Let it alone. But I do wonder if you are feeding it with a fertilizer that has a high nitrogen content? For what it is worth I grow most of my peonies in shade from dappled to only reflected sun and most bloom. You can start watching for bloom buds to develop in the axels starting late June to perhaps late July in your area. I also wonder if you have pruned the plant.

I have not pruned it very much. I use compost and 20-20-20 fertilizer a couple times a year.

I have a "regular" peony in another part of the garden and it does well.

Find one without a high first number as the first number builds leaves. Depending on your tree peony they develop flower buds near the tips of last years growth. Probably you have been pruning away your flowers. A few, very few, develop the buds on new stems that arise from axels further down on your plant stems.

My wife would kind of like me to move it as she wants to put vegetables in that area. Is it risky to move?

Depending on what she wants to put there some of them could be planted now in the surrounding area. Better to wait until it goes dormant to move. However there may be a problem with reflected heat on veggies once the peony is removed.

Do your tree peony’s woody stems die back significantly every winter? If so, it might be the cold that killed your flower buds, since they are formed on the woody stems grown in previous years. In this case, some winter protections might be necessary to make sure flower buds will survive until spring.

Yes, they do seem to die significantly. How big should this plant be after 6 years in ideal conditions?

You would have to tell what plant it is. Some like Alice Harding only grow to about 24 inches after about ten years. Others like Hephestos I have seen over 8 feet tall.

What is the least/most cold tolerant family of tree peonies, maifleur? Most say they're good down to zone 4 at least but for the colder zones should we be looking for rockii in the parentage, for example? I've really just started seriously collecting tree peonies in the last couple of years from the big growers, don't want to buy an expensive tree that will die over the first winter because it's less tolerant of our climate.

You would have to tell what plant it is. Some like Alice Harding only grow to about 24 inches after about ten years. Others like Hephestos I have seen over 8 feet tall.

All the tag said was Japanese tree peony Koukamon Paeonia suffruticosa. Height 4-6 feet.

Punman sorry I had a brain fart. You did state what it was. Other places state medium size which in most areas is 3-to 5 feet. 6 feet would be probably in 15-20 years.

Lizbest We do not get the tender almost subtropical tree peonies in this country. I think Jim or someone called them Central Plains cultivars. When I first started planting them in listening I knew that the main danger was the stem cells bursting when the sun would hit part of the plant in the afternoon or morning. As the sun dropped the heated stems did not have time to cool gradually. The moisture in the stems could be forced out of the stems as ice breaking then stem wall. In young plants even in the mornings this can happen given the uneven temperatures around the stems. Think sitting in front of a fireplace on a cold day. The front, sun side, is hot, your sides may be ok but your back may be freezing. Same thing happens in plants with the sun taking the place of the fireplace. If until the plant has established thicker woody bark I would suggest placing a barrier of some type around the plant to prevent the sun from hitting it directly until conditions warm. I used to use that hexagonal farm wire that comes in rolls placed round the plants. I then filled the space with whole leaves. The air spaces act as insulation. I did not worry about anything covering the top. Once I did have to add additional leaves but the worry is keeping the lower branches from the freeze thaw splitting. If you have a heavy vole population you may have problems with them chewing on the stem. Which is another reason to plant extra deep. They and mice are more likely to do damage to the plant above the surface. After a couple of years the plant will build up a bark structure which helps prevent the splitting of the stems because of sun hitting the stems. I tend to plant where there are natural barriers to the sun. Large trees or bushes shading the area. People state to plant in full sun however as long as you can look straight up and see the sky only a part of the yellow spectrum is not hitting the plant directly. Artists have always considered light from the north as the purest light.

Here I am approaching fall where I live and I am posting a picture showing the bottom of the plant. Do you think it was planted at the wrong depth? It did not bloom this year. This would be the time for me to move or replant it I would think.