I agree. Winter protect them even though they may be ready to start leafing out. I have quinces, roses, camellias and azaleas in bloom since 3-4 weeks ago. Just plain crazy. I wish I had enough material to winter protect all of these in case of a drop but oddly, it does not look like we are going to get hit with freezes... at least thru the 23st.

thanks for the input, however, I am in zone 4b. I think the types and charateristics of Hydrangeas are different between the two growing zones.

I need help with the northern variety. What can I do to slow them down so they don't start blooming so early? And if they do, should I just cover them when the temps start going back to normal or worse for this time of year. Typically it is a high of 40 and low of 18 on march 10th so temps well below freezing are definitely expected before we get to the real Spring.

Last year, the first shoots showed up April 19th. The year before (2014), they didn't show up until May 12th. So that is a good three weeks earlier. I just don't want that happening again this year. We routinely get frost up to the last week in May.

" I think the types and characteristics of Hydrangeas are different between the two growing zones."

Not at all!! The same types of hydrangeas can be grown in both colder northern zones and warmer, more southerly zones but one will need to compensate for the colder winters and later spring frosts in the northern locations.

It is important to know what sort of hydrangeas you are talking about, as their cold hardiness differs as does how they produce flowers. The two hardiest species of hydrangeas - H. arborescens (z4 at least, perhaps colder) and H. paniculata (z3) - both bloom on new growth so neither should be adversely affected afa flowering is concerned by late frosts/freezes. Unless they are very late :-) Once the shrub has budded out/already produced foliage, a late freeze can still zap the flower buds, delaying or even removing any flowering potential. Wrap or protect to prevent this from happening.

Bigleaf hydrangeas, H. macrophylla, are generally considered root hardy to at least z5 (sometimes 4) but will die back to the roots if left unprotected in these colder climates. These types of hydrangea produce flowers on second year growth (for the most part, although some newer "rebloomers" will produce flowers on current year's growth also) and these flower buds are formed in late summer/early fall and are vulnerable to both winter cold and spring freezes. These will absolutely need winter protection in your climate to prevent complete dieback to the roots and to guarantee flowering and even that is not a 100% guarantee. Oakleaf hydrangeas, H. quercifolia, are very similar in hardiness and how they bloom and will also need some protection.

Thanks gardengal. Here is a photo of my hydgrangea from a couple years back when it did actually bloom:

Any idea what variety it is and how best to go forward with it. Also, is it OK to prune back in the fall? I have heard both ways. Due to the new growth from the root crown, some say you should cut it back in the fall. Others say no. I suppose you definitely don't want to do that in the south, but what do you think about up north?

That is a mophead (H. macrophylla). To bloom reliably in your Zone 4, it needs winter protection. Otherwise, stems in Zone 4 will dry out and there go the flower buds that it develops in July-August for Spring. A rebloomer version of mopheads could produce blooms by summer though, kind of like paniculatas and arborescens.

Up in Zone 4, there is a very low chance that unprotected stems will survive winter (unless you get an El Nino Winter) so you can cut the stems in the Fall or in the Spring. Maybe cut them if you have seen the long term forecast for winter and decided it will be cold (and winter protect instead if you think winter may be mild enough that the stems will survive with winter protection).

I think I after this season, I will just leave them alone and see what happens. Those long term forecasts never hold out and all it takes is one deep cold snap. We did have a REALLY cold and prolonged winter the year before and that plant above is the one that came after, so it seems to handle the winters OK. I just don't remember if I had pruned it back the previous fall.

I would not consider growing a mac in your zone without winter protection, regardless of variety. And I would keep that protection in place until all chances of late spring freezes have passed. That is really the only way you can be assured of flowering consistently.

Personally, I would try to avoid any pruning except for the removal of any dead stems/wood and that should be delayed until the plant fully buds out for the season. Macs don't require pruning and pruning when not necessary or at the wrong time (any time after flower buds have been set) will also tend to remove flowering potential as well.

Thanks gardengal. I will just try to protect the little fella I have already. I don't need any more plants. I am starting to find room really limited already. But I will refrain from pruning this fall and just wait until I see what the plant wants to do next spring. But this year, I will try to keep it protected if the weather turns for the worse after it starts it's new growth.

God luck!! Hope you are rewarded with lots of blooms this season!!

Yah, me too. I really was dissapointed last year. Especially since the plant grew so nice and green and healthy.

Here is the same plant last fall. I circled it in yellow and as you can see, no blooms. The other plants are Pink Elephant Hibiscus.

Yep, it is kind of exciting but not really a good thing. My stupid Hydrangea is already putting out new shoots. This is really bad. Last year the first time I noticed sprouts was April 19th. I just looked today and on March 14th, I have sprouts. I really think my problem last year was an early spring and then hard freeze. Now it is even a month earlier. We have had a long stretch of 10-25 degree above average temps for a couple weeks. But our average low this time of year is supposed to be 20F and I don't think we have gotten below freezing all of March. So, the stupid plants think it is May now.

Can I just throw a blanket or something over them when the temps drop below 30 degrees? Or is it going to be a lost cause. I can't imagine not seeing twenties and even teens before Spring finally gets here for real.

I'd give it a blanket and also a couple of jugs of hot water if it gets really cold. Depending on whether you have a variety that blooms on new wood or not, you may or may not get blooms since you have cut it down. H. macrophylla sets flowering buds during the previous year's growth, and if you cut off the branches, you cut off the early bloom. For some types, there is bloom on the current season's growth as well, but not all types, so for some if you prune in the fall, you remove all the next year's flowers.

Yah, it definitely blooms on new wood as well as old. I have never heard of using hot water. Does that warm up the rootball area or what is the intention? It won't shock the plant will it?

You put the jugs of hot water under the blanket; don't pour out the water. They radiate the heat and keep it a bit warmer. It's just for a single overnight that you expect to get particularly cold. I occasionally do this in the fall with an early frost and frost-tender plants and it will give them a couple of extra weeks of production.

OK, after thinking about that for a while, that I what I figured the idea was. Thanks, I will probably have to do this fairly soon.

why not just dump some mulch on them and remove it as it gets warmer? that's what i do to my two hydrangeas and they come up every year.

Will do. But they are already budding out.

Does anyone KNOW what temp damages the buds? I've read conflicting information.