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egresor32

Advice on Sweet100 Tomato in large containers?

10 years ago

Hello,

I need some advice on tomato container for a balcony garden. I'm planting Sweet100 tommy tomatoes in 2 halves of a 55 gallon drum...badly cut...so 25 gal each?

the supports planned are on a average 2nd floor sized balcony I nailed an upright 2X4 on the middle front and strung strings from it to a light fixture on one side of the siding door and to the other side to an air conditioner.

I have the pots sort of center near each outside corner and plan grids strings to tie 3 stems each of 2 per pot and let them climb and run along the string or over hanging if they get really tall.

Does that sound practical? One or 2 per pot? and a single stem sounded wasted space....are 3 ok or will/should they fill out too much for 3 to be practical. Don't know what to expect from them.

The soil is a mix of Miracle-Gro professional Mix and just regular soil to roughly 60/40 Miracle-gro to soil. Planting in trench with the tomato plant stem laying flat in the trench. I followed a recommendation of laying the potted plant on it's side for some days and that caused a bend in it. Laying the stem in the trench all along it to the bend has the bend at the proper angle without stressing growth.

Any recommendations and helpful ideas. I've gardened and tomato containers before. but not Sweet100's.

Thanks


Comments (8)

  • 10 years ago

    I grow my Sweet 100s--and have been doing so for 9 years-- in regular large plastic pots (about 24" across) and in a half wine barrel. The pots are next to a 4' high wrought iron fence, and I lean 7' high tells against the fence behind the pots for extra support and tie the vines where needed. I find that 2 plants do well in the wine barrel and can tolerate being paired up even in the smaller pots. They are very prolific; I had somewhere around 3,000 last year from 7 plants. I use Gardeners' Gold, with extra perlite to resist compaction. My seedlings are still inside, alas, while I wait to harden them off after 10 days of rain. BTW there's also a good growing tomatoes thread that has more on Sweet 100s.

  • 10 years ago

    Appreciate the response. I did find another thread (legacy) about Sweet100's, but think the thread is sort of dead. Think your experiences show 2 per container is ok and maybe a 2 stem growth for each? Single stem seems like wasted space? I assume you needed the 7 foot trellis behind. So I'll need more upright supports and strings connecting to support expected vigorous growth.

    The heavy perlite was intended on the posts, but one was already done witht he Miracle-Gro Pro Mix and it seems to have quite a bit of perlite in it....s I mixed part regular soil. Intent is a higher proportion of mix to soil on the 2nd pot. I have to enlarge the drainage holes and put some stone in the bottom of it. I have to get a heavy railroad type spike to punch some holes in the tough plastic pot to alleviate cracking too.

    Sounds like I can expect quite a few toms from 4 plants then. Thanks for the info and tips. The other thread I posted in just recently had a picture posted about identifying a plant problem. Maybe your expertise might help them. Successfully growing them for so many years imparts useful knowledge. I thought it might be his clay pot leeching moisture or transplant shock...or both?

    thanks very much! You helped considerably.

    http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2182902/sungold-and-sweet-100-do-you-let-them-grow-crazy

  • 10 years ago

    A couple of quick comments before I head out to the garden. First, I never prune my tomatoes. There is much discussion in the growing tomatoes forum about whether to do this. The plants will get to about 8 or 10 feet, so good to have something to drape the vines around. I have found it relatively easy to keep up with fert and water, but my Supersweets are pretty hardy. The Burpee variety, I have found, have slightly thinner skins and crack if there is too much variability in moisture (still edible though); the Fedco ones have thicker skins. Have fun!

  • 10 years ago

    Great info...and very immediately useful too. Will see how they grow. Thanks!

  • 10 years ago

    Do not mean to prolong the thread beyond necessity...

    you said you do not prune your plants and from regular gardening experience (once with tom's) I can see that, but a saw a couple of websites...one a University...about removing all branches below the first fruiting branch. They said more toms would be produced.

    Just an info post...unless you disagree....thanks...guess that's it for me on the thread. Appreciate the good info.

  • 10 years ago

    Thought of another question about which plant to encourage the growth of or remove it..

    Wasn't quite sure what to expect and decided to have 2 plants per container. The plants have some genetic variation.

    One of them in a container is very vigorous and has strong vine structure and looks to be like a monster of a plant. Not many flower shoots though, but there are new branches growing at nodes and should be well branched and may produce more later (?)

    The other plant in the same pot is weak looking, not due to the vigor of the other one dominating the pot...merely genetic.

    the 2 in the other pot look like a genetic hybrid between the other 2 would look like.

    I figured to encourage the hybrid looking ones, but wasn't sure. Should I just let them grow as intended and string as much as possible and limit pruning or maybe take out the more dwarfing one to encourage the vigor one? Or would removing the vigor one give increased production with the smaller profile growth one?

    I have some knowledge of fruit trees and a general rule in pruning is remove the strong and leave the weak. The stronger branches produce more wood structure and fewer flowering nodes.

    Not sure if that would hold true with tomatoes also? Would the less vigorous one produce more than the vigor one? I figured the hybrid looking ones would be best, but was curious.

    Thanks


  • 10 years ago

    Correcting something.

    When I said weaker growth. I meant the vines are not as thick and strong looking.

    The plant is vigorous also has nearly the same number of flower clusters as the hybrid looking ones. It is also in the corner with the least light during the day and that may account some for it....the hybrid looking ones are sunny the most.

    The spindly one (poor choice for words) has numerous node growth of new branches and can see flower clusters forming much more than the vigor one.

    It isn't a sickly looking plant by any means. Just more delicate looking and needng more support. It may be the better...I'd not know. Generally I'd think the hybrid looking ones would produce betetr, but maybe not?

    thanks

  • 10 years ago

    Figured to update...removed the oak tree one to allow the more delicate vined one to ramble.

    There are plenty of shoots growing and quite a few flower clusters and should produce enough of both...quantity of harvesting another factor.

    The other 2, which look like a hybrid of the large and the delicate one and has that hybrid vigor. and retaining the flowering of the more delicate one. They should be large and plenty of flower clusters producing.

    Thanks for the assists. the info was very helpful. .


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