Crown molding all the way around the room?

I'd put another row or two of your multicolor accent tiles up there.

Donna

Dang!

Can you just paint it the ceiling color and see if it doesn't just disappear to the eye. The only problem with that plan is your bullnose goes up to the ceiling. I wonder why he took that to the ceiling when the other didn't go?

I don't think i'd like the stripe of accent tile at the top. Your shower is beautiful. This might be a case where slivers of the field tile might work up there. I don't like the idea of crown molding. You could have him cut the slivers, tape them in, and see if it is too disturbing to you. It would have to be somewhat more harmonious than this, don't you think? But if it isn't, try the paint and see.

I'd remove top row of tiles and paint wall.

The one problem I see with removing the top row of tile, is that so many of todays rainheads are mounted at 7' and that would be at the top of the next to the top row. If I count your tiled wall correctly, you have an 8' ceiling.

Tile the ceiling?

Or a strip of the field tile. It looks like the gap is nice and uniform? If it is, it shouldn't be jarring.

Tile the ceiling. It eliminates any peeling paint potential, and solves your problem. Win-win

A pc of Corian or other solid surface material as a ceiling trim. That or tile the ceiling as others have suggested.

Connie:

How is your "floating" bench supported?

Thank you all! If you can't tell, I am sick over this!

msmeow, millworkman, nycbluedevil - I worry that a row of the multi-colored tile, crown molding or introducing an alternate material will draw the eye to the ceiling & emphasize a 'cover-up'.

cat_mom - We will tile ceiling if we have to, but I'm afraid the shower will feel closed in with the darkness of our tile.

enduring - To answer your question about the bull nose to the ceiling but not the rest of the tile... our design called for 3" each of the linear multi-colored accent tile. The contractor discovered he would run a few inches short, so rather than speaking with us so we could order another sheet of mosaic (two day delay), he made a judgement call to remove two rows and stretch the tile. He thought his mistake would blend-in once we painted the ceiling. --NOT

Fori - I think I'd like to try this first with zero grout line between the lower existing tile and the new tile & a uniform grout line between the new tile. Not sure if the tile can be cut so thin without damage.

Joseph Corlette - After searching online, I chose Centerline Bracket's Front Mounting Plus Bracket - Hidden. I couldn't be more pleased with the product or the customer service. The brackets are NOT stainless steel like other brackets that priced $400+/bracket from other companies. However, these brackets are powder coated with, I believe, 3 coats. And if Centerline is told they are to be used in a shower, they will add an additional clearcoat prior to shipping. The brackets are installed on notched studs and siliconed like crazy. They also suggest a bead of silicone on screws and any welds. The granite is secured with a bead of silicone. I placed my granite just a hair off the wall to allow water to drain.

Well I hope the tiler doesn't make that mistake again with a client. Thanks for the update. I bet with a nice blade and quality porcelain, you can get narrow cuts.

We ordered our tile through Avalon Flooring but had our contractor do the installation. I wish we used Avalon...they guarantee their work. We previously used Avalon for glass tile & installation for our kitchen backsplash and couldn't have been more pleased. When I brought a small concern to their attention they insisted on ripped out everything and making it right - at no additional expense to me. What more could you ask for?

I have to add, in good conscience, aside from this huge error in judgement, or contractor presented a very nice master bathroom / laundry room.

Have you considered having the contractor at his expense redo the work? If I paid a lot of money and had a clear understanding of what was supposed to be done and my contractor went another route without asking me, I would be furious. I can be picky but that ceiling is unacceptable.

Personally, I agree with hmorton. If you're uncomfortable with all the other solutions, it should be redone the way you contracted it to be done.

Also a question. It looks like there's no waterproofing up on that top part? Is there waterproofing in the rest of the shower?

What kind of tile is it? If he can't cut it thin enough to add a piece, is there any part of the accent tile that is a close enough match that you could just order more and have him pick out the matching pieces only to use? I can't tell, maybe it's glass accent tile? If so, then look for accent tile (shaped like your glass tile) that is a match for your larger tile and pull the right size pieces off the grid.

Or what about a matching edge/pencil tile (if they make one to match your tile)?

"We will tile ceiling if we have to, but I'm afraid the shower will feel closed in with the darkness of our tile."

I understand your concern, but your tile really isn't that dark. In addition, you have a can light in the shower ceiling, so darkness should not be an issue. I've tiled ceilings in dark charcoal tile with no "cave effect".

If there is no lighting in the shower than dark tile can have that effect. But with active lighting? And with light gray versus a dark tile?I don't see an issue, but you're there and I'm not.

Lesser alternatives that I don;t particularly care for, but I'll toss out just because we're throwing idea out there?

Frame the perimeter of your ceiling with a border made from your wall tile. The border tile will cover the wall/ceiling gap, leaving the main field of your ceiling painted white.

Tile the entire ceiling with a white/light tile to your liking.

I think there is a lot of overthinking in the solutions and a lot of unnecessary work being suggested. It's unfortunate that the tile guy messed up, but why not consider a fix that is simple and innocuous? If it were me, I'd get some wood quarter round molding that was just big enough to cover the problem, and paint it in semi-gloss. I'd cut it so that it overlapped onto the vertical border trim and stopped short about 1/4" from the point where the tile meets the wall. A finish carpenter can do a good job of rounding the end of the wood trim over so it doesn't look abrupt. It is an extra, little addition that shouldn't have been necessary, but it doesn't involve a bunch of contortions and rip-out, which might cause additional issues. And it doesn't attract the eye like some of the more complicated ideas here might.

After the first week, you will quit noticing it is even there.

hmorton and cpartist - My first urge is to have it ripped out & redone. I want it to be perfect. Unfortunately, and I'm embarrassed to admit this, my husband didn't think it was a big deal & paid the contractor in full before I returned from Florida. The contractor has agreed to 'fix' it - and get this - as long as we purchase additional tile.

kudzu9 - Smart way of looking at it... but, I'm a dweller. Cover-ups never blend into the background for me. Thank you though.

Take the top row of tile off the wall (I assume it's all full tiles).

Add a row of the square mosaic tile.

Finish it off with new big tiles, cut down slightly to fill up the whole wall to the ceiling.

The decorative row will look less like a mistake if it's in the middle of the wall instead of at the top.

UPDATE: Contractor guarantee satisfaction and did everything he could to fix problem in a timely manner. Sorry I threw him under the bus with my early frustrations. Top row of 12x24 tiles and rows of glass were replaced adding extra 5th row of glass tile to close gap at ceiling. Bathroom is gorgeous. Just waiting on new door fronts. Again, thank you for all your comments.

Great solution and it looks beautiful

Contractor guarantee satisfaction and did everything he could to fix
problem in a timely manner. Sorry I threw him under the bus with my
early frustrations.

thats 1 for the team