No response here, so I went ahead and ordered a Rosa-sinensis 'Cooperi.' Received it today. So cute. 18" high. I love the variegation. Here's a pic. The aluminum is just to keep it out of direct sun for a few days to a week.

you may have had a tri color hau leaves that were either green, white or red?

They were all three colors--green, white and red.

Hibi cooperi 'Snowflake' is very splotchy white-green, but if it doesn't get enough light, then its lighter-green with darker green. so often on the plant you see both, as some leaves get more light and others less.

but actually there are 3 colors present: white, light green and dark-green.

this is what they look like

This is mine. Grow from cuttings I got when I visited Florida last year. I think it is snow queen, what do you think? Thanks.

yep! i have that one too :). from FL - rooted the cuttings too:).

the lower leaves have more white - that's prolly when it got more sun. as you see your new growth is much more green - you should try to give it more sun!

Ha, it is pretty common in FL but very rare in northeast. May I ask how do you overwinter it? This is the first real winter for it. I got the cutting last August , and rooted it in a make shift green house - made by two Rubbermaid boxes. And it stayed in there the whole winter till it is warm enough to move outside this spring. And I put it outside in shade - afraid its leaves get burned. Thanks for any tips

yah, it's everywhere in south fl, but a lot of hedges are not pruned often enough and it's gets sparse and leggy - not very pretty!

i grow mine on water-wick so it never fully dries up (unless it runs out of water in the reservoir, of course - which does happen and then it promtly drops the leaves), but the top of the soil does dry up somewhat , so i mulch it a bit with coir-chips. It stays on the west window sill all winter - so it gets a few hours of western mid-day sun, but it gets pretty chilly at that by the window (maybe 58F-60F at nite). So it sort of grows slowly, but in the best light i have. i have some comparison pix before winter and after, it grew quite a lot actually.

it really helps to give it as much sun as you can get.

i feed it with approximated hibiscus formula 17-5-24 soon as it starts showing yellowing leaves - which it does regularly. it needs reg feed all the time :(..

but it bloomed after 6mo of rooting and keeps producing a few flowers now and then. but it is now loaded with buds as it is in my strongest warmest sun period of maybe 4-5 hours. i'll haveta make pix to use the moment !!!!

i never put it outside - i have 2 6" pots with 3 cuttings each and they are just too small to risk it.

i tried to root 'Roseflake' past Feb - but they did not take. those pink leaves are so-o pretty! I'm bringing the heating pad this year and will try it again - i just love them! tented and on heat mat it roots much faster, like in 6 weeks.

it needs pruning often - it's supposed to be a sort of weeping hibiscus - they have standards in fl shops sometimes. it's the only dwarf hibiscus that i know of - which is why i like it - don't have much room left (keep a lot of houseplants...)

Thank you for the tips. It grows in FL so I figured it can take some cold. I did not know it is a dwarf one, though they were pruned since they are growing as hedge in FL. I also have too many plants to overwinter but this one will be on the south window for sure:)

Just curious, but why would you think that if it grows in FL it would take cold? I was surprised to see hibiscus here in N. FL (9a), but they will freeze in the panhandle (8b). They don't really like temps below freezing, in fact, one year it got down to 25 for a couple of hours, and mine lost all their leaves.

Thanks for the information. I always use it as reference when I see a plant planted in ground in Florida. 'Take cold' means that I can push a little down to lower 40s, not like other topical plants that I have to move them inside when the temp down to 50s. Never dare to leave anything to frost though. The pain of growing tropical plants in north.

Which tropicals do you protect at 50F?

Orchids, Sans, plumeria, philodendrons, Aglaonema, small colocasias, banana trees, Hoyas... (not a complete list though) I have to move them inside when the night low reaches 50. crassula (jade trees) and citrus I can wait till lower 40s. Now, I am closely monitoring this hibiscus, this year seems warmer than average so far.

i keep my jades our until it's above 35-37F and sansi until low 40s - but very dry all of them. they still get much better light outside then i can give them indoors.

My sans were moved in when the night low lower than 50. I still have my jade trees, banana, holiday cactus and citrus outside at daytime and shuffling them into garage at night. The problem of these temperatures for jade trees are most time we have rains, anything colder I am afraid of rot. Actually tomorrow probably is the last day I am doing the shuffling. Then everything is coming inside for the winter. We will have few night at the 30s.

yah, i'm finally taking everything in - suddenly going from 44 to 32F this week.