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Thatch

10 years ago

Hello,

Wondering if anyone has any information on good thatch control techniques. I am working with a large lawn (Pennblue Sports Turf), about the size of a soccer field. The thatch layer has grown well over an inch, which I believe is due to over-watering before I started the maintenance on this property.


I will consider detaching in the late summer/early fall, but am interested in some solutions for the near future. Only interested in organic treatments/methods. I know increasing the microbial activity will help. Has anyone used the product, Nitron Thatch Away? Other than that, the gopher netting was placed just below the sod (less than 4 inches deep), so I'm concerned that this will be a problem when the time comes for me to aerate.

Thanks!

Comments (2)

  • 10 years ago

    The best solution for thatch is to make the soil the turf grass is growing in into a good healthy soil with an active Soil Food Web that will digest that thatch. Thatch buildup says the soil needs attention so start any thatch control program with a good reliable soil test and with these simple soil tests. a Thatch level of about 1/2 inch can be beneficial to a good healthy turf.

    1) Soil test for organic
    material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
    a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
    replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
    hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
    For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
    bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
    that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

    2) Drainage. Dig a hole
    1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
    away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
    away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
    more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
    soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

    3) Tilth. Take a handful
    of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
    released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
    finger that clump should fall apart.

    4) Smell. What does your
    soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
    odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
    will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
    can be bad as well.

    5) Life. How many
    earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
    according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
    is not healthy.

    That thatch removal spray might work if the soil has adequate levels of organic matter to sustain them, but then if the soil had adequate levels of organic matter the thatch probably would not have built up.

    kimmq is kimmsr

    User thanked kimmq
  • 10 years ago

    Some people report good results with cornmeal as a fungicide. The original research was done by two people at Texas A & M, however they could not replicate the original research and no one else has been able to either so we do not know why the cornmeal, at that time, appeared to suppress that fungus.

    Most everything I can find about nutrients in cornmeal refers to human consumption and not as a soil food. However, some people report good results using cornmeal as a fertilizer, about as good as soybean, cottonseed, and other grain meals.
    The best way to get humates and microbes into the soil is to get adequate amounts of organic material into the soil. You can buy those things and spread them on the soil but if there is not food for them, organic matter, they will either go dormant or die.

    kimmq is kimmsr

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