I though this forum had a FAQ section that outlined the basics but apparently it went missing when Houzz took over. Oh well..........check out the attached links. The first one is an overview of basic lawn maintenance and it focuses on more of an organic approach. I have no arguments with any of its suggestions :-) The second one (both from the same source) is specific to organic lawn care and discusses natural/organic practices and products including fertilizers and pesticides. As to fertilizers, there's many different types you can use - packaged organic lawn fertilizers, seed meals (soy, corn gluten, cottonseed, alfalfa) or just mulch mowing and/or compost.
Lawn Care Basics

Organic Lawn Care

These should get you started. Come back if you have more questions or need clarification on what you've read.

To an organic grower the soil is the single most important part of the equation whether you are caring for a lawn or a vegetable or flower garden, so start your program with a good reliable soil test from your Rutgers Cooperative Extension Service. These simple soil tests may also be of some help,

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

Most lawns will grow best with a soil pH in the 6.2 to 6.8 range and many states today require a good reliable soil test if the "fertilizer" contains Phosphorus.

kimmq is kimmsr

I wrote this FAQ about 10 years ago. It was posted here as well as a few other lawn care forums and has been downloaded tens of thousands of times. It needs a tune up as I have learned some things over the years, but it's the basics of what many (thousands??) have used to get started.