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brenda_reyes6659949

Baseboard is wider than door casing

9 years ago
I need help deciding what to do with baseboard that is wider than my door casings. I am painting everything white and my contractor suggested these returns on all door casings. I think I like this idea, but does it look like we're trying too hard? Should I stress over this or just leave it. Please help! I won't be using a shoe..

Comments (28)

  • 9 years ago

    I'm not clear what you're asking about -- the relative widths? the colors? the turn in the shape of the baseboard moulding? other??

  • 9 years ago
    Sorry, I guess my pic didn't upload first time. Does this baseboard return look ok next to my casing?
  • 9 years ago
    And yes, I'm referring to the turn in the baseboard..
  • 9 years ago
    I like it. It doesn't look over-done, and it doesn't look like an afterthought. If the cut is sanded, and everything painted one colour, it'll be grand :)
  • 9 years ago
    *she's talking about the Width of the baseboard (not the height) being too wide, so if it is against the door casing, it'll poke out. Other then changing the door casings, or adding plinth blocks.... I think the solution is pretty great!
  • 9 years ago

    Once painted it will look just fine.:) Very nice baseboard !

  • 9 years ago

    Not baseboard return vote here. Looks odd to me.


    Here are the tall baseboard to door casing on my 1850 house:

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    It doesn't look good. The baseboard is way to heavy for the casing!

  • 9 years ago

    Oh wait, she is talking about the depth of the baseboard? Not the width? That it is sticking out beyond the door casing?


  • 9 years ago

    i think the return is funky and draws attention to it (plus more $). yes, in an ideal world, you would have picked narrower base, or had different door trim, but to answer your question, I think you just let it die into the trim, and stick out a little. Especially since painting the same color. You can try to cut the base at a 45 angle, like .5 inch right where it connects, to soften the transition.

  • 9 years ago

    I agree that ideally you'd find a better way to make them match. But among ways to Make This Work (without all new door casings, e.g.), this is sort of inspired. I think it will disappear once it's painted, and I can guarantee that nobody will ever think to look in that spot again. :)

  • 9 years ago

    maybe angle the wood in at the edge so it doesn't stick out? a slight chamfered edge?

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    With todays cheap offshore made and box store sold products this is what happens. Products are being produced with zero thought or knowledge on how they work together. It is common today to see door casings that are approx 1/16-1/8 thinner at their widest point then the baseboard adjoining them. Traditionally the door casing was thicker allowing the base to terminate into it.

    Do not draw more attention to it. If it drives you nuts have your carpenter add a 3/4 x3/4 block all around the casing. Another quick and a lot cheaper fix is to simply chamfer the edge of the baseboard where it terminates into the casing with a plane. Knocking off the edge removes the visual of it protruding further then the casing.

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    I agree with others the casing should be deeper. However if replacing or adding to the casing is out of the budget the installer should return base


    on its self the 3/4" depth side keeping the profile only on the top edge- not bring the profile down to floor.

  • 9 years ago
    It does look like trying too hard. My vote is for a mitred return.
  • 9 years ago

    The base should dive into the door trim, I am not crazy about any of the solutions, but if the trim is painted out white it will hardly be noticeable. The solution would be to replace the door trim with something thicker.

  • 7 years ago

    We have the same issue in our large foyer. A block around is a good idea, but they the door casings in our foyer wont match the rest of the house? What about a plinth block on the casing?

  • 6 years ago

    Two simple solutions as baseboard should end into door casing trim NOT be wider.

    1. Replace door casing with thicker option.

    2.Remove door casting and cut a piece of plane wood the width of casing you removed and attach around door ,then replace original casing over trim piece which should give you suffice t thickness for baseboard to dead end into evenly or with slight recess, will look professional ,a little more time very little money.

  • 5 years ago

    Add a piece at the bottom that is thicker like this and paint all white:




  • PRO
    5 years ago

    you all realize that this discussion is 3 years old, right?

  • 5 years ago

    @J D Can you tell me what you found that casing style?

  • 5 years ago

    Paint the door trim white. White makes everything appear bigger in a sense. Every home i go into, like older homes has this issue of small door trim and larger baseboards. And honestly I wouldn't have noticed until I started reading and learning more about home improvement. I only saw Beauty. The contractor clearly doesn't have a good design eye if you are paying for perfection.

  • 5 years ago

    Teresa, the type of trim is called a "plinth block"

  • 5 years ago

    JD, where did you get the baseboard from? I’m in Toronto and am having trouble finding baseboards that have a simple “top” like the one you used…. Hoping to google a brand name or model name. Thanks!

  • 5 years ago

    Fwiw, even the simple casing style is hard to find. I’ve made peace with a traditional “colonial” casing…. Hoping to find a “simple” baseboard.

  • 5 years ago

    I prefer my baseboards and all other wood trim to be the same color.

  • 5 years ago

    Teresa Ohhh that pic is from the internet sorry. It’s not in my house

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