monitor for the hatch. The youngster stage are black and hang out together on the underside of the leaf.

Once you see the nymphs (youngsters), a harsh water spray to the undersides of the leaves is effective. The more thorough you are, the better.

One step up in firepower, but still safe for you & the bees, is to spray insecticidal soap to the undersides of the leaves.

Or ignore the entire thing. The azalea will bloom, look ratty through the summer, and will survive to bloom again.

A second generation may hatch late summer. Repeat above.

Timing is critical in dealing with lace bugs. Your extension service can recommend the date for first spraying of insecticidal soap or neem oil for your particular area. If you can make a dent in the first lace bug generation, it will greatly reduce subsequent generations. There are spray wands designed to cover leaf undersides which make things somewhat easier.

The truth, however, is that good control of lace bugs is very difficult without using something with systemic action. It is also true that heavy lace bug infestation year after year can weaken plants enough to kill them. Systemic soil drenches are environmentally safer than sprays because you avoid any possibility of drift. Consumer products containing 1.47% imidacloprid applied after bloom pose very little danger to bees. I know of no studiesshowing this insecticide's presence in the following year's flowers. Check with your extension service or state agriculture department for their recommendations. Achieving good control one year, raking up and disposing of fallen leaves, will significantly reduce the problem in future years.