Something loose and airy. Plants indoors tend to hold moisture too long, especially with a peat based mix. I pull my plants before first frost, then prune everything above the third or fourth node on all branches and prune the root ball to about the size of soft ball or a little bigger. I simply pull the plant, try to remove as much soil or potting mix as possible, then prune with a large pair of scissors or shears. A one gallon container is plenty. Water only when the soil is nearly dry all the way through. I wouldn't bother with lights if there is a window that gets some direct sunlight that you can use. If not, then lights are probably necessary.

After pruning:

After repotting:

The next spring before repotting for the summer: (Keep in mind these plants were kept pruned back all winter to keep them from getting too big).

Oh, and I just use the same 5-1-1 mix that I use in the summer. However, it is really probably about 3-1-1 in reality. Pine bark fines - soil or potting mix - perlite.

Thanks lazy_gardens, what a great idea to reduce transplant shock. What container mix do you use when overwintering?

esox7, what great root balls. My peppers in the ground or containers, even in my ~3-1-1 mix never look that developed or had stems that thick. What ferts did you use for the container plants and how often?

Those root balls are pruned already. They were much bigger.

Before Pruning my Numex Twilight

After Pruning Numex Twilight

Here is an Orange Tree Hab. This thing could have used a bigger bucket I am afraid.

Mostly I use Dyna grow 9-3-6. But I have used several others as well. But I apply it much less than it calls for.

Hey Bruce,

Quick question about your pruning... Do you do ALL pruning (branches, leaves, roots) at the same time? Or do you just trim the leaves/branches then let the plant "recover" for a little bit (a week or two?) before pulling it up and root pruning? I'm tinkering with the idea of overwintering a plant or two this year.

Thanks,

Mike

I do it all at once and never even had a plant look distressed after I repotted it. Typically, they will go into a kind of dormant stage for a little while after it and just do nothing. Then one day you will notice some new buds popping out along the branches and soon, you will be pruning it back on a regular basis to keep it in check while it waiting for the outdoor growing weather to return. IMO, overwintering is about getting them through the winter to the next spring. I am not trying to produce peppers and have my plants full size when spring comes. You could, but then, why prune them back at all. I am just trying to get them through to the spring and in the mean time, no have them take over the entire house. By the time spring rolls around they have a great root structure again with new hungry roots and the top is already fully established with green shoots all over it just waiting to get going.

Wow, thanks Bruce. I'm surprised your plants haven't gone into some kind of shock after all that "butchering" at once, haha. Great to know, thanks again.

Mike

A good rule of thumb that I've used with many species of overwintered plant material, is prune the roots back as much as you prune the above-ground growth. We usually overwinter large outdoor plants including potted peppers in five-gallon containers. We prune the branches back at least 50%, remove the plant from the pot, and cut back the bottom of the root ball at least that much, and remove some of the top root mat and material too. Then, we re-pot with the same medium (Miracle Grow), water in, and put it in the green house. We have plants that are around ten years old that are still going strong. BTW, elevate the pots on 2X4 blocks off of cold concrete floors. Allows warm air to circulate underneath.

great tip about keeping them off the cold floor. That would have been my mistake for sure! How much natural light do you give them while over wintered? mine are in a basement that will only receive a little bit of filtered day light a day, through a fairly small window.

Mine are in a greenhouse with a 90% light transmissible polycarbonate roof and semi-opaque walls and ends. They get whatever sun is available here in central Texas winters.