Nothing to worry about. It is just an old leaf, that has spent its time. A citrus leaf has a life span of 18 to 24 months, You can see the leaf of concern is the very bottom leaf on the tree, therefore is probably the tree's oldest leaf. When a citrus leaf can no longer pull its weight is is quickly discarded. As Dr. Manners is found of saying there is no wealfare program for citrus leaves.

Thanks, did not know that. Also do you know why this citrus is still not having any new growth yet? My other 2 citrus, satsuma mandarin and sudachi had new growth around February and March. But this Yuzu has nothing yet. The other 2 citrus both grew when it was still indoors Btw. And Ive had them outdoors for about a month now and my Yuzu is placed in full sun.

Your Yuzu should begin to flush new growth as the summer heats up. Yuzu is a cold hardy cultivar, hardy down to a aproximately 15-F (9.4-C). All cold hardy citrus varietiess are slower to begin new growth than non cold hardy varieties. . The more cold hardy the variety, the later is the first flush of the season. Normally Yuzu flushes new growth about the same time as does the kumquat, around the middle of June. Continue to give your Yuzu sunlight and nurtition and all should be fine..

Ok I will start fertilizing starting from this weekend. But satsuma mandarins and sudachi are also one of the hardiest citrus and equally hardy as yuzu as 15 degrees. And they both grew but not the yuzu. Why did my satsuma mandarins and sudachi start growing so early then? They were not fertilized nor were they outdoors at the time they started growing.

My yuzu has not started growing yet this season so do not despair! All my other trees are growing except the yuzu!

Thanks that made me feel better! But man I did not know that a yuzu is that stubborn....

Ya, the Yuzu and Kinkan are tough, and part of what makes them tough is they don't put out new growth until its safe. Yes, my Satsuma, sudachi, as well as all the other citrus are pushing new growth, with the exception of Yuzu and Kinkan.

Just remember the poem: "Yuzus bloom in June"

It obviously needs fertilizer.

Resume fertilizing 2 weeks after a re-potting.

Josh

So I guess the yuzu is just a naturally late grower huh. But kinkan isn't nearly as hardy yuzu or satsuma I believe. Ok then I will fertilize tomorrow actually. Thought recently potted citrus shouldn't get fertilized until after a month or so but I can't wait anymore!

Whats this about not fertilizing for a month after re-potting a citrus tree. After up potting a tree I have always put the tree right back on the scheduled fertilizer schedule. I've done so for over 20 years with no difficulty what so ever. If you want a tree to prosper and grow it has to be fed.

Someone told me that fertilizing right after potting will cause burn on the roots because they haven't established in the soil yet. Btw about fertilizing with foliage pro.. I fertilized this morning with one teaspoon per gallon of water but with the 5-1-1 mix, the water just comes right out the bottom in less than 10 seconds. Will the fertilizer stay on to the soil or does it just get flushed out with the water? People in this forum tell me it should be fine but I am having a hard time convincing myself that after seeing the water just flush out the bottom in no time. Could someone tell me their experiences with 5-1-1 mix and foliage proing

I always fertilise right after re-potting, albeit at a much reduced rate. I normally use 1-2 tsp of Jack's Citrus Tone per gallon of water. When watering a newly re-potted plant, I will reduce it to 0.25 tsp per gallon. The plants do need food after all, if you expect them to grow new roots!

5-1-1 should allow water to drain well and absorb a significant amount of fertiliser. If the water comes out coloured (like the fertiliser when mixed with water initially), then yes too much is running off. In that case I would suggest making your soil more water retentive.

Or along with what Stefan said, water your plant first, then use fertilizer water so that it just starts to leak out and stop...That's what I do...And fertilizer with Foliage Pro will NOT burn your roots in the 5.1.1 mix and that't one of the reasons why we use the 5.1.1. No one know for sure whether your tree will absorb the fertilizer right away like it does water depending on whether or not you shocked the roots..At the appropiate time of the year, the roots should establish right away and function as they always did if they are healthy...

Wether you use FP or Jacks, they are water soluble. In other words they disolve in the water, and where ever the water goes so goes the fertilizer. In a mix as rapid draining as the 5-1-1 where the water runs straight through the mix and quickly out the bottom, so does most the fertilizer. The only water and fertilizer that remains in the mix is just the thin film that attaches the mix, the rest is wasted, unless it is somehow caught in a basin of some kind. I used to use a 5-1-1 mix when I first started growing citrus, but I moved on away from it years ago.

I will try the method of watering with plain watering first and then water with fertilized mix but now I'm leaning more towards using a more water retentive mix.. I knew that the 5-1-1 was way fast draining! No way a plant can get enough water with that kind of rocket fast water drainage. Maybe more like 5-2-1 would work. Before I got into citrus gardening, we had the sudachi that my dad bought years ago and it has been in a regular store bought bagged potting soil for all those years and had no problem. Another example-my ex-workplace has a bunch of citrus in barkless mixes(I think compost, perlite, coir) and they all have been doing fine for all the years they've been like that. I think people are a bit too over worried about root rot.. I mean cmon its not a cactus or anything

Or maybe it has to do with me using fir bark(reptibark) instead of pine bark. Maybe the pine bark is more moisture retentive and won't allow the water to drain that fast?

When I water my trees, I do have a container under the pot to collect the draining water. Then I water once or twice again with the same water. That's how I make sure every bit of the 'sort-of 5-1-1' gets soaked. Its just plain pine-bark with perlite. I aim to keep the containers the same size as the canopy of the tree, and therefore I need to water about once a week. Indoor plants, normal room temperature and artificial lighting.

Just remember, if you decide to make your mix more water retentive, you risk the chance or root rot, salt damage, and poorly oxygenated roots zone...The more porous your mix is, the healthier the roots are. That is why I stick with porous mixes such as the 5.1.1 and add a slow release too such as Dynamite or Osmocote and fertilizer weakly weekly or at every watering...I have no clue where anyone gets the ides that the 5.1.1 does not hold fertilizer as it should, but it holds much more than one might think, especially so if your mix is any part of peat in it....I have never seen anyone here with less than ideal trees unless they just did not use enough fertilizer or the right one.

Mike, all those chanches listed above are quite a stretch, I would say.

If you water a tree in 5-1-1 mix versus many other soil-mixes, the amount of fertilizer in the soil is less what comes to weight, milligrams, macrograms and so on.

But, the percentual amount of fertilizer retained should still be still the same? Less water(good drainage) - less fertilizer by WEIGHT.

This counts to water soluble fertilizers.

You got me or did I mess it up? :)