That's just how the crown of the plant looks. You can cut those sticks down further but there isn't much you can do to get rid of them 100%. Eventually most will turn to sawdust or be eaten by dead wood feasting bugs, or otherwise turn brittle and snap off. The plant can and will generate shoots/buds where those sticks were but it takes time (years).

Thanks spring wood,

ok, as long as I know that it is ok. It was put in in 2009 and it has grown a bit but realy not that much in 7 years but I guess you are saying it is a slow grower.

what fertilizer should I put on it.

thanks

Here is what I would do! Dig it up and plunk in bucket of water. Next day, pull the roots apart and separate the growing parts from the old wood. Replant the ones with roots and green stalks. If you can't pull the roots apart, then cut the roots making sure each of the branches has as many roots as possible. If you find insects or rotted roots while you are dividing they, hose off the roots very well and then replant. Keep them well watered and do not fertilize! Use a bag of regular potting soil - not organic.

If it gets real hot - then cover with a box with breathing holes or replant a in shady spot if you have one. You could also put the new plants in pots so you could move them out of hot sunshine. Lyban, the crown will probably never regrow. If you are a gambler - then leave the dead part in a container of water and see if it sprouts. Where are you located? It looks like there is winter damage or the plant dried out one year ago or longer. I would also NOT put the divisions back in the original spot in the garden. When you put into a container - be sure to use the same soil from the top to the bottom of the container - nothing over the drainage holes and do not layer anything on the bottom of the pot. Water well, if there is good drainage you won't over water.

Your
question is good. I have the same problem in last year with alovera.
At that time I just take it out and cut the dead parts of it and replant it.
Now it’s OK. I think you can cut the dead parts. I had seen an essay paper on
the hydrangeas roots by thesis writing service.
It will help you in this case.

Ophoenix,

thanks for that info. I am in the Montreal area, zone 3-4

i think I will give what you suggested a try.

LOL how about dig it out ...put in the hospital part of your yard...and try something new......just saying

custom thesis, I have no idea what value a thesis writing website could possibly have for anyone growing a hydrangea!! Promoting that website on this forum is considered spam - shame on you!!!!And you cannot compare a succulent plant with no woody portions (aloe vera) to a shrub (hydrangea). They neither grow in the same manner nor have any similar properties......other than they are both alive.

Zone 3/4 is at the bottom of the lower range of adaptability and hardiness for a big leaf hydrangea. Yours has experienced significant damage due to winter cold and I am impressed it is still even alive!! That cold damage has included root damage as well as branch dieback, which is why the plant looks so half hearted. To have generated any flowers at all, it must be one of new wood bloomers, like Endless Summer or similar.

Ophoenix's suggestion is sound. Dividing shrubs is tricky at best but her suggestion is the best way to go about it. And growing it in a container will allow you to move into a protected location for the winter, which in your climate is very appropriate! Or you could select a hardier form of hydrangea, like H. arborescens or paniculata, which are far less likely to be affected by your winter cold.