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What is the soil this grass is growing in like? Soil pH? Amount of organic matter in the soil? Soil life? Drainage?

kimmq is kimmsr

Without seeing it close up, it looks like what I have in my front yard - wirestem muhly grass. It pulls pretty easily when the ground is damp. Anything that kills it also kills the grass, so hand-pulling is the only option. I did pull a lot this spring (it got green before the grass). I will go at it again next spring.

Hi kimm and cooper-I am way up in Upstate NY near Syracuse which is long winters with massive amounts of snow. The soil seems to be ok, as far as I know. I need a new pH kit but last time I tested it, it was fine. Not sure what you mean about "amount of organic matter in soil". Not sure what you mean about "soil life". The drainage...on this side of town, this is more prone to clay soil and has rocks in it. This particular weird spot, as well as the others, I dug them all out, put in sterilized topsoil, then reseeded with the same seed that I use on the rest of my lawn.....and the spots eventually came back. These spots are mushy and have that look and feel like a case of grubs except I can't find any grubs. I do see other lawns around town with this too. I have asked a bunch of different lawn professionals and they don't have a clue.

Soil is composed of the mineral (the sand, silt, and clay particles) air, water, and organic matter which is the vegetative waste that feeds the Soil Food Web or those wee critters that make soil alive. Soil life ranges from the earthworms and ants that we can see to the bacteria and fungi that we cannot see without a microscope.

Soils should have about 6 to 8 percent organic matter in them which helps, in clay soils, to open them up, promote good drainage, and allow plants roots to move around easier. Soil pH, for cool season grasses that we grow, should be in the 6.0 to 7.0 range and nutrients should be balanced.

Where this is growing says there is a soil problem that needs to be looked at. Have you had a good reliable soil test done? Cornell Cooperative Extension Service offers soil testing, although it may seem expensive ($50.00 per sample) but they also offer advice that is based on research, and is most often what lawn
professionals rely on. A good reliable soil test is needed and these simple soil tests may help as well.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

kimmq is kimmsr