Underwatering? Just guessing.

Ok more pics coming up

Floorwalker, underwatering generally results in drying out leaves &/or shriveling up.

Not wishing to be rude but pitch black pix don't show anything.

Mush tends to be from OVERwatering.

Sorry Inga, I appreciate you tried w/ more pix, but they show nothing, except a very peaty looking mix. Is it hard to your touch?

Does that glazed pot have a drainage hole at the bottom?

Any chance you could take the whole plant over to the LIGHT & share more pix so we can actually see the mix & base of the leaves?

That's wayyy too peaty a mix for those plants & is contributing to rot. At the very least you need to amend it w/ perlite (50/50 of each) & repot the whole thing. Can you pls show a pix of the roots you found?

I'm sorry I made the pictures with a baby attached lol which he always is. It's in the baby room and the pot is heavy. I will make better pics when I can. The soil is a cactus mix which I thought was fast draining. The pot has a big hole at the bottom. I have never watered it that heavy that water would run out. I don't have the mushy leaves anymore and I haven't found any new ones since removing them and not watering it. Thank you for taking the time to respond sorry the pictures aren't light enough. If at first you don't succeed try, try again!

Thx for the additional pix, things seem to look OK from the top.

Except that's a very peaty looking mix that looks like it's not fast draining. I think most of us would suggest something less organic, like adding Perlite, (mixed 50/50 w/ this soil to make it faster draining) as I suggested above.

Hopefully others will see this & have some ideas.

Pls tell us what the roots looked like when you repotted it.

However often you're watering it, reduce by half. These don't need to be watered more than every two weeks (weekly absolute max). Over-watering will make the leaves mushy and roots may start to rot in extreme cases.

Yes I have let the plant completely dry out between watering, I guess it really needs so little.

Those are the strongest of the snake plants to grow. They can take a lot and then start to grow new shoots to replace the old dead ones. I like what Karen said about a hole in the bottom of the pot which is in another pot that can hold water in. So she uses spacers to prop the inner pot up from the other outside pot so not to drown the roots system. Any time you change the environment, seems you suffer some leaf loss. Should be okay once you take it outside for summer sun vacation.

Hi everybody, I have same problem. I think it has not any relation with watering. We know how to do it. If you have found any solution for is please lat me know too.

Water is the biggest problem. When it is warm and sunny, they love a lot of water but watch if temps drop. If the roots start to rot from too much water retention then the top part of the plant starts to die due to no water even if the bottom is drenched.

So the three big things to watch out for is; Water, Temp, and Light. Each item is a story in itself.

To add to Stush's good advice 2 more things to check: that the pot has a drainage hole & the soil drains well.

Pls check that the soil has not become hard to your touch, which would impede the plant taking up water when you water.

KarenS, NYC

I have the exact same problem! Turning mushing on the sides of the top. Only my problem started after I moved my indoor potted plant outside for a few days. Soil is pretty dry to the touch and I NEVER over water them. Pot also has proper drainage.

anyone figure it out?

Sorry Giorgi,

But there is no other answer, it's either too much water, improper drainage or both. There are not other possibilities.

How do you know the pot has proper drainage? How do you know you're not overwatering? How do you know when to water?

You said your soil is pretty dry, is it also HARD TO YOUR TOUCH?

Pls provide a pic including of the soil, so we can see for ourselves.

It’s not hard to the touch.

I checked the roots, they’re absolutely fine and there is new growth down at the bottom of the same leaf.

I rarely water them. I pretty much just ignore them and they flourish. It’s about a 4 foot plant. It literally wasn’t until I took it outside for a few days and brought it back in that it started to look like that. At first I thought the tips had burned but no.

its ok. I’m just going to keep watching it and checking the roots.

Giorgi,

Maybe the plant went into shock being transferred to a hot dryer environment too soon? I never heard of them turning mushy but dried up and browning. I had plants digress from shock but usually rebounds a few weeks after. Mostly the opposite of bringing them in for the winter months.

When in a hotter environment, they need a lot more water. I try to water them in a tray and then make sure the tray is empty after 5 minuets. When temps are over 90, I leave them in water. Never, Never water from the top and let water into the crown of the plant. I know some times it happens and I try to blow the water out with a straw I keep around.

Was it wet down at the bottom of the roots? That's unfortunate; still no pic, doesn't help folks trying to help you.

I’ve had the same problem with my two big potted snake plants. They’ve been fine for years...no change to environment or watering...I water every 3-4 weeks. The leaves have just started flopping over and are mushy at the base. I’m wondering if it’s because I recently watered the leaves and not just the soil...Georgi and others...have you watered leaves?

If you wet the leaves you must remember to let it dry completely and not set in that state very long. Once rot sets in, you in big trouble. Rot has to be stopped or it will continue to take over the plant. Remove from pot and inspect the roots for damage or rot. Let set out for a thorough drying. Maybe even dust with sulfer. A little baking soda sprayed on helps minor infections.

I can't believe someone said it can only be watering - WRONG. It's most likely a bacterial infection once watering is ruled out. Plants can be attacked by so many pathogens. I can't help more than this. I learned because my chinese evergreen plant was not watered for over a wee, soil dry but not dehydrated, all old soil removed and new soil added. New leaves being pushed out but still getting the rotting leaves. They straight up turn to rotted squishy slimy grossness, starting from the tip toward stem.

Winston,

In general (which is all we can do here with limited resources), a healthy plant tends to stay healthy until some thing changes in it's well being. The #1 cause of failure of Sansevieria is over watering. No way to tell for sure but once conditions occur that distress the plant, it gives open attacks of different disease and pathogens. A healthy plant can fend off most attacks given it.

I wanted to comment on this, in part to bump it up to the top -- because there is so much good advice here on maintaining Sans. I no longer have many Sans (many of mine were just too heavy to lift so I gave to friends who planted in the ground) -- but I do have some unusual ones -- pinguicula, Kirkii coppertone, variegated masonia, dwarf Erhenbergii, francisii, variegated hahnii, and what was sold as a Lavranos 1970 (which I think is really just a large and spreading ballyi), etc.

I am always fussing with them because they would be hard to replace without spending $$$$ and lots of time hunting them down on the Internet. I REGULARLY have to hold myself back from watering, and remind myself that no Sans of mine ever died because it had to wait a day or two for water. But I have killed a few GEMS with just one over-watering, particularly if they were in plastic pots. Water, root rot, death -- and pretty fast. Even attempts to propagate from leaves failed.

I also have to remind myself that Sans are slow growers. Mine have grown in spurts. Being in Florida, I see serious growth in spring -- March, April, May -- and then moderate or none after that. Although I piddle around with various mixes -- organic, soil-based but lots of pumice, pure pumice etc. -- I find Sans can tolerate almost anything, except the dreaded overwatering. I keep written records on ALL my plants (most are Gasteria, Haws and some Euphorbias) -- but I am especially cautious with my Sans. They are both very sturdy and a tad delicate. Thanks to everyone on this thread who commented and offered experience and advice.

I have lost 3 of my 12 in the last few months. They were going mushy just above the roots at the base of the leaves and I do know they're not suffering from over watering or incorrect soil. They've been in the same spot since I bought them a year ago and rarely need watered. I was hoping someone would have an answer because it's hard for a snake plant to die from overwatering when it hasn't been. I'm guessing it's bacterial since I'm not finding any bugs.

No pictures Amanda? Problems like these are hard to diagnose due to too many problems that could attack a good plant. Mite? Which are some times berried into the stock feeding on the plant. Fungus which usually shows itself with white stuff with the rot. Bacteria which may need a microscope to see. When problems start to show themselves, I start with a safety wash of mouthwash mixed with baking soda. Helps with all three mentioned problems. For mite I use Sevin spray. Could buy miticide but is expensive but it works best. The mouthwash trick is cheap but don't over do it all the time.

I've had some sans for more than 20 years. This year I've had to replace 60% of the plants bought in the last 8 months in commercial locations that are well out of reach so they aren't getting water from someone else!!! There is certainly something other than water going on in the big box store plant stock. I get the same weird mush that affects only some of the stalks in the pot.

The roots are not black, the soil is not wet, yet the leaves rot to a stinking mush. I'd live to know the problem & a cure.

Plant Lady,

Seems you have a disease. There are a few that could spell disaster for you. One is Anthracnose of Sansevieria trifasciata.

"This pathogen is host specific to Sansevieria and will not infect other crops. This disease first appears as small brown spots that often looked water soaked. As the disease progresses these spots will become increasingly larger and have the ability to completely stretch across the entire leaf. Dr. Norman’s research is showing that preventative sprays of these chemicals are effective at controlling Sansevieria anthracnose: Pageant, Heritage, Torque, Concert, thiophanate methyl, Affirm, Palladium, Disarm, Cease and Milstop. This typically isn’t a crop that needs to be sprayed and might present an opportunity to pick up some extra chemical sales in the south. There is no cure for this disease, prevention only so staying on top of this disease is key."

Second is red spider mites. "It is better to use 3 in rotation if you want to eradicate them. Some good ones are Floramite, Avid, Pylon, Forbid, and Akari."

You have to inspect the ends very carefully to see if it is mites or even something like meales.

Myself, I would buy some cheap mouth wash with alcohol and make sure it does not have fluoride in it, some do. Mix a spoonful of Baking Soda in and shake well and spray down the plants in question. May help.

Hello I am having a similar problem and wondering if anyone can help? I bought my plant last month and it suddenly started to get a few soggy leaves. I was very careful with the watering but I wonder was it overwatered prior to me buying it.

I took it out of the soil and noticed the soil was damp and compacted around the roots. So I have cleared it all off completely and wondered if it can be saved? Soggy leaves have been cut off (photo of one soggy leaf included). I've included photo of plant, roots and current soil but will get new soil to ensure no contamination.

Put it into new soil and see that it is very free-draining. Don't water it after planting, wait a few days. Then it should be ok to start watering delicately and observing the plant all the time. Cocofiber is cheap and that is why it is used in mass production, but I feel it must be get rid of ASAP when we bring our new plants home.

Great thanks. I have repotted with a very sandy/gritty mix and good drainage pots. Now the wait begins 🤞🤞

Ashlee, Could be frost damage?? Make sure you cut the soft rotted tissue off the leaf. Rest of leaf should be okay. They rebound quite well. Keep in a warm spot. Give as much light as possible until it at least recovers. Soil is not as important as conditions. Warm, on the dry side and bight light. During the hot summer months, I give them as much water as possible. Even sitting in water once temps reach 90 or more.

Now, if a problem should arise, then the over watering could spell problems. If healthy, no problems.

I'm having the same issues. Leaves rotting and looking like I've overrated them. I don't have any pictures as I keep cutting them off. I haven't watered the plant in two months, it's in a south facing window, I have about 5 dime sized holes in a ten inch pot, and I recently added more perlite to the soil because of this being an issue. It has been happening since before Christmas and it's mid-March now. I'm wondering if this is simply an issue of sanseveria not liking plastic pots or having some sort of chemical reaction to plastic that causes rotting. Thoughts?

Not at all Jessica, Most of my plants are in plastic pots.

It all depends on which snake plant you own. They do like more water than what your giving them. They don't like to be in soggy soil.

Hard to decide if it is poor living conditions (which you say you give them great conditions). or if it is a disease or a fungus attack. Need good pictures to see.

Bad advise could be worse than no advise so we need more.

Some of my plants look their worse this time of year before I start to bring them out for summer.

Being in Canada, I didn’t think the August sunlight would hurt healthy looking newly potted indoor sans plants until I noticed leaves began to droop and become mushy. Once i realized the leaves were actually HOT to the touch, I put them in shade for a couple of days. Unfortunately it was too late and several leaves were lost as mush.

Plants get heatstroke too. :(

Henry, Purchased in quantity and they was rapidly grown in hot humid conditions and need some time to form new roots and get accustomed to their new home. Should have keep them in a cool shade and hold off water for a week and after a few months then bring them to bright shade. They were in shock as well as heat stroke. There tuff and should recover but damage to leaves are done.