I live in coastal Southern California, and the average July range is 74 (high) to 64 (low), and in January, the range is from 65 (high) to 50 (low), but last January it was 10 to 15 degrees above normal and therefore was no different from July. There has not been a frost here in the past 65 years, and temperatures below 40 are extremely rare, as are temperatures above 85 degrees, although it got that warm last January. Our winters are warm due to Santa Ana winds, which come down from the mountains and heat up as they compress at lower altitudes. Rain occurs mostly in the winter, although it rained today, and rain occurs in cycles based on El Niño, which happens in irregular cycles, which can be 5 to 10 years. For the past four years, we've had nothing but mild, dry weather with no seasonal change other than length of days. I often forget what month it is.

We get a lot of sun here, especially lately, and so I have to protect a lot of the bromeliads from excessive sun exposure, which is the biggest problem I face, besides having to keep everything watered. There may be some bromeliads that require more heat and humidity than we have, but I am happy to forego those conditions, as they are uncomfortable for me, and I can live with the bromeliads that I am able to grow and have bloom. I also grow orchids outdoors, as well as countless succulents, many of which are native to South Africa, which I think has a similar climate. My climate is also somewhat similar to coastal Tunisia and the Canary Islands.

This is a new plant for me. I picked up 5 of them at the end of summer on sale.

At that time my temps were 70F - 80F I brought them inside for the winter when our temps reached 40F. They stayed in a sunny window all winter and I just kept the cups filled with bottled water all winter.

They are a perfect houseplant. Easier than any plant I have grown over the winter inside. I over winter inside about 50 what is considered houseplants for my climate, approx. 75 succulents, and 20 tropical plants.

I am a zone 6.

Our summer temps are....................

70 -90F from May-September.

Fall 60-40F O.ct. -Nov Winter we are 40F - Minus 10. Nov-April

Hi all, live in coastal, northern, NSW Australia. Climate here like most areas, seems to be changing dramatically each year.

Climate 10years ago used to be wet summers ie December to February Night temps., 15 oC (59 oF) to 25 oC (77 oF) with day temps of 20 oC (68 oF) to 38 oC (100.4 oF), With dry winters, nights temps., 5 to 10 oC with day temps 20 to 25 oC though dry for most of the winter.

This has all changed, last year my lowest temps at night in winter, went down to -5 oC for several nights, while the summer temps went up to 43 oC accompanied by extreme UV levels. Have attached an image of Aechmea zebrina seedlings which grow outside all year round even at -5 oC in winter with not damage at all, while Aechmea chantinii dies here when temps go down to 5 oC (they look almost identical except Ae. zebrina is a larger grower)

Most of this area is not as extreme as where I live, as am in a small valley, lately has been a challenge to grow plants that once grew her with no problems. Many bromeliads like Neoregelia, Billbergia Aechmea still seem to grow here outdoors ok, though am finding Guzmania & select Vriesea do not like the cold winter temps.

Am currently building a new tunnel plant house which Hopefully will allow me to grow many plants all year round, with out heating & hopefully will withstand the hail storms which are common in October along with strong winds?

Am still growing broms from seed though am now breeding orchids from seed so broms are in lesser quantities than previous. Still like this climate though every year something different in the weather patterns happen to through my growing process out & hence have to modify my growing conditions each year.

Am not on the net often so posting on a forum is only an occasional event, though do occasionally turn up & will try to post if I get time. cheers allan

Hi everyone.

Allan - Always nice to hear from you on any forum. It seems your weather has gone crazy over the last few years like ours has. I only live one street back from the sea and when we first came here 45 years ago the temperatures were most enjoyable with hot summers and mild winters. Over the last few years we had almost heatwave conditions in the summer and ice forming on the bird baths in the winter.

I have found there are several Aechmeas I previously grew here easily are now suffering severe cold damage during winter, so much so that I've given up trying to grow the Ae chantinii types altogether, however the Ae. zebrina you mention above sounds interesting so I may be chasing you up for a plant in the near future.

Thanks Lars and marquest for your input also, and let's hope we hear from a few more members yet.

All the best, Nev.

Since my winter temps get down to -20F (-29C), into the house they go for winter. Because of this I have only a handful of plants and there is room for them in east facing windows. I have been growing broms for about 7-8 years when I picked up an Ae. fasciata. Six of my broms are various generations from that single plant and three of those are flowering. Two Neo 'Raphael' plants grown from the mother bought 3 years ago round things off. The Neos get about 4-5 hours of direct sun in summer while the Ae. fasciata get 2-3 hours of sun. All are potted in a mix of equal parts pine bark, peat based mix and perlite with a bit of compost and charcoal thrown in. The pots are plastic. Rain water/snowmelt goes in the cups while allowing some water to spill into the soil and a dunking of the pots in water every 6-8 weeks (more often in summer) is the watering regimen. Ferts are given at 1/4 strength only 3-4 times a year.

tj

tsugajunkien Since your growing method is the same as my growing method I would like to ask.......Most things I have read said not to fertilize them. Do you put the fert in the cup or the soil?

I just started last year when I found them on sale dirt cheap at Lowes.

This is what I have gotten so far for 1.00 - 5.00

and his week for 1.00

From the Bromeliad Society International...

"How do I fertilize them?
Bromeliads are generally slow growing plants that do not need a large amount of
fertilizer. The best method seems to be use slow, time-release fertilizers lightly
sprinked around the base of the plant. Never place fertilizer grains directly in
the cup of tank bromeliads, doing this will probably burn the foliage and might
foster the growth of algae or invite rot. Liquid fertilizer is another good method
(especially for air plants that cannot be fertilized any other way). Use 1/2 to
1/4 of the recommended strength and spray several times per season. Flush tank bromeliads
occasionally to prevent the buildup of salts that may damage leaves.
Some bromeliads (particularly the grass-like Pitcarinias) can be "pushed"
to grow quicker by adding extra fertilizer. Most, though, will not benefit by excessive
fertilizer which will tend to make the plants "leggy" (excessively long leaves)
or, in the case of those with colorful foliage (like Neoregelias), it will
diminish the colors turning the plant green."

Whole article

I put the diluted liquid ferts in the cup. Diluted liquids do not harm the plant like granular ferts might.

tj

Thank you. I have some hydroponic fert from that failed attempt garden that I can use.

Hi everyone.

I'd just like to add a little bit of info to this discussion on fertilising based on what I've learned since I started growing brom's. That's good safe, general information (above) from the BSI and you won't get into trouble following that guide.

I think if you remember how these plants are fed in nature and closely emulate that you are on safe ground. The only difference is that you are growing your plants inside as well as outside whereas in nature they are growing outside. I only grow my plants outside so can only base what I have found on these conditions.

In habitat, water, leaf debris and small animal and bird droppings gather in the vases as well as the leaf axils of bromeliads. As this breaks down and starts to rot, it makes a type of "soup"; in other words a very dilute form of fertiliser. This is is continually being manufactured as the cups take on more water and the other foreign matter. Its is an on-going process whereby the plants get a tiny amount of fertiliser fed to them all the time.

When I was a boy I don't remember bromeliads, but the old gardeners used diluted liquid poultry manure on everything they grew, and their rule was "little and often" and they grew wonderful orchids and foliage plants. We had and elderly lady member in our brom society for many years who grew "show winning" brom's and she still followed these same principle as the old gardeners had done.

The only difference being the old gardeners used natural manure from their own poultry (everyone had a few "chooks" in those days) and today "natural" is harder to get and the pelletised poultry manure is substituted. Some say it's not as good as the original thing but whether it is or isn't I can't say, all I know is that this lady grew beautiful brom's.

It's true that Nurserymen and experienced growers use much greater quantities of fertilisers to force growth and grow plants quicker, but this is their job and they have gained the knowledge from experience and know exactly what quantities they can safely take the fertiliser too without causing any problems.

I would like to take you back to the paragraph in that BSI information above where it says: "Most, though, will not benefit by excessive fertilizer which will tend to make the plants "leggy" (excessively long leaves) or, in the case of those with colorful foliage (like Neoregelias), it will diminish the colors turning the plant green."

I suspect this occurs due to excess Nitrogen in the fertiliser and if you read the N:P:K ratio on the container this will show you the balance of the three main ingredients, i.e. Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. If you use a fertiliser with a higher Potassium content than Nitrogen, the above problems can be avoided.

Whatever you do don't fall into the trap of believing that if feeding at the recommended rate makes the plants grow well, an application which is two or three times stronger will make them grow two or three times better; IT WON'T. This is often a belief of new growers and usually results in disaster.

All the best, Nev.

Great info. Thank you so much,

That is why I thought the hydroponic fert I have will work really good. It has 3-3-3

This is my first year growing bromeliads. First got my Tillandsias in late Febuary followed by a pineapple in early may and a pineapple top in June.

Ive since moved everything outside as of now. My pineapples sit in full sun while my Tillandsias sit in the wedges of my lilac trees.

I'm not sure of the temperature averages but usually the summers are around 23 degrees Celsius. We get a few days of 30 and the highest I've ever witnessed was 41 for a day in August. The lows get real low at night usually around 10 but can drop down to five. Sometimes our highs are 10ish.Though we get a lot of sunshine. And hail so I have to be careful.

In the winter (don't know how they're going to do) It's usually around - 20 degrees Celsius for December January and February. It does get down to the - 30s and even the - 40s during the year as well. Last year we Had 3 straight days of - 40. And the winters (as well as the summers) are very dry.

Snow usually lasts untill The end of April to be followed by a few flurries in May that quickly melt away. Snow always comes before Halloween and we've even had it in September.

Our last frost date is May 28th and our first frost is usually around the end of September or early October. So it's only safe for plants for 4 months.

We get a lot of Rain near the end of June and then a few storms in July and usually not much happens in August.

Thus I don't know how my broms are going to do this winter. I think I'll be fine with the Tillandsias but the pineapples not so much as I'm unsure they'll even make it to winter.