I have no advice because I don't overwinter here in South Florida and they love the climate, but I will say I have killed every Orchid I have ever owned. I just don't understand them! :)

@halfwaythere1(10B) Hard water maybe? I have one orchid still surviving, lots that died.. Read something in the Orchid Digest years ago, said that hard water will actually pull water out of orchids, they can't take the osmotic tension. Lucky thing Adeniums can tolerate hard water.

Yup, Charles. That's all we have here in sunny Southern Cal! If it weren't for hard water we wouldn't have any at all!

Bragu, I'm curious about what you're saying regarding "take a bit of water in my hands and rub the trunk/caudex with my damp hands, and let it soak in". Letting some moisture soak into the caudex because, after all, it really is just a big root? So, the plant will still get benefit of some moisture without the danger of overwatering and potential for root rot?

Thanks, Tyler

tyler

aye, that's what i meant. it gets some moisture … but not too much … yeah, weird i know ...

Always something new to learn on this forum.

Thank you.

Another option to buying plants is to order seed. It's relatively cheap. Sprout you up lots of babies and if you loose a few along the way while you are figuring them out, it's no real loss. Don't give up! You'll get the hang of them. My first winter with adeniums myself. I only have one semi-adult plant and it's doing fine so far, but I have trays of more than 400 seedlings. I've killed a few already but not many. Live and learn.

Yeah. I'd say water moderately maybe once or twice a month so long as the soil doesn't stay damp and it is very dry between waterings. Or try the rubbing thing.

Beneficial microbes cut down on the odds of rot because they compete for space with pathogenic microbes. So, you might want to consider adding a mycorrhizae mix with trichoderma in it. Not necessary by any means, but it can help.

They're similar to bulbs in that they often have a dormancy period (depends on species, dominant traits, etc), except they still like a bit of water. They can tolerate going without water and soil for the winter, but it still is hard on them and can kill them, especially younger ones without enough nutrient reserves.

Did it loose all of it's leaves before you stopped watering or after? If it's growing weakly in the winter, you get a bit more breathing room with rot because it's still active and using more water than a dormant plant.

Firm caudex is good. Dunno how well the heat pad will work for a dormant plant. 55 degrees isn't a huge issue, they don't start getting frost damage until they hit the low 40s, although some can take the mid-high 30s. They don't grow as well in low temperatures, but they won't be killed by weather in the 50s (at least not directly). Rot is always a bigger risk at lower temperatures, but since it is a fungus, that's probably an adaptation to avoid competition, so once it's established, it probably likes warmer temperatures well enough.