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Tomato leaves drying

10 years ago

Lots of fruit forming though growth is slow. Some leaves look like those in the picture. And some are dead and dry.

I'm using flora micro and bloom 1:3 in a dwc bucket.


Thoguhts?

Comments (10)

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    i would use the grow component too. A ratio of 5ml micro, 6ml bloom and 7ml grow per us gallon will do the job. If you dont see a turnaround after 3-4 days use a ratio of 6.7,8 per us gallon to increase the EC.

    The 1:3 micro/bloom ratio will result in excessive levels of P which affects the availability of Ca and Fe. Ca interacts with most of the other elements so any Ca issue tends to instigate a raft of other problems

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I will give this a try. Thank you very much.

    I am curious though, isn't that a great excess of nitrogen during the fruiting stage?

    I'm sitting around 800ppm

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Toms require elevated levels of N, K and Ca during the flowering and fruiting stage. Most folks reduce N which, in hydro, will also cut the Ca levels because the N is supplied by calcium nitrate. In this case, a reduction of N will increase the risk of BER due to the lack of Ca Commercial growers control N.K and Ca ratio`s by using a combination of potassium and calcium nitrate. With store bought nutrients you can only alter the ratio of A and B not individual elemental components. GH.3 part is slightly more flexible than a 2 part but is still restricted by the fixed elemental makeup of each part.

  • 10 years ago

    Thank you for the detailed explanation. I have much to learn.


    Some of my early fruit succumbed to BER..

  • 10 years ago

    Most commercial nutrients assume you`ll use tapwater with some calcium in it. If you use reverse osmosis or rainwater it will come up short and you`ll likely have to supplement with calmag or calcium nitrate which is cheaper :) If you have hard water with a high calcium carbonate content, use nitric acid to control the PH rather than the usual phosphoric acid based PH down. The nitric will convert the calcium carbonate into calcium nitrate which is utilised by the plants and therefore doesnt build up as is the case with excessive P from phos acid PH down. Toms require no more than 40ppm of P at any stage.

  • 10 years ago

    I use tap water after letting it stand for 24 hours. I don't think I have any way of telling what the ppms of a particular element are with the nutes I am using and without access to a lab ;) Maybe I could figure it out using maths...

  • 10 years ago

    you may be able to get a report from the water company assuming its mains supplied. If your kettle scales up you can be confident its not soft water ;)

  • 10 years ago

    I guess the manufacturer feed table is for canabis. Its not even close to any other user-based recommendations I have read.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Toms dont bloom in response to photoperiod so thats a clue ;)

    The mid bloom mix in the chart (without any additives) is hellishly high in P with a K:N ratio of 1.36, the mix i recommended has a more realistic level of P and a K:N ratio of 1.44 so it contains less N or more K depending on which way you look at it.

  • 10 years ago

    Hey hex2006 can you message me on here or demonicriver@gmail.com

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