Nicely done.

tj

very nice

Nice. Is it maple leaf?

Why yes, it is. I realize that it may seem silly to make such a big deal out of making this imprint BUT, I have been working with different recipes and different methods for months now -- not as simple as one might think! I plan on posting my step by step "how to" later this evening. Thank you for taking notice, Cat

I had plans to try something similar but never got around to it this season. It would be great to know how you did yours.

I had the best laid plans of publishing my recipe last night but quickly found that it takes a lot of time to write up a step by step -- I am still working on it! I truly don't want to miss a beat or leave out an important tid-bit. In fact, the whole reason I am so darn proud of myself is because so many other 'tufa masters' left out one or two little steps in their rundowns leaving me struggling to figure out what was missing from producing a successful leaf imprint on a hypertufa pot (wow, what a run on sentence!) Give me another day and you'll have a fab plan.

Awesome. Looking forward to it.

@Terra Firma, I followed you here to see the update! It looks great, and I'm looking forward to your tutorial, and seeing your students' work.

Nice job!

I try not to leave out any details. There are quite a few threads on this forum about using leaves. Did you search this site? Leaf imprints What details did those "masters" leave out and on what web site?

OMG! You are my hero Billie - I have been a fan of your work for a long time now! In fact, I found a photo of your leaf imprinted pots online and have been in pursuit of your perfection every since -- did not dream of you finding me! I, too, teach Hypertufa classes. The 'leaf imprint on the pot' has not been without challenges. I use your 'patty' technique and have changed over from acrylic layering on the leaves to your fabulous idea of using wood stains - much more organic looking (Minwax Honey as a base with Antique Maple highlights). Finding that the stain applies even better if pre-sprayed with a light coat of Clear Matt Finish. I have so much to share but seemingly no time to get it all down to share with folks - my Fall classes start Friday and I am swamped. The photo I uploaded to this forum is my first attempt with a new recipe and using some revised techniques - it's still curing - I will post another photo after I've stained it. Best leaf imprint so far. Please impart some of your 'tufa master' wisdom with all of us - I know that you know something I don't know - I would love to hear from you about your experience with leaf imprints on pots. So excited you took the time to comment! Thank you

Did you read all the posts in that thread? It pretty much covers everything. If not then just ask and if I know I'll post back.

Do you know you can make leaf castings and attach them to your planters.

Never thought of doing that! How would you attach the casting? Do you have a photo of an attached casting?

I'm following this with great interest. @billie_ann, would you please post a link to the thread you're talking about? Thanks so much!

Terra, You can use hypertufa or mortar mix, whatever would blend in with the rest of the pot/wall hanging. If you are painting/staining the whole thing you don't have to wrong about what you use for your glue. How long have you been making hypertufa?

OrangeCamera, The link for the leaf prints is in my post above (yesterday @ 5:22PM), see where the words "leaf imprints" are in green. Click on those words or do a search on this site for leaf imprints. There are more threads about leaf imprints and leaf castings.

Plantman56 can help with any details about leaf imprints or leaf castings too. I think he's been around this site as long as I have 1994-95 back when Spike owned the original web site.

I have been teaching Hypertufa making as well as planting o' the tufa for about 20+ years on and off. I gave seasonal seminars/classes at many local garden centers in So. Cal years ago - then relocated to North Georgia to work as a greenhouse director for The Hamilton Gardens - gave countless classes -- sold a ton of tufa at the garden shop on property. Currently giving classes through the ICL at Young Harris College in Town Co, GA.

I do have my students make tiles of the extra leaves they brought with the left over tufa mix in their tubs. FYI: For a 14" / 6 quart pot - I have them mix 8 cups Portland Cement - 8 cups Play sand - 4 cups Peat Moss - 4 cups Vermiculite - 1 cup exterior latex paint (dark brown). This leaves about 3 cups of extra tufa mix. Perhaps let the tiles dry for 24 hours and then trying to cut the leaf out? Not too sure that would work. I am having a difficult time visualizing how the leaves would look attached to the pot rather than imprinted in the pot. I may be misunderstanding you - I am a blond! Do you have a photo available?

P.S. I try not to go with straight mortar mix - personally, I like the way the tufa ages and patinas. Nothing wrong with cement castings, however!

I truly thank you for your input Billie, keep it coming!!! You are indeed one of the great 'Tufa Masters'!

Nope, not a Master just worked with it for a long time. I do try to tell people they don't need all the extra additives (fibers, acrylic fortifier. wire, rebar, extra lime) for the small pots/planters that most people make on this forum. And STOP telling people to cure for 3 weeks, a month, whatever. You can plant a new planter in a week.

"Perhaps let the tiles dry for 24 hours and then trying to cut the leaf out? Not too sure that would work." If I'm reading this correctly we are talking two different things. I'm talking leaf casting not imprint. You make a casting of a leaf, reinforce it with fiber mesh or acrylic fortifier and attach it to a fresh made or older pot. If attaching to a new pot, make sure the pot is damp, let the casting set up that you can handle the leaf, place the leaf on the damp pot then peel away the real leaf. This will give you a raised leaf that is flat against the outside of the pot. You can also make a leaf casting that is curved or has undulating edges and attach to the outside of the pot with hypertufa or mortar mix or gorilla glue. Does this make sense? I'll see if there are pics of the pots.

edit: forgot to mention that if you're attaching to an older pot you should submerge the pot to get it to absorb water before attaching the leaves.

Found a link to a discussion on leaf imprints. There's a little more detail about mixes that I use. I can't find the photos that we posted in the "Gallery" on the old Garden Web. I had all kinds of pics posted there. Still looking for photos on PhotoBucket and Flickr.

leaf imprints

YES! Finally, someone who agrees! I don't add anything (sometimes change up the recipe depending on what I am making). No fiberglass fibers or hardeners AND I plant my pots up the next class (1 week)! No need to cure!!!

Thank you for clarifying the 'leaf casting' over 'leaf tile' - I get it now - great idea! I am going to give it go this week (gotta get those leaves now or it will soon be all over until spring - students had a hard time finding maple and oak today that was in one piece and not eaten up or too dry or torn - winter is a comin')!

Can't wait to review your pics! I get so excited and inspired that it will have to wait 'til morning or I won't sleep - I'll want to head out to my workshop and start working!!!

You are fab! Thanks again for the inspiration - you need to write book!!!

Yes, the pots still need to cure but 1 week is long enough. They will continue to cure with plants in them. Can you link to PhotoBucket or Flickr on this site?

Yes

Still looking for pics. Maybe on my desk top. I'll check tonight.

Hey Billie -- I need some new and fresh ideas (please). I want to try something different with the finishing o' the pots. I have been using wood stains (got that one from you) on the leaves for years (I really like the natural 'organic' look that the stains give) BUT I would like to try something different for my Fall series of classes this year. I'm not too fond of 'painting' the leaves so that they look like leaves (if that makes sense). I have thought of trying copper paint then finishing with a acid wash for a cool patina? The pots for the first class are done and we will be adding a finish (hopefully, something different) next week and planting them up the following week. Maybe stain the whole pot? Help?! Thoughts?

Hope this works. Re: copper paint with acid wash. Do you mean like this? Well that didn't work. I'll try something else. Why can't I get my photos to link here....finally....maybe. Anyway the top pic is leaf castings that were used for jewelry or attached to pots/planters as decorative elements. The bottom pic is a small pot with a leaf imprint that was painted with copper paint then acid washed. Both pics are old. I know you said you don't want to paint the leaf imprints to look like real leaves but why? Some of my best leaves were painted then dry brushed to add details. I give up, the pics were there as I was writing but as soon as I hit submit their not there.

Thank you for trying to upload your pics. Can you simply add photos to this page? Just copy the photo - hit the camera icon and paste (if not, no big deal).

So you have used copper? Have you stained an entire pot with wood stain? I am trying to have an organic Fall-ish look to these pots - I do have the students paint leaves to look like leaves when I am teaching classes for Master Gardeners (i.e. hostas, heuchera) but for these Fall classes I wanted to do something kinda 'artsy fartsy' - something unexpected and different (if that makes sense).

Trying again. Nothing! Click on camera icon, select photo from my computer, click the open button....nothing. I was cruising around this site and think I saw where a "pro" can post pics but nothing about us commoners. If someone knows the secret let me know.

That should have worked. Also, you can copy the .jpeg link
from PhotoBucket (the "Direct Link") the same way and pasting it in the File Name. Not sure about Flickr. Sometimes Houzz gets bogged down and it can take a minute or two for a pic to show up.

Not hypertufa, but a planter pic of mine from PhotoBucket...

tj

Holy cow TJ, that's nice. Faux bois? Don't think I've seen one so neat and symmetrical. Is that a inner planter? Do you stain any of them?

Regarding the link for PhotoBucket, as far as I can see there's nothing that says "direct link". Only thing I see is "img thumb" and when I click to copy I get what's below. Also tried pasteing what I copied into the "link" button below. I get what looks like a clickable link to the right, words in green. Last time I tried it, it didn't work. AND the reason I'm up at this hour.....I pulled a hamstring while rock climbing and it's killing me. copper paint and acid wash When I clicked submit the words copper paint and acid wash are no longer in green and aren't clickable and if you click on the link you get "Sorry, the requested page does not exist." .....I'm an idiot......maybe.....I was having a problem with someone getting into my albums and made them private. Is that my problem??? Will try again.

copper paint with acid wash

That didn't work. trying again. That didn't work either. Tried again but instead of linking to the one photo it linked to my whole album. At least I got something to link.

I did not make that planter. Stumbled upon at an auction years ago and, yes, I have separate planters inside it.

To get PhotoBucket to show the "Direct" link, you have to go to "Settings" by hovering over your avatar pic to the left of "Cart" on the top right.

Once in Settings, click on album and check Direct Link as one of the links you want shown.

tj

Thanks, tj. I just copied it and I'm giving it a try.

But isn't it showing my whole album though and not just the one pic. Or can I see more because it's my album?

A-a-a-a-a, ok thanks. Could you see all the rest of my pics?

Let me look...yes, I can see them. You can edit your post to remove the link if you'd prefer the whole album not be seen.

Nice leaf, BTW.

tj

LOVE THE LEAF IMPRINT COPPER WITH ACID WASH! I have ordered the 'copper kit' - can't wait to do this! My next class is gonna love this! Thanks for uploading Billies pic TJ - you all have been so helpful - many thanks.

I still think you need to publish a book encompassing all of your fabulous techniques Billie. Really! I could sell them all day to my students!!!

Many Thanks,

Cat

P.S. Exactly what product line did you use for your copper treatment Billie? Curious because I will need to order quite a bit - the line I have ordered comes in very small amounts - I need a bunch for all of my classes.

TJ, Thanks so much for your help. I don't use my PhotoBuckets or Flickr accounts too often so never kept up with the "how to's". It use to show all the different links under each pic with a note beside each one telling you which type of web site you could post to. This is why I sometimes bore people with the exact procedure.

Cat, Wasn't thinking about you doing this for a class. The product I used takes several days to apply. The other thing, this is an acid, I have problems with some people in class not listening or they are messy. You don't want those people using acid. What about jewelry?

Surprise, surprise, tried to post a photo of hypertufa/cement jewelry and nothing posted. On PhotoBucket went to "settings", "album", clicked on "Direct link", found photo I wanted to copy, clicked on "direct link" next to photo and copied link. On this forum, clicked on "camera" icon (says Photo beside icon), it opened a link to my computer, pasted the link from PhotoB in file name bar (which I thought strange since this photo is not on my computer) and hit "open", waited and waited and waited. Nothing happened. Any other thoughts?

billie_ann, I agree about telling people to wait a month or two. I made planters and used them within a few weeks with no problems. I started making hypertufa about 20 years ago, taught classes, sold at an antique mall, an art gallery, and a big flea market, as well as from home. I live in an apartment now and miss being able to make the stuff, but I am enjoying the comments and all here.

Charles, Even though you live in a apartment, you can still work with hypertufa. You just have to be careful and neat. I'm neat when working with cement but I've had some people that are covered from head to toe with the hypertufa mix. I've used clear ziplock plastic bags to mix up a cement batch when working indoors. I've given talks where they don't want me hauling out a mortar pan on stage but they want people to see the consistency of the mix. I make up a few plastic bags with different recipes before going to the meetings then just add water and mush them up then pass them around. If you do try this make sure you use plastic freezer bags because they are heavier and be gentle when you add the water and mix. Oh, make sure you close the ziplock before mushing.