Spastba – First of all let me say I live in a temperate region of Australia and any comments I make are based on my experience from growing bromeliads under my conditions and may have to be adjusted to suit conditions in other countries.

You are quite right, your plant has already bloomed. Looking at your picture I would say your plant is either what was previously known as the species Vriesea splendens or more likely Vriesea ‘Splenreit’ which is a cultivar bred from Vriesea splendens and which is commercially produced in large numbers to be sold in nurseries and department stores all over the country.

Recently however, there have been a number of name changes and this particular plant is now known as a "Lutheria" and is no longer a "Vriesea". So your plant is now either Lutheria splendens or Lutheria ‘Splenreit’.

The coloured spear shaped spike you show in your picture (in total) is called the “inflorescence”; the red coloured portions are the “bracts” (Often mistakenly called the flowers); and at the top of the inflorescence in the first picture is the cream/grey coloured dead “flower” (These are usually yellow before they die).

The flowers don’t last very long, perhaps just a day or so and they open progressively up the inflorescence starting at the bottom, so the flowers on your plant are all finished. The reddish bracts however will stay in colour much longer and given the right conditions last sometimes for several months.

This is my Lutheria ‘Splenreit’ still showing colour after seven months

As for the spike removal, there are two lines of thought on this; there is what Raxidor says, “But I wouldn't cut the inflorescence before it gets completely dry, because the plant will absorb back some nutrients from it”; or the other theory, that while ever the old spike remains attached, it is drawing vigour from the Mother plant. I don’t know which theory is correct but what I do, (and it works for me) is to cut the inflorescence off as soon as the red colour starts to fade and change to green.

This will conserve the remaining vigour of the Mother plant which can then be better utilised in the production of pups. Because this inflorescence has been drawing nourishment from the Mother plant for the whole of its life the Mother plant will now benefit from a good fertilising to help build it up again thereby restoring its vigour so that it is more likely to produce pups.

I would also like to add to what Lars says about the growing conditions, and that is that I’ve
found these plants to be very cold sensitive so they definitely benefit when give protection from the elements during winter otherwise they end up with badly marked leaves from "cold burn".

Regarding your space problem, I would be inclined to try some miniature Neoregelias; these can be just as colourful as the standard size Neoregelias but they are much smaller (4”-6” diameter), grow quicker and many of them produce new pups on stolons several inches from the main plant so they quickly cover a larger area than plants without stolons.

Another advantage is that they cost less to purchase than the larger Neoregelias and because they are so small, postage costs less also when buying by mail order.

Below are some examples of the colours and forms available in miniatures; some with stolons and some without.

Neoregelia 'Turmoil' which just has short stolons

Neoregelia 'Strawberries and Cream' (unreg.) which has no obvious stolons

Neoregelia 'Whim' with three to four inch stolons.

Neoregelia 'Zoe' - A quickly spreading plant with even longer stolons

This is the species Neoregelia punctatissima showing brilliant colour

Neoregelia 'Fireball' showing the spreading effect achieved by the stolons

This is another Neoregelia 'Fireball' with shorter stolons and a more compact habit.

Neoregelia 'Tiger Cub' showing what can be achieved in a few years growth

If spots are more your thing, what better than the nice little Neoregelia 'Domino'

All the best, Nev.