of my plants are in the same stuff, from cacti to Coleus.

  • 11 years ago

    Hi again and thanks to everyone for all the responses!

    Maybe I should have clarified this in my first post - the window gets some pretty bright light but not direct light (the balcony above ours blocks the sun from directly hitting the plant), so I don't think that will be a problem.
    Thank you for the link! I'll try to follow the adivce that's on there. I did read a bit about sansevieria when I inherited this one, I think I get the gist of it. I'm especially careful not to overwater, though I have a bit of trouble telling when I should do it again as I can't really tell whether the roots are dry without digging pretty deep and moving some leaves around, which I'm still nervous to do as I don't want to harm the plant any further.

    Regarding pot size, is this one fine after all, then? I'm really not sure what's inside the pot - it feels lighter than the potting mixes I use for my other plants but it's probably not the specialized stuff that you guys recommended. Is regular potting soil really so bad if you don't water too often?

    I'll keep all these leaves on if you don't think they'll be a problem. Should I expect them to stay bent forever, or is it possible that they'll perk back up?

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Allyson,
    Tiffany's comments are good ones. I don't use the special mixes advocated by many on this site. Not that I don't believe in the stuff but for the same seasons Tiffany does not. Some time I will give it a try. Having said this, I think you will be fine with a cactus mix, especially if you add perlite or such. If you have just one to 6 plants, making your own soil is a lot of trouble. Sansevieria are tough. The thing that gets them is wet and cold. They handle moisture much better in summer when they are growing and using water up. Oh, if you don't have a cactus mix; just add more perlite.

    As for pot size? Is that a square pot? The soil (from what I can see) doesn't seam evenly moist. Or is that a trick of the camera like the spectral cat (who's left side fades into the pot)? Does the soil have a lot of big pieces in it? No matter I would follow Tiffany's advise. Is there a small pup starting to come up on the right hand side? If the plant is spreading to the sides of the pot as this seams to indicated then perhaps you do need that size pot. I keep mine in pots a few inches larger than the root ball. I tend to put Sans. in clay pots (unglazed).
    Hope this helps.

    Tiffany, thank you for your comments too.
    Fred

  • 11 years ago

    TY. "The thing that gets them is wet and cold." Well said!

    "Feels lighter" sounds good. A dense, moisture-retentive soil is heavy for the same volume, like you said. My budget dictates that the specialized stuff I use is either winging it
    by mixing up compost from the yard, stealing a little aged mulch from a
    flower bed, or buying bags that say cactus/palm soil instead of potting
    soil. But no matter what the writing says, if it's a giant bag that I can pick up w/o help, I know it's going to be better. I'd never be able to heft a giant bag of potting soil (assuming you also shop where these things are outside, moist from getting rained on.)

    "Is regular potting soil really so bad if you don't water too often?" Not watering often is the method for coping with soils one fears might rot the roots if moist constantly. There is no requirement for forcing plants to grow as fast as they can, and this is a fine technique that many have mad skills at. I never could catch on, I like to water plants. You can get started in the right direction with a pot of any stuff by leaving it fluffy, not packed down, watering gently so it doesn't compact later.

    Any pot that's not too big to pick up can also be "weighed" to see if it feels lighter yet, than right after it was watered.

    I haven't seen bent leaves straighten, but curious to hear what others have to say about that too. Some people stake them. Either way, no individual leaf actually lasts forever. If/when you decide you'd enjoy looking at it more without 1 or more of its' leaves, you can cut them off & use them to make more plants, lots of discussions & pics about that here. That's fun too.

    If everybody did everything the same way, there would be 1 thin book,
    and nothing for us to talk about. You'll find what work for you, which could be different than what works for me or someone else.

  • 11 years ago

    How are things going with your Sans, Allyson? Well, I hope!

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