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BlueStar range burner lighting issues

9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago

We have a 36" 6 burner RCS that my kitchen installer hooked up last week. It's propane and was tagged and labeled for propane. We checked for leaks and good to go there. At first light, 3 of 6 burners would click and you would see a noticeable spark, but they would not light. These would, however, light quickly using a clickable butane lighter. As far as location on the range, it's the bottom right, the rear middle and the rear left (simmer).

What we have done- we adjusted the shutters on these 3 burners and that seems to have helped two of them light better. They still take longer than the rest. The igniter is centered nicely over the holes and a spark is seen. The venturi tube is aligned with the gas orifice and we even took a pin to the holes in the burner, although it's brand new and never been cooked on. The wires are all connected and we kept the zip tie around the wires underneath as directed in the manual.

The most troublesome is the simmer burner. It hasn't lit on it's own despite all of the above. When we light it with the butane lighter it works fine but when we turn it off it goes out and then lights up again for a second and extinguishes with a poof/pop sound.

The flames are blue with occasional orange (minimal) and cone shaped. We adjusted the flame heights using the screw behind the knobs.

Any ideas what is going on here? I get that these can need tweaking from time to time and they look simple as heck, but it's brand new from the factory and 50% of it doesn't work- that just doesn't seem right to me.

Comments (7)

  • 9 years ago

    John, thank you for the advice and excellent detail. I'll take a look at adjusting the igniters. I did feel the tips and they were quite strong feeling and I hesitated to try to bend them as I felt like I would break something. I can't check the range now as they are working in our kitchen, but I felt like they were aimed OK, not too high. I do have a photo of one on my phone that looks OK, but perhaps the angle of my photo makes it appear that way. I'll take a closer look when I can get access. Thank you again.

  • 9 years ago

    Happy to help.

    Here is a photo of one of my burners after the modification. The electrode tip is centered in the bottom most hole.

  • 9 years ago

    Make sure you use stainless steel screws AND spacers, especially with propane. I have an 11 year old BS range top when they had not yet realized the folly of using galvanized screws for the igniters. The steel screws, especially with the propane, rusted, fused really, in place pretty quickly. I've had to chisel, drill and tap some of the screws to replace the igniters. Half my igniters don't light at this point but after reading @John's explanation I might try to readjust - they are all out of alignment from careless cleaning (not me) .

  • 9 years ago

    Update- Our igniters do seem to have a longer tip. We managed to get them all to light by bending the tip down toward the lower holes and also making sure there was enough distance between the tip and the burner holes to create a big enough spark. All of them are lighting within a few clicks now with the exception of the simmer burner which takes a little longer. However, when we place a pot on the simmer burner and then light, it happens faster, so I'll probably just plan to do that. Thank you, John, for the advice!


    We did the oven burn off last night and wow, the oven exterior gets hot. I had read this in the past but felt it was from previous models where there were oven door issues and that this was resolved. The two center knobs to control the two center burners were so hot that you would need an oven mitt to use them while the oven was on at this temp. The drip tray could not be touched without an oven mitt either. I am also concerned with the sides of the range which were very hot and transferring heat to the adjacent cabinets. I am thinking over time this could cause our paint issues. This was while running the oven at 450 for 1 hour- but still, I'm not really happy about it.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Great to hear that you got your igniters working!

    The simmer burner will take longer because it has the lowest gas flow (simmer => smallest gas orifice) combined with the larger venturi tube volume (burner in back, farthest from the control valve). I just tried mine from a cold start (no gas in tube) and it took nine sparks to light. Turning it off and then on again, it lit on the first spark.

    I recall that when I did my initial oven burn-in that the top of the door, drip pan, and kick panel were surprisingly hot. Since then, not a problem at all. Don't know if it is just me changing my perception of it or if the initial burn-in is different than in normal use (maybe high temperature fumes being burned off?).

  • 9 years ago

    Hoping that's the case John. I haven't used the oven since the burn off. I became attached to the Breville toaster oven I bought during our kitchen reno! I use it every day and don't know how I ever lived without.

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