Can the little ones be brought inside and grown on seedling mats (to warm the soil) and under T5's or other grow lights? If you could artificially create a good environment for them they may bulk back up. With some luck, they could be safely returned outside next growing season. Hans and others can certainly give better advice than I can!

Everado , I have saved very small bulbs by cleaning them and placing them in moist sphagnum moss in a closed zip lock bag over heat and away from direct sun. The moist sphag seems counter to what you think you should do but neither bacteria or mold will grow on it. Leave the small bulb there untill it starts to grow new leaves then gradually acclimate it to your environment (harden it off). Obviously nothing is a guarantee but this last-line-of defense usually works for me if I catch something early enough. Good luck and let us know.

Also what do you mean about mold in your house? That should not be considered normal, even in Florida and could be a health issue - take care! - J

I'm glad to hear that you had success with sphag and bag. I wasn't sure whether the bulbs would survive a transplant for me even though I'm getting roots. My Eithea colony had pink roots when I dug them up, which I thought were red blotch, so I trimmed those off, gave them a hot water treatment, sprayed them down with copper octanoate, sprinkled the cut areas with cinnamon, and put them in a bag with wet pine bark dust (I have a ton of this stuff and it resists decomposition more strongly). They are in indirect, dim light currently. They are growing new roots quickly, and some of them are pink too. I do not think it is the red blotch returning because this is not the same color at all and isn't patchy. I have seen some of my bulbs develop this same burgundy blush on the bulbs upon exposure to cinnamon and copper octanoate. Some cut areas get stained a pale red, but this seems to be a trait that varies from bulb to bulb. I think these stains are due to some kind of reaction or burn because they don't look like red blotch at all, and they are not growing in size like red blotch does. About half of my bulbs appear to be recovering now with new leaves, and I haven't seen any fiery red yet (knock on wood). As for the mold, I have lived in multiple places in Florida and always had problems with fungus and rot in indoor plants. Fungus gnats everywhere too. I think it has to do with the consistent high humidity because this was never a problem when I lived in the Midwest.

Good to hear that you are able to save your collection! You must be heaving a sigh of relief "). I always look for new growth as a sign of good health and as long as your roots are solid and not soft/mushy, it sounds like your plants are headed for recovery.

Never had trouble with mold inside as the A/C usually keeps things on the dry side. On the other hand fungus gnats and indoor growing seem to go hand and hand. One thing that helped was growing sundews near plants. They attract the gnats which stick to them, and devour them. And I like the way they look. Also having a top layer of large river sand might help. Good luck with your collection.- J

Everado, I write to you so late. But have you tried treatment with fungicides?

On hippeastrum, I was usually helped in the fight against stagonospora - Benlate (Benomyl).

Of course, jstropic gave you excellent advice: to keep bulbs in the sphagnum moss. This moss has bactericidal properties, while it is alive, i.e. fresh.

About Eithea.

Of course, as to what to suggest with this rare plant I can not. It is demanding to the regime of growth, humidity, light, especially to the ultraviolet. Study the conditions in his homeland.

We are quite limited in fungicide selection where I live. Captain is banned, and I don't remember seeing benlate. I used copper octanoate since I read that it was the only thing that could kill this stuff. If it comes back I will try to get some benlate, maybe I can buy it online. I also used cinnamon powder to seal any wounds from where I removed leaves and tunics, since I have had great results with that in the past. Currently I have just a couple bulbs that I did not repot yet that have the fungus, but it appears to no longer be spreading because of the copper spray and drier conditions. I've been keeping these quarantined from the ones I treated already. The bulbs that got the full treatment are recovering and have new growth. There were a couple I gave a hot water bath in addition to removal of infected layers and copper spray. I lost one bulb that rotted severely after a hot water bath. I had to do that because the red blotch had spread to areas in the neck that could not be cut out. All of the roots died and the basal plate was mostly destroyed and soft. I do not recommend that method except perhaps as a last resort.

As for Eithea, the bulbs are doing well in the pine bark dust and have new roots, some even have new leaves. The roots have some pink coloration and I am not sure if that is normal, copper-related stain, or return of red blotch. The copper spray causes a burgundy stain that looks very different than stag, and that is what the roots look like they have. I believe that this species prefers indirect light and frequent watering with good drainage. Mine had bloomed previously under those conditions and was forming a dense colony of about 20 small bulbs. It is a beautiful flower, so I am trying hard to save them.

If anyone in the future reads this, what I did was:

-Dig up the bulb

-Remove infected leaves with sterilized scissors (cleaned with hot water and liquid dish soap)

-Peel off dead and infected tunics

-Spray entire bulb and remaining leaves with copper octanoate

-Sprinkle a generous layer of cinnamon powder on cut/exposed areas to seal the wounds

-Repot in fresh, dry gritty mix (I use pumice instead of turface)

-Wait several hours for the copper spray to dry before watering thoroughly

Hi, you have done everything possible under your conditions. It must be remembered that any wound on the plant is the entrance gate to infection. Therefore, it is necessary to dry the bulb for a certain time. For hippeastrum this is depending on the bulb and the magnitude of the damage, 2-7 days or more. How much time in the case should be watched and installed with the help of an experiment. The bottom line is to form a layer of crust on any wound. I.e. The cells adjacent to it die and fill with a suberine. This substance is the real cork. Therefore, rot does not spread further.