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Schefflera withering/blackening, leaf fall

9 years ago

Hi, looking for some advice about what I'm doing wrong with my Schefflera. I bought just about 6 weeks ago. It was originally braided, and I unbraided and repotted it after about a 3 weeks. I used a pot that was slightly larger but not significantly larger. I also gave it all new potting soil, MG, and a good watering during the unbraiding/repot.
It gets filtered daylight each day, thrice-weekly mistings. I've been watering it with maybe 2/3 of a pint every 4-5 days. (Perhaps I've overwatered)
Here the last few weeks it's been dropping leaves and stems like crazy. Also, two stalks have blackened and withered. I have combed the plant for signs of pests and/or fungus, and can find nothing of any real consequence. I thought perhaps spider mites, because when I shake the leaves over white paper, I do see some pepper looking specks. But no webbing, no strange moisture or spittle, no no real damage to the leaves themselves, topside or underside. The leaves and entire umbrellas that fall are both healthy green all the way, and/or with stems that have browned. I'd love any and all tips, thanks much!


Comments (12)

  • 9 years ago

    Thanks for your reply. The pot does have a drain hole, there is never moisturize in the tray.

    I will move it closer to the sun. I was worried about it burning in direct sunlight?

    I live in the middle of nowhere, so I don't have a lot of options for plants. The only type they carried at B&Q were these braided versions. I thought Scheffleras were pretty hardy, and I wanted one, so I took the braided version.


    I used a 20X loupe on the black specks and they are indeed not bugs. Looks like dirt to me.

    Live been watering it less since last week. I will continue to do so, thank you. Do you think overwatering would cause the blackening and withering of the stalks?

    thanks-

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I should add that live in England currently, and sunlight isn't always happening:(

    Also, I just stick my finger in about 2 inches and then water if the soil is dry.

  • 9 years ago

    They grow in the ground here in Florida. They are in full sun. I would gradually move your plant to your sunniest spot and maybe put it outside in summer.

    Jane

    Alysan Ledbetter thanked jane__ny
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Indeed Jane.

    I took these cuttings from one in Florida and started them early last fall.

    I see these as hedges all over south Florida.

    Alysan Ledbetter thanked Dave
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    In habitat these are often found growing as epiphytes (or lithophytes - on rocks). I've even seen them growing on trees in swamps, but never in a swamp itself. Definitely prefer it moist but not wet, especially in cooler temperatures. They'd be happy in a potting mix similar to that for epiphytic orchids, something that's fast draining and aerated.

    Growing in poor light they will lose leaves and do tend to become etoliated, or long and lanky. But they are easy to grow from cuttings if you ever want to trim some pieces off.

    Alysan Ledbetter thanked tropicbreezent
  • 9 years ago

    It's important to know when the plant needs water and when watering will harm the root system. The easy way to check is to push a sharpened dowel all the way through the soil to the bottom of the pot, and only water when it comes out dry. Of course, this only works if you water thoroughly until 10-15% of the pot's volume drains from the pot when you do water.


    Please know that I don't mean to be critical, but if that pot is as big as it looks, there's no way a cup and a half of water moistens more than a small portion of the soil, which would mean that part of the soil is likely too wet and roots are drowning or dead because of the highly water retentive MG soil, while other parts are bone dry, which also kills the fine roots that keep the plant alive.


    Here's how I water the plants that are still in MG soil. They still take a long time to dry, but the plants are doing much, much better since I started draining them properly.


    Watering: First, I begin watering by slowly moistening the entire surface of the soil, then I leave it for a few minutes. Second, I slowly water the entire surface until water begins to drain from the bottom of the pot, then leave it alone for about 20 minutes. Third, I repeat the second step. At this point it usually takes more water before I see any drainage.


    Draining: I use blocks of wood to prop the pot up to about 45 degrees from vertical for about 10 minutes, then set it upright. I mostly use plastic pots with holes around the edges of the bottom, so excess water starts to drain from them while their propped up. I've found that the large pot that has a hole in the middle drains it's excess water when it's set upright again.


    I hope that helps!


    Alysan Ledbetter thanked litterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Litterbuggy- Thank you, yes it does. I've never had houseplants before, although I grew banana trees when I lived in FL. So yes, it's a learning curve. I've moved the Schefflera directly to the window for day time. I will try your watering technique as well. Do you think it is too late for this plant, root wise?

    Everyone else, thank you as well. I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I will look for some aerated medium to re pot with. I will probably give it a little while before I re pot, I want to give the plant time to recover.

  • 9 years ago

    It's not too late at all! Scheffleras are tough. You've still got a lot of leaves, which means there are still some healthy roots, so things should improve as you learn how to care for it.

    My big schefflera's leaves were dropping if I so much as touched them and the top of each stem had just a little cluster of leaves at it's tip when I found this forum, and now it's growing well enough to do a full repot (root trim and complete soil replacement with the new mix) next month. I almost gave up because it didn't show any improvement for months, but that was because it had to grow new roots and build up energy reserves before growing any more greenery.

    You've caught this a lot sooner than I did, though, so I don't think you'll have to wait to see new growth. I'd also consider repotting it in a better soil, something that drains really well and makes lots of air available to the roots; that's what I did with the big schefflera because it was in such terrible shape, and its response to better care is much stronger than the small schefflera, which is still in MG.

  • 9 years ago

    BTW, the big scheff stopped dropping leaves within a few days of getting the watering straight and putting it in front of the window.

  • 9 years ago

    Thanks everyone for you answers. I moved it to the window, removed it from the horrible pot it was in, potted back down to the terra-cotta it came in, and then gave it to friend who is pretty keen with houseplants. We are leaving on a long trip aroun Europe and I didn't want a sickly plant left negelected.

    I appreciate everyone taking the time to answer my questions. I've learned a good bit.

  • 9 years ago

    Have a great trip!!!