Disagree -- look at the lower part where the side wall has been tiled -- the additional tile overlaps this wall at the corners, and thus the ends aren't visible. As long as they cut *that* set evenly, everything should be great. Can't tell for sure from your photo, but it looks pretty well done.

Won't this be covered up by the tile on the other two walls? Look at the corners where the title is already laid on the abutting walls - it looks fine to me but you need to look at it from another angle to get a better sense.

Thanks all! acm and izeve, what you are saying makes complete sense. I feel stupid. This is why I asked. Thank you so much for your insight. I'll watch out for the edges on the two adjacent walls.

I'm not looking at the tile... I'm only seeing the glaring omission of any continuous waterproof membrane over the Durock! And nary a "pro" has weighed in yet? Astounding! Hit redial, fire the contractor and bring in someone who knows and follows current standards. This is not acceptable!

nuthin, I'm guessing since they used a membrane on the corner joints, they installed a vapor barrier between the Durock and the studs. I believe that's all that's needed.

The waterproofing is what stood out to me as well. I always want my waterproofing on top of the backer board.

What is behind the Durock? Is there a poly vapor barrier?

The lack of a water proofing membrane was also my first observation. Cement board is not waterproofing, it is a material that does not deteriorate when exposed to water. Just another observation, the neo-corner shelf(seat) seems very thin and lacking any real support and could easily crack if one were to put any force on it.

Graham

My significant other is not willing to scrap it and start over, unfortunately. I wish it was done right but I am not in control. Thank you for your input everyone.

You really have two choices and both involve a do over if there is not waterproofing system in place. Redo now or redo later when you have a moldy rotting mess.

From what I see, that is a nice install. The shower backer is 100% Durock with the joints treated and all the corners waterproofed. It's always best to reference applicable building codes and manufacturer's design manuals before making defect claims. Correct construction means and methods are not based on what you see on TV or the internet.

USG Durock Install

Bubbly... you certainly can get a multitude of opinions here. Installation looks good, corners are correct and as has been said, when it is complete will look great.

"The shower backer is 100% Durock with the joints treated and all the corners waterproofed."

That's great of the water only hits the corners........................

Or collects sitting water in the alcove... Methinks the two builders weighing on here (yes, you GTG and Buildex) have missed the boat entirely, and are reinforcing substandard trade practices by placating the OP. The proof will be in the pudding as the Durock absorbs inevitable moisture over time which in turn will lead to failure of the OPs tile.

Truthfully, just because there is redguard does not even mean it is applied to the properly mil thickness. If he is going to skimp with waterproofing what makes anyone think that is done properly either.

When deciding if your bathroom shower is installed correctly, do you listen to a $5 billion company (USG) or 2 anonymous internet posts?

You can throw around gross earning all you like Buildex. I would still fire you from my site if you tried to pass this off as a waterproof, tile ready surface that is to current standards. Nuff said.

PS: Read the following thread with real pros serving the goods:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3242090/to-membrane-or-not-to-membrane?n=58

OK, I read it, did you?

From the Durock installation instructions;

http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/durock-cement-board-system-guide-en-SA932.pdf

Water proofing can be below or above the cement board. Not both. Not neither, except at corners. This is doomed to failure as constructed. It's pay me now, or pay me later. It will be more $$$ later, as here will be mold remediation involved. The use of porous stone as the top layer assures that this won't last very long until ''later''.

And you listen to the TCNA.

The guy is doing a great job. You should be very happy, especially since he's installing the tile with thinset and not glue.

"And you listen to the TCNA."

If using cement board, should the waterproof membrane go on top of or behind the board?

For thin-set applications (TCNA Handbook detail SR614), you will see that a waterproof membrane can be installed on top of, OR BEHIND, the cement board. However, some manufacturers require that the waterproof membrane be used on the front and a vapor membrane on the back. This tends to vary according to the manufacturer.

https://www.tcnatile.com/resources/faqs.html

https://www.tcnatile.com/faqs/63-steam-rooms.html

.

https://www.tcnatile.com/images/pdfs/Binder6_Handbook-Committee_6-20-16.pdf

looks alright to me.
the is set correctly with the spacers and looks even.
especialy once the other two walls will be tiled it should look perfect.
sometimes it looks a bit uneven due to the origibal walls been uneven since its an older home im guessing.

And to add to the above, while the water proofing can go behind the cement board, best practices would have it be on top. Stone, being porous, will allow much more water through the face of the assembly than would a ceramic or porcelain. You can and will have some issues with waterlogged stone tiles when your water proofing is to the rear of he assembly. And people tend to want to know why their expensive marble stays dark and doesn't dry out even after a day of leaving the door ajar. Just finished inspecting that very situation.

Also, as a personal preference, waterproofing on the top is easier to see, and easier to see if done incorrectly. There are a lot of ways to do water proofing incorrectly, and having the actual membrane on top, where it is easy to photograph during the process, makes it easier to spot problems before they start. Such as the above, with the weird, presumably hybrid, but incorrect, attempt.

With the TCNA standards posted above, the installer is clearly given (3) choices. Just that the contractor chooses option 1 and installs a continuous membrane floor liner that extends 1 foot above the high point of the floor, he is still meeting all current install standards.

If someone has the opinion that option 2 is better, then please be fair to the owner and contractor by stating this is your opinion or preference. Just that a post has a red box around option 3 in the TCNA standards, it still does not limit the different 'Options' that are industry standards.

This discussion seems to be dominated by strong opinions that TCNA Membrane Option 2 is their preference. This looks like a good membrane installation practice. Following the USG Durock install manual or TCNA option 1 are also good and correct install practices.

No, the red guard over the seams mixes the systems. IF there is poly under the cement, placing anything but thinset at the corners is not kosher. No double barriers that trap moisture. Poly or roofing felt is also subject to more damage during installation, and that damage can remain hidden behind walls. Vapor barrier behind the walls is only optional when the material covering the walls itself is waterproof, like cultured marble. Tile and grout ain't waterproof. Tile and grout requires water proofing.

Any Pro that doesn't do water proofing, and explain why They are doing it, and the additional costs associated with it, is not acting in their customer's best interest, despite the fact that they skate around the edges of ''required''. A Pro offers Professional installations. Not the cheapest. If you don't, your competitor will.

Common sense might suggest that we look to the cause of failures. After all, isn't that the concern here? For those of us who actually have done thousands of installations over 33 years with no failures, we might actually know something. BuildEx is right on.

It is important to keep-in-mind that codes are "MINIMUM" standards/requirements and as such they do not guarantee optimal performance. The reality here is, that unless specified otherwise the installer is required to use materials and install them as specified in accordance to the Manufactures installation procedures to meet the requirements set forth within the code.

Showers are a good example where the minimum code may not be sufficient to ensure long term system performance. The two most significant issue has always been that the installation procedures are not followed precisely and that there are elements such as caulking that require ongoing maintenance to ensure continued performance. The application of a continuous waterproofing membrane immediately under the tile is specifically designed to overcome these concerns.

On a rainy day, do you put your rain coat on first or last for the best protection against getting wet?

Graham

Yup this amateur has only tiled 2 of her own bathrooms - with full continuous waterproof membrane I might add. But I can spot a *hit-show install when I see it as - thank you Tundra and Sophie - have clearly underlined. The shelf will collect pooling water, the marble will stain and this house of cards will start to fail. The fact 4 + pros weigh in with the thumbs up on this crap install merely underlines the fact that consumers must be diligent in vetting their installers. And to quote USG marketing material (that the lawyers no doubt approved of) of course indemnifys Durock of any responsibility from said failures when the install ends up looking like the one we see here.

Has anyone noticed the lack of fasteners???!!! I'm not reading the entire thread again to check.:)

Fasteners? A tile leveling system?

We don't need no stinking' fasteners! A little Liquid Nails and it be awlrite!

Where did you purchase your tile selection? I have been looking for something similar and me and my fiance finally agree on the look. If you can please let me know