Personally, I would go with option #1 :-) The branches will eventually fuse together and this is not a completely uncommon issue.

Unless you are dealing with heavy snow loads - and even that can be accommodated - the sometimes awkward branching structures of JM's present much less of an issue than they would if presented in a larger growing tree. And IMO, they add considerably to the interesting and often sculptural growth habit of these little trees. So rather than some pretty severe pruning that would certainly impact the canopy (at least visually), I would just leave it be.

Would I have selected this particular specimen? Maybe :-) Depends on what the other choices looked like, but I will always lean to a more interesting branching structure on a JM than just a clear, pole-like trunk with a perfectly even canopy. Boring!!

Thanks for the feedback! I want to love this tree, because it really is beautiful (even with, or because of, the crossing branches). I just want to make sure I do what's right for the tree, and not make a mistake that I'll regret later. We intend to stay here 20+ years and want to see this tree grow into a large shade-providing specimen that's the focal point of our backyard. I would prefer to leave the branches as they are, since it looks like the tree is "happy" with them (if that makes sense?), and the overall shape looks so nice.

A follow-up question then: since this tree was just planted this year, and dropped a lot of leaves in the first month after it was planted, should we wait until next Spring/Summer to do a little maintenance pruning? Or sooner, or later? Just not sure of the best timing for that...

Wait until the leaves drop this fall (but not too late or the sap will be running again) or in the spring. I wouldn't do too much - maybe some of the lowest thin branches that hang down and any dead wood. I'd just keep it well watered (but not wet) now - that's the best thing you can do for it.

I can see why other buyers have passed it by over the years. I would have passed it by also.

It just violates too many basic pruning rules, if left alone, that I would never be comfortable looking at it. It looks like a job not done. I can see your point, Gardengal, but I'd remove it right where it starts at the trunk and be done with it.

Mike

LOL! Mike, I think it is a philosophical thing :-) I tend to not be a big proponent of pruning of woody plants in general. First, I dislike anything pruned into an unnatural form. While I can respect the technique and skill behind it, topiary, bonsai and Japanese cloud pruning (Niwaki) drives me nuts! And let's not even talk about meatballed shrubs!! Second, I think we too often are encouraged to reach for pruning tools to somehow mold plants into images of what we think they should look like rather than the way they are inclined to grow naturally. As living organisms, plants are not going to have a perfectly groomed appearance or a precisely symmetrical growth habit. And most homeowners do not have anywhere close to your advanced pruning skills and tend to botch things up horribly. I'd much prefer to see a tree left to develop its natural form, however awkward it may appear to our eyes, than to suffer the indignities of bad pruning.

As to pruning rules, I endorse the ones that govern technique but believe any reasons for pruning should be made on a case by case basis. And if it doesn't compromise the health or structural integrity of the tree - which this won't (if we were talking about a sugar or red maple, I might have a different conclusion) - then the only "rules" that govern are those of personal choice.

It's that fourth photo that really convinces me you should prune. That soft, darker spot of damage. That's only going to get worse, and it will be a spot that collects debris, moisture, and probably insects. Your tree might be fine for 10 or 15 years, but then a main trunk might die out because of the stress or disease introduced by those crossing branches. It's a weak point, and you can see it. If it were mine it would be troubling every time I looked at it, because in my experience it's the look of future problems.

As for where to cut it off... ?? Those two upper right branches are the problems, and I think they definitely need to go. Those lowest whips, one off of each trunk, should probably go as well. You could try forming the heavily pruned trunk into large lower branch with some selective pruning over the next few years. It's a tricky pruning job for sure.

I'd just leave it. Some of the coolest japanese maples i've seen have branches that cross each other and fuse together. That will probably look cool in 20 years.

Magpiepix, the "soft, darker spot of damage" that you mentioned in photo #4 looks more like a "knot" forming when I look at it in person. I don't know if that makes sense - it looks to me like the bark is pushing out and trying to fuse with the main trunk. But I am certainly not an expert. Should I keep an eye on that area, and watch to see if it does become soft?

If it helps, the branch does not actually appear to be "rubbing" at all - it is pressed so tightly against the trunk that it doesn't seem to move.

I don't think rubbing is any worse than cutting off a main trunk's circulation, and it looks like that lower trunk is sending two branches up that will (eventually) cut off most of the vascular tissue on two sides of your main trunk. Am I seeing that correctly?

It may work out, or you may lose the main trunk as the pieces get older and don't have enough space to grow in a healthy way. You may also see ugly bulging as the main trunk tries to compensate (see photos at the link).

http://aroundtheyard.com/trees/crossing-branches-inosculation-t7389.html

On the other hand, since it's the same tree, they may fuse and be healthy. It's hard to tell. The single tree is so attractive, I think you could trim that oddball branch off and it would still be a great tree.

Inosculation - the fusing of branches that touch - is very common in maples. It is quite similar to grafting in essence. It is NOT harmful to the tree, won't cut off circulation and typically results in a unique and quite sculptural trunk form. I have seen it numerous times in larger, mature JM's.

Of course, pruning or removal of the branch in question is always a personal choice, but leaving it in place if so desired will not adversely affect the health of the tree.

I would leave it. I think it looks pretty cool. That tree might not get too much bigger in size.

If I were in your position I would prune it as shown:

This will leave a couple of large wounds which in time heal over and be less noticeable. Large wounds like this introduce some risk of infection, but I would look at the situation as the chance of success meaning a tree I am proud of, versus certainty of being at best, not really satisfied.

I would do it around December time frame. If the tree is overall off-centered because you're removing some of the outside growth on one side, I'd try to even it out by doing the same around the tree. Overall, don't remove over a third of the foliage. At the same time I'd remove any branchlets inside the tree that are pointing towards the center.

That said, there is another option. In a couple cases, when I've had JMs where I just didn't like the form, I've made the following pruning cut:

Crazy as it sounds, the JM responded with a lot of new growth in the spring from the remaining stump and assumed a nice multitrunk form. It's important to make the cut at least 8 inches or so above the ground to make sure you're not cutting into the rootstock.

If you give it a chance as is and it doesn't live up to expectations, you can always resort to the horizontal cut in the future. I've had success with it two out of two times.

It looks like the advice here is about 50/50 for/against pruning out these branches. I took another look at the tree this weekend, and have made a tentative decision.

I have mocked up a couple of photos (with my very limited "Paint" skills) showing what I think the two alternatives would look like, but I can't seem to upload them to the forum... I'll try again later and hopefully the error will go away.

Here is one option: leave the branches as they are, with the hope that they fuse together with the main trunk over the coming years:

Or, remove the crossing branches entirely. I attempted to mark the extent of this removal here, but obviously it gets tricky with all those little branches in the canopy:

[sorry to break this up into multiple posts, but it was the only way I could get the pictures to work]

It's hard to tell from the "branches removed" picture since it's two-dimensional, but this removal would very much "flatten" the right side of the tree.

So here is my decision: I am going to leave the branches as they are for now, and just do a little bit of trimming here and there (like removing those little whips at the bottom of the trunk - already did that yesterday). We primarily installed this tree at this location to eventually give us shade on our patio (which is immediately to the right of the photos). So if I remove these branches, then I would remove most of the canopy of the tree that could give us shade in the future. I also think removal would give the tree a very unbalanced appearance, and I don't see much other branch growth to balance things in the future.

Hopefully I'm making the right decision - please chime in if you think I'm making a big mistake, or if you think this will work out!

I think it'll work out. Let nature do it's thing. Plants have put up with MUCH worse for millions of years, haha.

I already gave my opinion :-) The path you are following is exactly what I would do if it were my tree. Keep us posted on its progress.

Update: we had a landscape architect out today to talk about our yard, and he noticed the crossing branches of our Japanese maple. I asked for his opinion on pruning out the branches versus keeping them, and he said he would definitely cut out both of the crossing branches.

One of the main reasons he gave is that we are wanting this tree to grow large enough to shade the seating area of our patio - he said that if we cut out these two branches, then the tree would put its energy into more "apical"(?) growth, which would make it grow taller faster, hence providing more shade sooner. He also said that there are some smaller branches that will grow to fill in the "hole" in the canopy, and pointed out that it might look a little lop-sided for the next few years, but that when it starts to get really big it should even itself out (especially with a little judicious pruning elsewhere).

He recommended removing the branches this winter when it is dormant.

In addition to being a landscape architect, he also has a degree in ornamental horticulture and has been in the design/build field for 30+ years. So I'm tempted to change my original strategy (keep the branches and let them fuse) and go with his advice (remove them where they originate).

If only I could look 10 years in the future and see both outcomes! Ugh... I guess the "unknown" is part of what makes gardening interesting (and stressful!).

jmg1717, the ultimate choice to prune or not to prune is yours :-) Your post has garnered a number of differing opinions, including several from folks extremely familiar with growing these trees and their particular habits.

With Japanese maples. most pruning decisions are going to be personal - there are simply no hard and fast rules about their pruning and all decisions should be made on a case by case basis.

You seem to be assigning a lot of weight to the opinion of your landscape architect. I would just comment that because JM's do not develop a distinct leader, there is no apically dominant growth point in the tree, but all branch tips will share in apical growth. Removing the branch(s) in question will not necessarily cause the tree to grow taller faster but could very well produce increased overall growth of the canopy......there IS a difference :-) Also you want to be cautious with heavy pruning very late into the winter. Sap begins to move quite early with JM's and pruning after about mid-December may create a lot of bleeding.

btw, although not necessarily obvious with this format, there are individuals that post here with some equally impressive credentials. Mike (miketann) is an extremely knowledgeable landscaper (now retired) with many years of experience and an entire personal "forest" of JM's :-) I too have a degree in horticulture and many years experience as a landscape designer and a nurseryperson. Just saying you are getting the benefit of a lot of years of professional experience on this forum as well.

Gardengal, I certainly didn't intend to discount anyone's credentials on this forum. I actually only mentioned the LA's credentials because I know a lot of posters on these forums have gotten questionable advice from local "professionals" who maybe aren't that knowledgeable. I could tell from reading posts by many of the "regulars" (like yourself) that there are a lot of experts here - and I am glad you make yourselves available for questions from novices like me!

I have to say, I literally had to hold back tears when the LA said bluntly and without question that he'd cut out those two branches. I guess I was giving his opinion more weight because he saw the tree in person and saw what we were trying to accomplish. But I really am torn... I think right now I'm about 55% in favor of keeping the branches, and 45% in favor of removing them.

One specific question though - you mentioned not pruning after mid-December because the sap could start flowing. Do you think that would apply to my location? (Central PA, 6a/6b) We actually lived in Issaquah, WA for about 10 years, and I know the winters there are awfully mild compared to here. We pretty much don't see any green on anything until March. Last year I had to do my fruit tree pruning standing in the snow and 20-degree temps in late February. But this will be my first JM pruning here, so advice on timing is appreciated.

Thanks, Gardengal!

I live just a few miles south of Issaquah near Maple Valley. :-)

There are a few oddball maples among the hundreds of maples I have. The oddballs were 'pruned' by ice and heavy wet snow. Other than a few exceptions, they've been left to grow as is. Turns out, I like em' that way! It's an education observing how they respond to the damage and how to prune to prevent it.

Deer and elk have been doing some significant damage lately. Fencing is not an option with over 3,000 feet of property line and only 660 ft. installed.

Mike

Photobucket/botann

As The Twig Is Bent The Tree Is Inclined

This was a Lovely Little Quote I heard a Number of Years Ago....

Occasionally trees are a Reflection of the Owner just as the Mantel Piece can reflect the person.

Judging by the Branches that are due to be removed it Looks like the tree will still be a nice Specimen if well cared for and given lots of Attention

If you do go ahead with the Pruning a Photograph of the Tree in its new Form would be appreciated for us all to see.....

In Conclusion and Inevitably you will always ask yourself "I Wonder What Would Have Happened If I Had Left It Unpruned" ????

I do hope your Japanese Maple gives you many years of pleasure

Stephen,Cheshire.UK

Hi JMG..Can you let us all know what you ended up deciding with this Japanese Maple

Best Wishes..Stephen,Cheshire.UK

Hi Stephen - as of now, I'm taking the "wait and see" approach (which will probably turn into the "do nothing" approach :-). From gardengal's advice, it sounds like I shouldn't do any major pruning until winter anyway, so that gives me more time to think about it. I'll definitely post with updates!

Sadly, the update is that the tree quickly succumbed to verticillium wilt 2 years ago, and we had to cut it down. Lesson learned - I will only plant very young Japanese maples from now on, without large rootballs that may contain verticillium in the soil when dug from the field.

Good luck with your pruning issues - Japanese maples are such beautiful trees, I only wish this one hadn't died...

Sad you lost your tree that is a bummer. . . I was intrigued by maple_grove's suggestion to just whack it off at about 8" or above the graft. I have an A.p. 'Amber Ghost' in a pot that had terrible form, I bought it really cheap when it was tiny and it just grew up ugly and ice damage made it worse. I whacked it off figuring I had nothing to lose and it has put out all sorts of new growth and looks like it will end up much more attractive. I have a 'Butterfly' in the ground that split from ice that I might have to do that to as well.

Tip: Water newly planted trees with a mixture of hydrogen peroxide. .