They're annuals. Let them die and replant in the spring. If you don't want to replant each spring, plant something perennial.

they root in a few days ... all you would need is one plant ... to survive thru winter .. and then about 4 or 6 weeks before they could be taken outside .. you would start propagating them by rooting ...

you will need one pot.. MEDIA.. not dirt ... then later .. seedling trays for rooting.. then cell packs.. a light stand.. rooting hormone with fungicide ... and no other things to do for a month in late winter.. lol ...

all you would do now... is take a small pot.. wet media.. and stick 3 three inch cuttings .. cover with a baggie.. put in shade ... and inside a month.. you will have your mother plant ...

YOU WOULD NEVER TAKE ALL THE PLANTS ... and i highly you suggest you leave all the soil bugs outside ...

seeing if you could get one plant to live inside.. might be fun ... but as you suspect.. the old cost/benefit ratio probably dictates.. it would be cheaper and simpler.. to just rebuy next spring ...

ken

btw .. if you have the light stand... they are rather simple to grow from seed indoors in winter ... but timing it out so that they are ready to go outside after last frost can be tricky ... the one time i did this... they were ready.. TWO MONTHS EARLY ....what a nightmare .. lol ..

OP, are your impatiens healthy?? They look rather like the dreaded downy mildew had been introduced.

I would never advise that you spend time trying to overwinter your plants inside. Even without disease pressure, they simply don't do that well.

I believe them all to be healthy. I am sure that what you are seeing is the stress of summer heat.

Yes, the amount of work is incredible to make them last until spring since I can get them new at 25c each.

It is that Hope Springs Eternal syndrome only it is attacking me now rather than in January.

I've overwintered ones I grew in hanging baskets for a couple of years. Ultimately, I found it not worth the hassle, given some other things I overwinter. Bare rooting them may stress them beyond recovery. In the end, if you've nothing else to do, then go for it.

tj

Before the "attack of the mildew", I had an Impatiens that came inside for 2 winters and stayed looking great right against a S window, propagated again in the spring to spread around the yard. I would go for quality over quantity, saving the best-of-the-best. The plants that don't fit right near an E/S/W window might not fare well enough to be worthwhile.

I would encourage you to try to fall in love with wax Begonias, which are so similar in appearance but not susceptible to getting DM, and definitely easy to overwinter.

I overwintered impatient and begonias for a few years until I decided it was not worth the effort. Some problems that I had were spider mites and mildew.

I used to take a few cuttings of my impatiens and root them then bring them inside for the winter. I let them grow and took cuttings again in the spring. That worked for a few years and then the spider mites hit. Funny they didn't look like anything was on them but there was. I tried everything from washing with cold water to spraying with insecticidal soap. I even made a solution of soap and dunked my cuttings as I took them but still some mites survived. I gave up and turned to seed. I start mine mid March on a heating mat under lights and they are ready with buds and some blooms to set out the first of June.

" I tried everything from washing with cold water to spraying with insecticidal soap. I even made a solution of soap and dunked my cuttings as I took them but still some mites survived."

"insecticidal" won't work against spider mites, kind of by definition. Spider mites are not insects. The only thing that will work against spider mites is a miticide. Read the label. If it doesn't say "miticide", don't bother.

Sorry zen_man-- unlike the USA in Canada most insecticides are banned to protect the environment. In any case it does not apply to me any more because I only use seed.

I was only trying to stress that there are problems with bringing some plants inside. I venture to say that even miticide wouldn't kill all of them and their eggs because they are prolific breeders with about a 5 day hatching cycle

I learned the lesson when I brought in Pepper plants last year.
APHIDS Galore......

Although there are remedies for this, I doubt I will bring in annuals and tender perennials over the winter again....

Actually, products that work by physical action can be effective against all arthropods, including spider mites. That includes insecticidal soap and horticultural oils. The problem is that the product must be applied to the underside of the leaves, where the majority of the mites hang out.

does anyone know the name of this Impatiens it was beautiful I would like more colors next year I bought the orange but it never grew round this this one not sure why

I always knew them to be double impatients. I do not know the proper name for them. They grow great in the shade and are very are easy to grow.

Hi Lorna,

" Does anyone know the name of this Impatiens ? "

It could be Impatiens Double Athena Purple (Bright)

The double impatiens are available in several colors.

ZM (not associated with any product or vendor mentioned or linked)

It does look like downy mildew to me also... just wondering. If that should be the case, my opinion is that you plant something else there next spring anyway. I switched over to New Guineas after losing huge borders to the downy mildew a few years back. Just my opinion and one other in the forum.

Actually, they would be very healthy if it were not for the broken irrigation system. They suffered the drought we had for a month or so. It will be a feeble attempt to revive them but I believe they answered my question about taking them in for the winter.

i am not sure I really wanted to go through all that again anyway.