it depends on your meaning of "mid priced"...

In that price range you can get decent quality from a number of vendors. Beside VAH, Kobe and Best by Broan come to mind.

You would benefit immensely from doing a search about Range Hoods on this forum; many, many discussions about the subject that will help you better understand what you actually want. If you're cooking, questions such as dimensions (depend on the range/rangetop size), airflow requirements and sound noise ratings are really important. If it's more the looks of it you're after, then anything shiny will do.

Then a deep hood (27" is best, 24" is passable) is mandatory. Width-wise, a stand-alone hood would have to be 36", while an under-cabinet one can be 30" because of the channeling effect of the adjacent cabinets.

I think that the airflow will have to be at least 700CFM, preferably above 900. A very nice hood, a little outside your price range but very capable of eliminating all smells and heat from your cooking, is this one: http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/EPD6136SS.html.

It is desirable that a 2 ft x 3 ft aperture be able to flow around 90 CFM/sq.ft. x 6 sq. ft. = 540 CFM for good containment of the cooking effluent intercepted by the aperture. If the pressure losses* are modest (good make-up air), then a rated flow of 700 CFM may be enough. If you want to squeeze 540 CFM through the cracks in the walls, then even a blower rated for 900 CFM may not be sufficient. Note that blower ratings are determined in free air. 'Fan curves' provide the information on what the flow rate will be with a given amount of pressure loss due to path restriction.

kas

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*Like electricity, air flow occurs in a loop, and one can start at any point in the loop and determine the pressure losses around the loop. For example, starting from the cooktop, the loss mechanisms are typically baffles, hood transitions, duct losses, exterior cap losses, and then make-up air losses back into the house and thence to the cooktop. The steady-state actual air flow through the hood will always equal the make-up air flow to the hood. If the MUA is gagged, then the actual air flow through the hood will be low. Also with gagged MUA the house pressure falls, risking backdrafting of any combustion appliances such as hot water heaters or gas dryers. This entails a carbon monoxide hazard. There are various ways around these problems that are addressed here in MUA threads that go back at least to 2008.