Does not seem like it will run at 110V here in US. You probably are in Europe. Let us know how it works out though. Good find.

You are right I live in Holland, there are 110V chips with integrated driver not full spectrum only warm and cool white.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252558895201?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=551469398379&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

But I am pretty sure 110v full spectrum will come too when they can make white LED's for 110v 220v than it will be no problem to make full spectrum ones, change the fosfor and there you go.

Wonderful. I could not find a 110V based one. I can experiment with one or a few for that kind of price. Funny thing is that just two days I was trying to find one with integrated driver and could not find one. Also I wanted a cool white to play with and not a full spectrum anyway. Thanks a lot.

I had many good times in Holland. Had not been there in a while. Best was a week in Noordwijk in 2004.

Another quick question: What kind of heatsink and/or blower you use?

I live in Rijnsburg near Leiden and not far from Noordwijk

I use this heat sink

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380831323705?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

For a 50W LED is a heat sink alone is not enough you need one with a blower you have to get rid of something like 40W of heat.

This is another Led cheap but unlucky 220V again

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252512752104?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=551410172206&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I have ordered that one to just to try

Thanks. Wonder why there are not many options for 110V version.

Yes it is strange, 110V is a big market but I found another power LED's seller are called type C and D and are available for 110 and 220V.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W-50W-70W-90W-100W-150W-Floodlight-SMD-COB-LED-Chip-Lamp-Bulb-Bead-/272446651714?var=&hash=item3f6f15fd42:m:mDk8jUfuzoXt_N29w9MDqQw

Have you already ideas/plans for the housing ? I working as try with a half round PVC gutter of 110mm wide, 45mm deep and 600m long. I will make square holes (about 80x90mm) in it and put aluminum foil at the inside as reflector I will post some pictures when you or others are interested.

I found the same source as you posted on ebay. Initially, I am planning to use some old non-working 4 ft fluorescent fixtures. I will probably not get to it till December when things are a bit slow.

I wonder what kind of a driver circuit it has. Do you know? I would like to figure out if the drive current can be made lower by may be hacking just a resistor. I get a feeling these are driven to the max.

Please do post your pics of the build. I will try to do the same.

As far I can see it has a capacitive dc-dc convertor but to be honest I have trouble to understand the working exactly. The schematics

https://www.google.nl/search?q=capacitive+dc+dc+converter&biw=1074&bih=757&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiGpe7mzbrQAhUGC8AKHSL9A9AQ_AUIBigB

I don't think it is hackable most of it is in the IC chips and it has high voltages so there is a insulating layer on top of the circuit board

Work in progress, waiting for the 220V LED's, two extra heat sinks and some other parts to arrive but here some pictures (as promised) to give an idea what I'm building.

The whole unit.

The cooling, a CPU heat sink and fan, the slits allow the hot air in the front of the LED to escape hopeful will give that extra cooling.

Al. plate (60x110mm) with for show a power LED (not mounted). the four screws connect the plate to the heat sink

Other possibilities, also not mounted just to give an idea

LED combination 10W grow full spectrum + warm and cool white. Maybe I will swap the white ones with royal blue and deep red individual switchable

Two 100 Watt high power LED's cool and warm white, be careful they will dissipate a lot of heat I don't know of the heat sink can handle that. Most of the time I run power LED's at 60->75% of their max power.

This is just a test unit, the next one will have an Al. strip of the same length as the unit, this one is a little too flexible in my idea and maybe some other "enhancements" will be added.

Cool. Clean setups. Wish I could also start on my led projects.

Unit with 50W full spectrum grow LED is up and running, result not bad power draw indeed around 50W electronic components not really warm so probably low losses there. Temperature of the heat is sink 26 - 28 C and front of the LED 42 - 45 C, room temp. around 20 C. Next step the white LED, those Ebay LED's are maybe not as good as the Cree ones but great for cheap try outs. I also have to make the wire layout better 220V is not something to fool around with, better save than sorry :-)

By the way I found the driver chip, so it is not a capacitive dc-dc convertor.

http://www.bpsemi.com/en/Data/BP5132H_EN_DS_Rev_0.9.pdf

Does this 50W led run on 220V directly or is it DC source driven? I have not ordered mine yet. I have to fix yet another immediate problem. The thermostat in my outdoor pond heater failed. The heater is supposed to keep a small hole open in the ice during winter. So this time I decided to be a little more fancy and ordered a wireless relay with temperature sensor (model is Sonoff if you are interested). Can be programmed in Arduino.

It runs directly from the mains,, I will post later a picture of the connection and update when the one with the warm white LED is ready

Some pictures, alright not ready yet but it gives an impression.

!00Watt unit, 2 warm white LED's. waiting for the other LED wiring not ready yet.

Left 220V mains inlet, fuse holder and beside those a 12V relais and a max temp switch ( 50 C. ). Blue wire is grounding. The unit will shut off when:

-1- short circuit fuse blows

-2- overheating (temp. switch + some extra components)

-3- 12V power supply failure relais falls off.

The 100 Watt (2 LED) unit, work in progress :-)

The test unit with 50 Watt full spectrum grow LED (only available for 220V AC), external 12V power supply for the CPU cooler.

WARNING For those who want to use those LED's be careful they are direct connected to the mains !! When you don't know what you are doing don't do it !!

How is the build coming along? Also can you tell what kind of a thermal switch you are using? I was looking at some cheap bimetal switches but apparently they are not very accurate. They have +- 5C error.

Waiting for the 12V relays and the 220V LED's.

I use a switch 55 C no (normal open) but you can choose an other temp if you like. I don't know how exact they are but I think that is not relevant.

http://stores.ebay.com/speed-mart/_i.html?_nkw=Temperature+Switch+Control+Sensor+Thermal+Thermostat++N.O&submit=Search&_sid=1130292079

It is used in a circuit with a capacitor, relays and a resistor so when it close the relay falls off and can't come on again until the power goes off and is applied again by a timer or switch.

Thanks. The thermal switch you linked is KSD301 series and seems like a better option. There is a smaller KSD9700 series with very similar specs. Except that I gather from their Chinese english that the outer metal body of KSD9700 may be connected to one of the pins. Means it will need another layer of insulation. Oh well.

I use the KSD301 in a low voltage (12V or 24V DC) circuit and a relay switched the 220V so if one of the pins is connected to the case it is no problem. I have just tested a KSD301 and the pins are not connected to the case. When you use only a KSD301 to switch the mains off it will come up again when the heat sink cooled down a little. When the unit overheats and shut down I want it to stay down until the next timer cycle or I take action.

Good to know that the KSD301 is insulated. I think I will get both from ebay and test them out. I always liked the idea of a thermal protector in case something goes wrong.