I think the problem that many people have in growing these Dendrobiums is the extent of the dryness needed during the drier period in winter.

Looked up the local orchid society records and it flowers in November here.

Once the new canes start to grow you should water and fertilise heavily.

Sorry, not much help, but i have bumped things off by not giving them enough water during the "Dry" period.

Here is a pic. from the local orchid society Flickr pages.

I would leave them grow as they are for now. If there were a lot more bulbs I'd repot. Wait until Spring and 3 weeks after new growth shows, then repot.

Cut the entire cane with the keiki. Strip the leaves. Find a deep pot. Cut the bottom of the cane so the roots of the baby are touching the potting medium filled to the rim of the pot. You want that orchid on the medium, not in it. It will know if it wants its roots in or out of the pot. I like to let the orchid choose. If I used sphagnum I'd kill the plant. My habits needs terra cotta pots and lava rock medium to manage the daily watering...

Please note that many orchid plants force keiksi as a sign of stress. If the plant has no viable eye to grow a new bulb from, it can throw out one or keiks in its drive to survive. I would certainly look at the base of the bulbs and look for signs of rot and see if there are any viable (green) eyes. This den species really likes to dry in tween watering and really benefits from a dry-er than normal winter season. As your plant is growing in sphagnum I see it as a concern. I used to grow my den species in baskets with tree fern chunks packed inside baskets and they did very well.

Great plant! Here's mine from a few years ago:

I would let the keikis be until the spring. As others have mentioned these require a dryish winter rest to bloom. I water mine every 10-14 or so days with the other resting dendrobiums. Oh, and no fertilizer during the rest, which is roughly November to March for me.

Mine is in a plastic pot with a fine bark mix. If the sphagnum in the basket works for your watering habits I would not worry about it. You can always reevaluate in the spring. You dont want to repot if you dont have to this time of year. But be mindful that the sphagnum stays wetter longer. So you will need to adjust your water accordingly.

I started adding 40 to over 50% sphagnum moss into a lot of my cattleya mix almost 2 years ago. I use the moss in plastic and clay pots up to 5 inches. The results have been great because I am a bit stingy with my water regardless of the season. In the summer, I have to watch out for too many consecutive rainy days because the moss wont have time to dry. Moss definitely has its challenges. However i would have cattleya orchid jerky if I grew in lava rocks like Harvey.

My Dendrobium chrysotoxum

Over the last 3 or 4 years I've converted away from a bark and charcoal mix to lava rock. I came across a cattleya that was missed on the conversion. It reminded me why I converted. The mix has completely broken down and the only part alive was in bloom and living on the edge of the pot. I has so many like the in the past. Not a problem anymore. If I was more diligent and repotted sooner it would work. Many around here do that. But lave rock is best for me. And I'm sure what I do would not work with the various invented climates needed for our plants in different geography.

Darlene, your growing methods for your needs are so dialed in and shows by all of your great successes. When and if you retire to Florida you may need to adjust your processes...

I love the idea of lava rock and even tried it. However I don't water enough and the climate/weather does not help except on those rainy days in summer. So I ended up with cattleya jerky...

Earlier last year I entertained a job offer in Florida. Although orchids did not play into my decision, I was in a bit of a state about evaluating my collection for suitability in Florida. Then realized i would need to adjust my growing process significantly for those I would take with me. Also I would experience quite a bit of loss as they adjust to their new home. Eek...

So much or what works is governed by environment (inside and outside) and the individual grower's habits..

From your orchids points of view I think they would vote in favor of Florida. It would be a lot of work relocating with orchids. But after the dust settled I think you would appreciate and prefer Florida. That is in terms of orchids...

Thanks all! I will hold way back on watering and repot in spring.

Regarding the keikis - should I mist the roots at all? I'm a little nervous letting it go super dry with those little roots in a low humidity environment...

I think that would be a good idea.

Circling back to this as I think it's time to repot. Both keikis now have eyes and are beginning to create new growths. There is also at least one new growth at the base. With that said, it has not bloomed for me yet so I'd like to repot and am considering a mix of coconut fiber and sphag. Wish me luck!

Sounds good!

Some keikis I leave and others come off. As Harvey said, take a piece of the cane from the mother plant.

I moved to South Florida almost 5 years ago. Brought some of my orchids from New York thinking they would be so happy here.

Most died very quickly. I only have two orchids left from New York, and I have had to scramble over and over to keep them alive. The heat, humidity is very difficult to learn.

I would not move to Florida thinking your orchids will be happy. You really need to learn a whole, new way of growing them. I'm still trying to figure it out.

Jane

I've traded several orchids with Darlene in Northern Ohio. They all are alive and thriving here in Florida...