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Need help with a scheduled plan

9 years ago
I'm looking for some help coming up with an annual organic lawn schedule / dummy-guide for myself. We live in the wetlands of NJ, zone 7a.
My current draft looks like this:
Spring: Milky spore, pH test/lime?, Wow! Supreme/corn gluten (weed & feed), SumaGreen turf
Summer: Nematodes/milky spore (for grubs), pH test/lime?
Early Fall: Milky spore, corn gluten
Late fall: thatch, core aerate & overseed, topsoil. Water for 2 weeks until germination.

I've spot-removed dandelions when needed. We have a mixture of weeds throughout, and a fair amount of grub and dog urine damage.
I'm trying to sort all of this out, and learn about cues for when to do what - regarding temperatures, watering and cutting needs, etc.
I'm new to lawn care though we have a lot of organic edibles, and some chickens, dogs and kids that eat the grass.

Any help or guidance is appreciated.

Comments (7)

  • 9 years ago

    Spring is really the wrong time of year for a soil pH test and spreading lime. That should be done in the fall.

    Spring is also not a good time to spread Milky Spore disease since it only affects the grubs while they are young. Spread Milky Spore disease in late July to early August when the grubs hatch and start feeding.

    What are you using the corn gluten meal for? Fertilizer or unwanted plant (weed)control? For unwanted plant control the optimal time of application of corn gluten meal is about 6 weeks before those plant seeds will germinate, ie. early spring.

    Is thatching really necessary? About 1/2 inch of thatch is very beneficial, acting as a mulch of sorts.

    Is aerating really necessary? A soil with adequate amounts of organic matter will not need to be aerated, so that is where you should be aiming.

    What kind of soil do you have? Clay? Sand?, Loam?

    What is the soil pH?

    How much organic matter is in that soil?

    Perhaps these simple soil tests, along with a good soil test from Rutgers, may be of some help.

    1) Soil test for organic
    material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
    a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
    replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
    hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
    For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
    bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
    that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

    2) Drainage. Dig a hole
    1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
    away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
    away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
    more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
    soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

    3) Tilth. Take a handful
    of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
    released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
    finger that clump should fall apart.

    4) Smell. What does your
    soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
    odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
    will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
    can be bad as well.

    5) Life. How many
    earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
    according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
    is not healthy.

    User thanked kimmq
  • 9 years ago

    Thank you so much for taking the time to respond, it was very informative! I want to digest all of that and respond on a computer instead of my phone (which i want to bury with the grubs) asap...

  • 9 years ago

    Isn't late fall too late for overseeding? I thought that should be done in September to give the seeds time to germinate and take hold. Will look forward to more information in this thread..

  • 9 years ago

    When to seed in the fall depends on where in the world you are. Zone 5 and north seeding should be done by mid September, while in zone 6 seeding can go until early October, and in zone 7 later. Germination time is key because most, even cool weather grass seeds, need somewhat warm soil, not air, temperatures to germinate, but will grow quite well in fairly cool weather.

    User thanked kimmq
  • 9 years ago

    Is there a downside to overseeding too early?


  • 9 years ago

    And is there an upside to waiting as long as possible?

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