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Black and blue salvia

Becky
7 years ago

My black and blue salvia is about 1 and 1/2 years old now. I got it in March of 2015. When I first got it it stayed in bloom for quite some time, and eventually in about November, it lost its flowers. I was quite surprised to see new flowers bloom in the winter, but sure enough in January I had a few flowers reaching out past the edge of the balcony to get the max amount of sun. (Even though the whole edge of the balcony gets direct sun as nothing is above me but a small gutter and a roof above me. After those January flowers, I haven't gotten anymore. I live in Savannah Georgia where there is really only two seasons...winter and summer. It starts to get hot in March (reaching high 80's), and then the heat really hits us May-September ( high 80's through May, high 90's breaking 100 June-early September). It finally cools down in November and our coldest months begin December -February (occasionally going below freezing, but usually around 40-60°) in about March, my salvia plant was looking rough. It had a bunch of dying leaves and didn't look happy in its pot. I reported and trimmed the dead leaves off. I used an organic compost and organic potting soil, and it's leaves grew back so quickly, literally within hours. Every time I checked outside, it had a new leaf! Despite its improvement, it has yet to grow any stems to produce any new flowers. One branch of the plant has completely died, but there are still 2 left that are still standing and growing. This is my first salvia plant... what am I doing wrong??

PS: current high temp: 96; low: 84.

direction plant is facing: 110 degrees SE.

both partial and direct sun depending on time of day.

Watered when potting medium is dry (once a day, or until medium dries out-2-3 days...high humidity here.

todays humidity: 78% ; rest of the week humidity: 71-77%.


attached are photos. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated !!

Comments (6)

  • Jean
    7 years ago

    Tough to say for certain.

    My best long-distance guess is that it has a root problem. Tip it out and look at it.

  • rich_dufresne
    7 years ago

    No plant will develop new stems if the plant ws a cutting with no nodes under the soil. If there are side shoots close to the soil, the plant may layer and produce new side shoots. This type of cutting will also have fewer chances of producing roots. Layer the lower stems if you can or repot the plant so that the first active node is at least at soil surface level, preferably a quarter inch under.

  • Becky
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Thank you. It was not a cutting. It was a full in bloom plant rather large I purchased from Home Depot. Should I repot in smaller pot now that it is a smaller plant

  • rich_dufresne
    7 years ago

    There are important differences between coastal Savannah and inland Birmingham. Besides being overall warmer, the ocean produces breezes that moderate both day and night temperatures, making it possible to have microclimates that can somewhat approximate cloud forests. Even though I am in the middle of North Carolina, I've worked with a customer from John's Island just south of Charleston, where I've observed this effect.

    Soil type is also very important, especially in a rainy climate. Drainage is important for Salvias, and raised beds help a lot, especially in flat areas subject to heavy rain, such as in Baton Rouge. I've observed gardens there also.

    Before planting, observe the roots for color and smell for a pleasant earthy, not a rotting, scent. The latter represents a weak or dead root system. Also, besides light colored roots, guaraniticas should show signs of stolons. These side shoots eventually form new stems, mostly emerging at the rim of the pot. This is necessary for guaraniticas to survive.

    Hopefully, there are nodes on the part of the plant that was plunged into the rooting medium. Stolons usually develop on mature plants, so their absence does not necessarily mean there are no functional nodes under the soil.

    You can compensate for the absence of a working underground node by planting deeper to include the one just above ground, at least to have it at ground level. This will promote stolon formation or at least layering of side stems, which is the first step in forming a new root system.

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    7 years ago

    I am far from a Salvia expert and in a different zone than you, but for many years I have grown Salvia guaranitica Black & Blue in pots since it isn't fully hardy here, and I can think of some potential issues. It looks like you have a vine that winds along your balcony railing. Is there shade from the vine or other plants or is the Salvia plant truly in full sun? Mine tends to like many hours of sun. Other problems that might be happening relate to the soil. You said that when you repotted it, it grew rapidly but then languished. The soil you used may be too fine-textured which would damage the roots by not allowing adequate drainage and oxygen, or it may have too much nitrogen which would lead to too much leafy growth at the expense of flowers (though with the yellow tone in your leaves, I think the first is more likely than the second.) IME I let the soil just dry between waterings of my B&B - I don't let it stay wet, but the leaves let me know if it needs watering. The watering bulb may be keeping the soil too wet. You may want to try this plant again with a better-draining potting soil and without the compost. Generally Home Depot soils tend to be too fine-textured and moisture retentive for optimal drainage for something like Salvia guaranitica. (I am assuming that since you bought the plant at HD, the soil may have come from there as well.)

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