I bought a larger tree that appears to really be a large cutting, and not rooted, or roots broke, which leaves me in a similar kind of position. I'm not sure what to do, as the leaves seem ok ( but small ), and the tree is making many flowers. I'm thinking I'll let it be and hope for the best, but waiting for it to show signs of being sick doesn't sound fun. Yet messing with it could hurt any roots that do form.

What I have read so far is that it's best not to fuss and to generally leave it alone while rooting, as your can break new roots trying to form, but I'd love to hear the ideas of a seasoned pro. Like, could some rootone be added to the soil around the base to discourage rot or etc.

Dave,

You're correct, it's not root rot.. its 'base of the cutting' rot. It's difficult to see as its covered in rooting hormone, but the bottom 1-2 inches is slightly squishy. I watched something on youtube that suggested clipping the rot off, dipping in fungicide/root-tone, and re-planting right away. As I was under the impression that plumeria cuttings need to scab for 2 weeks or so before planting, I was looking for second opinion. Here is my question: Do you think it better to cut away the rot and allow the base to scab, OR cut and replant right away? Thank you so much!

I can't really see the base of the cutting because of the powder. So it's hard to tell. Does it look/feel like any of the tissue is dying? Or is it just somewhat soft? How about further up the cutting? Same softness or markedly different?

Has it been kept dry since you started it? Has it been warm? You don't say where you live or the origins of the cutting. How long did you let it callus before planting it?

It is just the bottom 1 inch that feels like dead tissue. I just broke off a bit off the bottom and there is white/ grey powdery substance pouring out and a black rim on the inner wall of the stock. The top 5 inches feels firm and as I originally got it. I am in zone 9 coastal CA and the cutting originated from a friend's thriving tree. The past 2 months were very foggy/ overcast and I think I may have overwatered. The soil seemed very dry. I believe the plant calloused for 4 weeks.

Curious, if it is rotting on the bottom of the stalk, is this something the plant can ever recover from if left alone, or is a fresh cut always the way to go? (I'm watching mine, and I'm convinced its never had roots. So it's either unrooted or could possibly have this issue, yet I don't want to mess with it too much as checking could end up breaking roots, should any start. Mine does also have leaves and flowers and otherwise looks healthy (obtusa/singapore)) (Talk about a big cutting)

It came cleanly out of pot in transit. Bottom was dark but I wasnt smart enough to feel for rot when replanting. No evidence of roots found in put when repotting)

Here is the image of the inside of the stock after scraping off a bit of the rotted portion. The inner dusty portion is actually a light grey color inside the blackened margin.

Well it probably is not good. But I can't say for sure.

Why don't you start from a fresh cutting since you have access to the tree?

Then you can try to recut the old cutting, removing as far up as you see rotted tissue. Let sit for a week or 2 and try again. Use dryer rooting soil this time.

Say chop of the rotten part and try again. It is okay for it to be on the dry side if it is overcast. I only give mine regular watering when it is very sunny and hot. I would get another cutting from your friend as well, just to be safe.

If the bottom is rotten, which it is....then always cut the bottom. I always cut 1 inch off at a time until I see that it's healthy. If you see any brown keep cutting until it's solid white. Then dip in root hormone and I'd personally go with the bag rooting method. It's really easy and you can find videos on YouTube to teach you the process. With bag rooting you can see the roots and you don't have to guess....plus you only use about two handfuls of coconut husk and a pleated sandwich bag. Your cutting looks like it will be a red or darker flower based off the beginning leaves, unless that is black tip on the leaves. If you go with the bag rooting method then put it somewhere that gets a lot of humidity but not in direct sunlight. Mayne the porch with an overhang? Good luck but I think you can probably save your cutting as long as you can cut it and see solid white with no browning.

I don't live in a very humid area. Do you think sticking it in a clear plastic water bottle would suffice (so I could spritz it with water from holes in the bottom)? Also, I cut off the rotten part. Is there normally a white core ring in the branch? Or does this mean I need to keep cutting. Someone recommended that I cut off the leaves to keep the energy on the root development. Too much trauma to the plant, or good idea?? thank you

I would keep the leaves. That may cause more stress.

olly805 you should always see a ring when making a cut on any part of a plumeria, just make sure the ring is white and doesn't have any brown. Also I always cut off the leaves. You want the plant to put it's energy towards root development. The only leaves that you should keep would be the smallest leaves coming out of the tip of the cutting...these are normally half inch to an inch long. This will give the cutting enough to still develop leaves but it won't put it energy into already existing leaves.

Also once you put the cutting in the clear bottle you shouldn't have to keep straying it with water. I've personally never used the water bottle method so I'm no expert but with cuttings you normally start off with damp soil and then you don't water again until you see leaves about 4-6 inches long....and even then water lightly. Hopefully someone else can chime in that has experience with the water bottle method.

Good luck

Also make sure you let it callus before you plant it. I like to make a fresh cut and then barely dip the end in root hormone. Then i brush way some of the extra root hormone so its not clumped up at the end where i cut it. Basically lightly dust the end with hormone. Then place in perlite for at least a week until I see it has a good callus. I'm sure other members callus theirs differently but this works well for me.

By the way, what color is the mother plant? I was thinking it was red or a dark pink based of the small leaves in your pic....just wondering.