I totally agree with Ben. Looks good to me.

Pot it!

Jane

Catasetinae are notorious for easily rotting. I agree with Jane and Ben that is it worth it to give it a shot. Worst case you are out of a little potting media and have to sanitize a pot, if it does not make it. Best case you get new growth in the spring.

But remember we are entering dormancy periods for these guys. So I would pot it in most media (sphagnum is my go to for catasetinae) to start. However I would only water it if the bulb starts to severely dehydrate and shrivel. Then in the spring when it produces a new growth and those roots are 3-5 inches long I would start regular watering again.

Side note. If you have a fungicide, I would treat it before potting it. If you don't, don't worry about it.

Side note 2. It looks like the rot ate away the growing eyes at the bottom. I am not completely sure from the picture. You may get a keiki from somewhere on the bulb. So look out for growth there also.

resting the bulb on moist moss would encourage the rot to grow, these bulbs can rot very fast... bad suggestion, the base needs to dry up and develop a callous. That's why I suggested a top layer of perlite to keep it dry. Once the bottom is calloused you can resume normal care, from the picture looks like there is a dormant eye at base. I would pot it as I described and let plant rest till you see new growth and several roots. The plant will go dormant and will not require much (if any) water till spring. I would also hold back water till see a bit of shrinkage in bulb and then only water lightly.

Ben - First, there is a polite way to say you disagree. Like simply "I disagee." Saying "bad sugestion" is just poor form and rude. We all have different ways of doing things. We are all free to share our ideas. We should build on each others' ideas and all improve as growers.

Second, my recommendation is to let the moss dry after potting for the resting season, not to rest on wet. Moss is very difficult to work with while it is dry.

Re-read my response and you will notice our suggestions are similar. You just recommended perlite and I did not. Also I assume resting will start now. You assume a new growth will develop prior to resting. My assumption is based on my experience with my catasetinae collection in my zone.

Shelia - I think placing perlite under the pseudobulb is a fine idea by the way.

Yes Darlene your method is slightly different than Ben's. And it is wrong to say bad suggestion. Especially in the world of orchids. My method of growing would be harmful to many others and visa versa. I've observed many various and different methods that are equally successful. This example on this thread is very similar as Darlene explains. But if it was extremely different it still may be right.

It seems Ben's intentions are to be helpful but needs a little brushing up on etiquette. I try to remember to use the words "may" and "probably" in this format.

Sometimes an experienced grower is sure that methods described are wrong. But in some cases there is overlooked components. A big one is latitude. Latitude matters in solar exposure. And one of the most commoditized orchids, the phalonopsis, is in need of different instructions for solar exposure based on latitude. I'm sure there are other examples.

Darlene, I was amused by the comment "bad suggestion", simply because it's a comment very similar to what my DH will make often (bad idea!). You never have to guess what his thoughts are....like it or not, he's going to tell you! He is a 78 yr old rancher and it's difficult to teach him etiquette. I do keep trying though.

Ben, are you in Florida? A dilemma I had years ago when I tried growing these plants was that they were NOT going into dormancy. I finally stripped the plants of foliage. If this young psb starts a new growth can it be encouraged to continue growing? Or does any size plant require the totally dormant period?

A top layer of perlite doesn't work for me, my GH has very strong air currents and it would blow off the plant. I have a bag of fine charcoal chips that I could layer on top or small gravel.

the "bad suggestion" comment stands, because that is what it is, I do not post to hurt anyone's feelings or to be rude. I may not be the most politically correct poster, however my comments are originated from having personally seen the results of your suggestion. I have grown a couple of hundreds of catasetums, cycnoches, and mormodia and have made this particular mistake several times,, Each time the results were very similar... the rot continued and the bulb died. Placing a bulb with a rotted end on top of moist moss is not something that should be recommended for obvious reasons. That is why I suggested a layer of perlite tween moss and rotted base of bulb, to give the rotted end a chance to dry up and heal while the tiny roots extend down to moss..... a layer of charcoal would work as well, the key point is to reduce moisture at base of the bulb so it can heal.

I am in Florida and did my orchid growing in Broward county.

With regard to dormancy... these plants will teach you to be patient... I had bought some bulbs at redlands festival from south South America vendor and had to wait over a year for plant's growth cycle to kick in, likely due to opposing seasons. Eventually plant adjusted and bloomed normally.

I am confident that there are many different and successful methods to grow orchids. There are a variety of reasons that causes this. In this situation there is a big difference in the climate between Ohio and Florida. With Broward County humidity Darlene's method might not work and same for Ben. At least it would be a significant factor in the calculus.

So I contend one must be careful before stating any absolute thoughts. At least in the world of orchids. There are obvious situations like sunburn is bad. I swear by my potting methods of terra cotta pots with lava rock only but I do not think it is an answer for all growers. I think I'm a minority with this method. But I feel that this provides me with the best chances...