Clean the carb

may also be contaminated fuel (water/trash) - find where the fuel line enters the carb. Remove fuel line at that point and drain all old fuel out of tank using catch can. discard old fuel. flush fuel tank/fuel lines with a bit of fresh fuel and discard same. Reconnect fuel line and add fresh fuel to tank. Start engine and run for several minutes to clear old fuel from carb. Then try tilling.

If engine still behaves as before then yes, carb needs to be pulled, disasm, soaked overnite in liquid cleaner, all orifices/passageways probed with a stiff small dia brass

wire with the help of a magnifier, blown out with compressed air and rebuilt with fresh needles/seats/gaskets from a carb rebuild kit.

Agree with two previous posts. You might try this. Follow rexlex advice on draining old gas, replacing with new, add SeaFoam or other cleaner, at least a couple ounces, and start and let it idle, the cleaner "may" clean out the fuel passages without disassembly, etc. It's all a function of how clogged they are. If the engine will run, I try that first, sometimes it works.

Post type of tiller and engine and model number. If you're going to have to pay transportation both ways and a repair charge, a new carb will probably be cheaper, If you're at all mechanically inclined. Actually, small engine carb rebuilding is getting to be a lost art. A lot of shops have found it's cheaper for the customer to just replace rather than labor to rebuild plus cost of rebuild kit. Also, if it's a newer "EPA" carb, those aren't really meant to be rebuilt, though kits are available, usually doesn't turn out well. e.g. I just replaced a carb on a 26HP Briggs V twin, carb was $206, rebuild kit was $89 and it was an EPA carb, so a no brainer for me, just replaced the carb. That is a much bigger engine and much more expensive carb than you have on a tiller.

Good luck,

Ev