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miztaryn

Lavender from seed

10 years ago

I'm back with more irritating questions. Thank you all for putting up with me.

I'm trying to start lavender from seed, but research says I need to keep the seeds warm in vermiculite to get them to germinate.

A.) is this for water absorption?

b.) is this slightly tedious, can an amended soil work?

c.) if vermiculite's (supposed) water absorption is absolutely necessary, is there a substitute? Like say... An unused diaper filling mixed with soil or compost?

d.) low budget is the goal...

My thanks go out to anyone who offers an answer.

Comments (15)

  • 10 years ago

    i sowed a packet of lavender seed about 9 days ago. Sowed on surface of pro-mix (needs lights apparently) put on heat mat, and as of today about 5 or 6 have germinated. I didn't put in freezer or anything. Beginners luck maybe but if you just want a few plants, you'll probably get that out of a packet of seeds.

    miztaryn thanked V S
  • 10 years ago

    Lavender from seed is easy to do via the winter sowing method. I've personally had success with 'Munstead' and 'Lady'. Here is a thread with more info about it:

    http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/3708798/winter-sowing-lavender?n=7

  • 10 years ago

    I started some under a grow light a few months ago. They germinated fine(sowed the seeds in potting soil and covered with plastic), but after reaching 3" in height they just stopped growing. I'm always up for a good challenge, so I wanted to give it a shot. But after a month of stagnant growth, I relinquished the battle.

  • 10 years ago

    I had great luck germinating Munstead in a moist paper towel. Try that.

  • 10 years ago

    Some varieties are easier than other - the Ellagance series and also both Munstead and Hidcote are easier than the stoechas types...but I would agree that cuttings are faster and a lot more reliable. Either buy one plant and take your own cuttings or beg a piece from a friend.

  • 10 years ago

    Yeah, looks like I might end up buying a plant and going from there. The directions on the seed packet said to scarrify the seeds then keep them warm until they germinate in two weeks. They made it sound so simple. Except, as Dave said, it's not that simple. Haha


    I may still attempt winter sowing so I don't waste the seeds.

    Thanks everyone

  • 10 years ago

    I started them right out of the pack I used a heat mat tray and dome under a light used foxfarm happy frog soil every one of mine came up and I did 7 different kinds ,true,lady,mustread,hycote,english ellagance,white ellegance ,and pink rosea first year doing it the key is to start 5 seeds per container I did mine in 4" pots a lil bit of water everyday.

    Time wise true,white,and pink were the quickest seeds 10-14 days munstread the longest a little over a month

    Try dollar store seeds first not much money into them .25 cents compared to white and pink $5 for any where from 20-40 seeds

    miztaryn thanked shawn b
  • 10 years ago

    As a rule, germination is often the trickiest aspect of growing from seed...but I have found some plants, and I count lavender here, to be quite demanding of their growing regime, requiring careful watering, perfect drainage and a clean environment - a whiff of fungal spores and they can be toast...and with my less-than-perfect nurturing, I have found lavender from seed can be a frustrating experience. YMMV though.

    miztaryn thanked User
  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    This the first year I have grown lavender I have had good luck with all of them.The fungual spores depends on which one you have munstread is the most prone to getting it. The key is a clean enviroment,watering wise it is a drought tolerant plant can not water everyday.I give my seedlings water every other day.One of the most helpful things is planting 5 seeds together.I have did one seed at a time and 3 out of 30 came up.Thats when I went and bought some books and did some reading and used the internet to see what other people had luck with and found out pant 5 per container. So I planted them 5 seeds per container and did 50 containers all of them came up.But in the end it is what works best for you this is what I have had luck with.I also use a metal hylide light and a heat mat tray and dome also and as soon as it comes up I remove it from all of it and is just under the light.but the whole time it gets 16 hrs of light 8 hrs of dark all my seed starters are the same way so I do not stress any out.I also mix my own soils to for different stages of growth one is more efficent for starting seeds to help with a better germination rate than the one is for blooming.

    miztaryn thanked shawn b
  • 10 years ago

    I might splurge on a heat mat next year, but not this year. I've already blown enough on a light/shelf setup for my tomatoes and peppers this year. I've been trying to keep my hopeful little seedlings in a sunny window (in a sealed bag so the moisture stays in) or by the fire, but it's next to impossible to keep them warm all the time. If I could just get the lavender to sprout it would be a happy plant, it thrives here. And the deer ignore it, bonus.

    Might have to try that happy frog soil mix in the future.

  • 10 years ago

    It is tough to get everything at once just got to keep adding to your set up.You might want to try it just right in the soil container instead of a plastic bag.I put mine right into the soiled pot.Not all seeds will work in plastic bags or paper towels.Fire is good gives off co2. happy frog and a cup of humus good mixture.I just reread what you wrote leave the plastic bag open a little bit needs air to get in there and watch watering it I use a spay bottle to mist them so they do not get water logged.Since you do not have a heating pad put it on top of your refrigerator instead another little trick.I hope some of this helps there are several different ways to do things its what works best for you experiment you could find a different way that works better. good luck

    miztaryn thanked shawn b
  • 10 years ago

    All excellent advice, thank you Shawn. I'll try your suggestions.

  • 10 years ago

    your welcome you could always do a couple pots and put them in with your tomatoes so it gets the light

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    just a note that my munsteads have reseeded easily and would even grow between my interlock paving stones. (sandy condition and with good drainage). I would collect them in early summer to transfer them to better spots. It just needs a good winter. Why don't you try both growing it indoors as you are planning to do and also outdoors - in good soil mixed in with grits or sand or vermiculite. Maybe put it under protective cover like a cloche so you know where you planted them.

    (in a US zone 4/Can Zone 5)