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mike_larkin

Soil has too much calcium and magnesuium

9 years ago

Recently did a soil test through Penn State for a client and the test came back with over the limit Calcium and Magnesium levels. The pH was 6.5 In this community there is lots of limestone rock in the area.

The homeowner was applying annually aluminum sulfate to correct what he felt was a soil pH problem ( too alkaline) and had recently applied the aluminum sulfate this spring.

Has anyone had a problem with high levels of calcium? Does this impact plant growth of certain shrubs?

am also concerned with the homeowners annual use of aluminum sulfate. Any thoughts on possible toxicity from too much aluminum sulfate

In his landscape the following shrubs that have done well - weigelia, , boxwood, japanese maples , daylilies , what has not azalea, Japanese holly .

Mike

Comments (9)

  • 9 years ago

    I am assuming this is eastern PA? It doesn't sound that unusual for the rest of the state. It is quite high for the east, and likely to raise a few eyebrows among those who haven't hit it before. My native pH is 7.2, and I have been accused multiple times of sleep-liming.

    It isn't a concern *unless* you are trying to grow plants that are sensitive to higher pH like azaleas. Somewhere, which I wish I could remember where, I read that the real problem these plants have is that they have become extremely efficient at pulling minerals out of acidic soils where they are largely tied up. So when they are planted in higher pH soils they pull out too much mineral, and suffer from a plant form of arteriosclerosis

    Apparently aluminum toxicity is only a problem at low pH. The aluminum reacts to become a toxic form.

  • 9 years ago

    Yes it is eastern PA.

    After talking to the PA extension agent , this area is common for high calcium levels and many soil reports come back the same. I am ok with the 6.6 pH. In the future if the homeowner want to lowers the pH, I think that iron sulfate or garden sulfur would be a good choice, rather than the aluminum sulfate. I could not find a test at PS for aluminum sulfate, so I am thinking about recommending that they wait till fall to plant, and that adding compost to the soil may not be a bad idea. Thanks for your help - mad g.

    pH chart

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Forget about altering the soil, instead plant species adapted to calcareous soils ie:

    eastern red cedar or selections thereof

    many oaks including dwarf chinquapin oak (shrub)

    sumacs & smoketrees

    hop hornbeam

    NJ tea - must be sunny and well-drained

    sassafras

    spicebush

    many viburnums

    most legumes including redbud

    meadow-sweet Spiraea latifolia (best in wet areas)

  • 9 years ago

    I don't think that adding compost is EVER a bad idea.

    And I have to agree with Ken here- fighting mother nature is a full time job and the moment this homeowner relaxes the soil will bounce right back to it's natural state. She always wins over the long term.

    If I was this homeowner I'd spend my time researching plants that will do well in these conditions rather than trying to find methods to fight it.

  • 9 years ago

    calcareous soils - thanks I was looking for that term. Are you aware of any plants that do not tolerate high calcium levels. I believe that there may be many plants that not be bothered by this high level --- Driving around the same neighborhood I see lots of thriving plants. However I will certainly look for the list of plants that do well in calcareous soils ( it is an important list to have! for this job)

    This is a front yard in a residential neighborhood. I need lower plants that work in a front bed.

    This is the first time the homeowner did a PSU soil test. Each time they did a store bought self test which only told them pH. I typically suggest this test because I do not want to select plants for the design that will not do well.

    Altering the soil - IMHO when large old shrubs are removed from a bed it is a good idea to try to amend the depleted soil. My other concern was if there is any level of aluminum sulfate that the composted soil may help. It cant hurt, and it can be easily add to the bed which has no shrubs now.

    Thanks for all the good advise.

  • 9 years ago

    In my part of the world there are abundant calcareous soils. After ploughing many field are essentially white. But is excellent farmland and we can grow a wide variety of plants. Beech woods for example are at home here.

    Azaleas, rhododendrons, blueberries and most heathers are not suited to these soils. Camellias and some magnolias struggle. Mountain Laurel is impossible.


    Here's a link, but it is for the UK so some suggestions might not suit your climate.

  • 9 years ago

    Previous comments about working with the soil you have rather than trying to amend to alter pH make excellent sense!! You can make some small adjustments but attempting a larger change will be just an exercise in frustration. Most soils have a buffering capacity that resists any permanent significant pH change.

    And you want to avoid using aluminum sulfate to acidify soils if you are growing any ericaceous plants. They are especially sensitive to aluminum toxicity, which will be a real concern with multiple applications of this product.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    floral - the client said they could not grow Azaleas, rhododendrons! Thanks for the excellent list. I have seen some of this plants growing on this property. gardengal, - thanks for the ericaceous recommendation --- I will avoid.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't think that adding compost is EVER a bad idea

    As long as it is clean (not contaminated with herbicides for instance) and put on top of the ground, as mulch, when being used for long term plants like shrubs. Digging it in is appropriate only for subjects like annual vegetables and flowering annuals, that have small root systems and are planted in beds that are re-worked frequently.