Things like model numbers, e.g. 917.XXXXX would be nice to have some idea what we're talking about. If you're talking about the electric PTO, they "usually" want about .010" air gap, so when they're not engaged the engine can turn, when you apply 12V, it engages. Or are you talking about the nut that attaches the clutch assembly to the crankshaft? What "power drive belt" are you referring to, the one that goes to the trans. or the one that drives the deck.

Google electric PTO, lawn mower and there's info out there.

Thank you for responding! The model is 917276022. Craftsman 5000.

We beleive that our solder job on the electric clutch is not sufficient. The wire was worn bare and had started to fray. Everyone we have read online and watched (bad) videos recommends it seems to drop the clutch but we can't get the bolt to budge without everything spinning. Somewhere we read to hold the nut on top on the flywheel and then proceed to take the clutch bolt off. This requires more than 3 hands and we have run out of expletives.

The belt that we put on goes to the trannie. That part fixed what we thought was a dead machine. Now it goes forward and back like new but the mower won't mow. We are hoping it is electric and that a better connection will let it work. Thoughts and comments are generously appreciated.

We are only mechanical under duress.

You're probably going to have to replace the clutch, get the part number from your manual and google ayp "part no." and you'll see various places that sell it, probably most of them will be cheaper than Sears. :-)

To remove that nut, an electric or pneumatic impact wrench would be best. If that's not available, you could try removing a plug and feeding some quarter inch rope in-keep plenty of rope outside, you don't want to lose it inside the cylinder head. The idea is that when the piston comes up, the rope will jam it against the cylinder head allowing you to remove the nut. Nut removed the clutch should slip off.

You might consider having someone do this in order to cut your losses. Damaging a clutch while replacing a ground drive belt is pretty difficult to do.

Next time, disconnect mower drive belt, may have to drop mower to do that. Lock brake down, that should allow sufficient slack to replace the belt. Some guides may have to be loosened then readjusted afterwards.

Good luck,

Ev

When doing the "rope trick" IF the engine is an overhead valve engine, make sure the piston is well up on the compression stroke so valves are closed before feeding in the rope you may damage the valves or valve components.

To check out your clutch, use jumpers directly to the clutch leads, bare wires if necessary as close to the clutch body as possible. IF you get a strong click of the clutch engaging, all is not lost. Do a good solder splice job or correct whatever is keeping current from the clutch. IF no click, then you probably have pulled the wires loose inside the clutch body or coil winding. Good luck,

Walt Conner

Thank you to both of you...it's a new day and a rainy one. Good day to stay dry in the garage and try and figure this out. I saw that rope trick online and had no idea what they were talking about. Now it makes sense. Who thinks of these things? Walt...when attaching the jumpers which end of the wires? The clutch side ( ridiculously short leads) I think is what your are saying, Never hurts to be sure.

There will be 2 leads from the clutch, doesn't mater which one you connect the positive to, connect the ground to the other. There is just a simple DC magnetic coil in there which doesn't care which is positive and which is negative as long as they not connected to the same one.

Walt Conner

Thank you Walt we will try!