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mbsl98

K46 oil change notes

11 years ago

Just a quick update. I have a 2002 JD LT160 with K46 hydro and 430 hours. It has always been used just for mowing a fairly flat acre, with rare pulling of a light JD 10P cart moving mulch, etc. It has been running great, no tranny noises or issues, but I dropped the tranny and cleaned, changed fluid, etc. just for preventive maintenance. At 430 hours, the oil came out very dark, but not "thick" or showing any signs of burning or solid contaminants. The magnet on top of fill opening was really quite clear, just a thin layer of residue. I just turned the unit over to drain, and got virtually all of the 1.9 liters or so out in a matter of a few minutes - no reason to let it drain for hours as others have suggested since I could measure that 99% of the fluid was already out. I did let it sit for another 30 minutes or so, but with very little further accumulation ( a couple of tablespoons). New 5-50 synthetic went back in with little trouble, just needed to fill slowly so that the oil could fill both sides of the case. After installing and bleeding, ran fine again, perhaps a little stronger, but it was good before. All together, as first time, it took about 2 hours of slow tinkering, very few tools, and no particular skill.

Of note to me was the crud build-up all over the exterior of case and between the cooling fins. I keep the Hydro clear of the grass accumulations and was surprised at the thickness of the "dried mud" sort of coating. It was nearly the same color as the tranny case, so not readily noticed. Clearly this was reducing the ability of the tranny to keep cool, thus creating higher operating temps and shortening life. Pretty hard to keep these fins really clean with tranny installed, since the crud is all on the upper surfaces out of sight and reach. Otherwise, the only mechanical flaw I spotted was some play in the drive pulley as it sits on the splined shaft. Neither the shaft splines nor the pulley splines looked particularly worn, and the shaft had no play at all in its case. Is this pulley play at all normal? Or just something that builds up to the point that shaft and pulley need to be replaced? Looks to be as if the pulley will eventually slip on the shaft without doing any other significant damage, so I didn't do anything about it for now. Would it be worth just installing a new pulley on old shaft before shaft splines get more worn??

Bottom line is that this 12 year old K46, used as intended, is dong fine and likely to do so for quite a bit longer.

Comments (18)

  • 11 years ago

    Among the horror stories are many posts of K46's doing what they're supposed to do for years when used properly. Changing oil and cleaning up the cooling fins was a great thing to do, will definitely add years to the machine.

  • 11 years ago

    I have a L110 with the K46. I was just curious to know if the plug was hard to remove or re-install without messing it up.

  • 11 years ago

    I found the plug a bit tricky. It is a round black fitting that appears to be in two parts - a hard thin round outer edge and a softer inner plug. Actually it is all one piece and you need to pry the entire plug away from the shiny metal casing. It was in pretty tight, but I got it out with out damage. It doesn't seem to be particularly fragile - took a bit of force, carefully applied. Reinstalling it was easy, just set it and push evenly, with a couple of taps to get it completely set. If concerned, a new plug should be pretty cheap to have on hand, just in case. You do need to pull the drive pulley and fan off the shaft to get a good access to pull the plug, but that is simple - one spring clip. This seems to be well worth the small effort to change old fluid and extend life of whole tractor.

    I'd like to get some feedback on my question in original post as to small amount of play in drive pulley - worth dropping in a new pulley on old shaft?


  • 11 years ago

    The pulley metal is softer than the shaft, that said it would probably help to change the pulley, Also the shaft is only about $20 so if you order the pulley you might want the shaft also from Tuff Torq. It is simple to change without pulling the whole trans apart. Search the internet for "K46 repair guide with pictures" - it is about 85 pages long but has everything you can think of explained.

  • 11 years ago

    I did have an idea that the shaft was an easy change. Should the parts be ordered direct from Tuff Torque, or do I have to go through a retailer? Thanks for the tips.

  • 11 years ago

    Shaft from Tuff Torq, the pulley may be only from Deere. Tuff Torq has a minimum of $20 so you might get a vent plug or magnets as spares as they are cheep. Call Tuff Torq they are very helpful - 423-585-2000 Have all the numbers from the Tuff Torq plate on the K46 handy. Replacing the shaft is described on the "K46 repair guide with pictures" somewhere.

  • 11 years ago

    great link. Exactly what I need when I am ready to drop tranny next - probably in fall. Best part of preventive maintenance is the open deadlines. Thanks

  • 11 years ago

    And they say it's a sealed unit and un-repairable - yea right.

  • 11 years ago

    Does the shaft have play or is the play where the pulley mounts to the shaft? Since the pulley is held in place by a retaining ring and not a bolt, I think you would expect a slight movement.

  • 11 years ago

    there is minor play in two directions an mine . pulley moves up and down along shaft a small amount, due to normal looseness from use of a spring spacer in that assembly. separately there is side to side play allowing pulley to rotate on shaft slightly before splines on shaft are fully engaged. I would expect a pulley to fit snugly onto the splined shaft since leaving it loose will encourage accelerated wear of splines. Interestingly, there is a similar amount of rotational play with the plastic fan on the same shaft. That seems to suggest that there was some play in both pulley and fan on shaft from new, since by now the pulley would have seen a lot more force and wear than fan. It was the fact that there was some play in both fan and pulley that prompted my original question to see if when new there would have been no play or if a little was normal.


  • 11 years ago

    Yes, you are correct that there is normal give in the system. Also,the spline on the pulley will wear at a greater rate than the shaft. I've not yet had to replace a shaft on one of these , but maybe 2 pulleys a season and then they are good for years to come.

  • 11 years ago

    I read through the instructions on changing the shaft. With careful attention and just a little luck, it seems doable to me.

  • 11 years ago

    Tomplum, do you mean you change two pulleys per year on same machine? Or you just see two separate machines that need a pulley. I think I will buy at least a new pulley and drop it in when I get a a chance - see if I get another 12 years out of it.

    Separate related question: my JD has a spring/ hydraulic damper mechanism on the shift rod just before it connects to the TT unit. Is this common to all manufacturers or a bit of extra stuff added by JD? It seems to be a good way to reduce shock loads on the TT unit, but I didn't see it referenced in the big write up's on pulling the tranny off the machine to change oil, etc.

  • 11 years ago

    No, I do L&G service for a living. So I tend to see two frantic lt owners or so a year that have this transmission grinding noise and no drive. Some of the larger ones as well. There was a handful of Hydro Gears on Husqvarna products a few years back that the shafts would wear, but they are about the only ones. The guys at the JD counter say to add some JB weld if they get too sloppy....You don't see those dampeners on other LTs besides the Deere , at least that come to mind.

  • 11 years ago

    Thanks Tom. I assumed you meant it that way but had to ask ;) Do you happen to have any other recommendations for preventive maintenance on LT's - aside from oil, filters, greasing and adjusting? The Kohler Command doesn't seem to need valve adjustment, but anything else good? Thanks again

  • 11 years ago

    Blow out the engine cooling system. It seems to get overlooked. You can accomplish quite a bit w/o out pulling the shroud, but it is best if you do at least once in a while.

  • 11 years ago

    I forgot to list that. Removing the shroud on mine is very easy, but I still only think to do it every couple of years - so far, nothing much trapped in there. I have seen pics of some pretty thick mats created in fins by mice, etc. which is a good reminder to clean it. Thanks again

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