Maximum fig production = open vase pruning = can quite a bit of distance. Potted usually aren't pruned to open vase. Outside of initial compost layer and mulch, in-ground figs require little care outside occasional watering. Once large enough, they become drought tolerant and little to no water will be required; a few years down the road though.

County extension office will have recommended cultivators and best practices for your area.

google: "north carolina extension office fig"

https://pender.ces.ncsu.edu/2012/07/figs-the-forgotten-fruit/

http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/producing-tree-fruit-for-home-use

https://guilford.ces.ncsu.edu/2016/05/fabulous-figs/

http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/vegetables/tree_fruits_nuts/hgic1353.html

Thanks for the links. I've been looking everywhere and it seems like 10' is a good size to maintain so that you can still reach the fruit.

Does that sound reasonable?

It's up to you and how much room you have. Do a google image search for fig trees / fig tree pruning to see the two techniques.

1. central leader then have it split into an open vase.

2. no central leader and having the split occur in the soil or right at the base. I prefer this because it opens up way more. Easier to reach figs, more shade at base to keep weeds down, and maximizes sunlight for branching vs growth.

Diagram here:

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1893495/fig-tree-pruning

Thank you----very helpful!!!

If I did it again, twenty feet away from each other on all sides is a fair minimum for an orchard in which you don't expect dieback.

However, figs can without effort do well very close to each other (I have trees planted only several feet apart). Not in a commercial orchard sense, but only in every other sense. It can require more direction of the branches, and selective pruning, but hey, that's what winter is for.

WOW, you must get a ton of figs! So jealous! I don't have the room to do this, but I get the idea. I guess if I prune the tops I'll still be able to get the fruit from the sides. Maybe once I pick my favorites I'll get cuttings and place them in new spots (once I chop down the useless trees I have) or just get rid of the poor performers and let the good ones spill over.

Thanks Omelette!

No problem, dogcatlady :)I actually don't get many figs - least not lately, here in nc. That's because most of my trees were planted several years ago in the open. They've already died to the ground once, and the late cold snap here stripped them of all fruit and most leaves. They've recovered now, but I don't expect bumper crops.

Your plan to only keep productive varieties is right on, still it's easy to get attached even to loser figs! My heaviest fruiters are without a doubt the English brown turkey (likes to put on absurd amount of fruit from year one) followed by the Brunswick fig (produces heaps of giant figs, has a very pleasing and graceful growth habit and striking leaves)

On taking cuttings - they root most of the time - air layering is 100% successful with them however - using the strength of the mother to speed up rooting works great.

lastly, don't be jealous! It actually has taken me several years just to learn the figs intolerance of open spaces here in cold weather, and which varieties are worth planting with limited space. Location again is paramount. I have climbed a fig tree here in Raleigh which has a trunk wider than a large man could reach around, which was as tall as the three story house it was planted next to. This was all thanks to a superb microclimate, next to a house, in a clearing in the forest. You don't need lots of space so much as you need good space!

many good lucks with your fig adventure - they are a blast!