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ebony_clark69

HELP WITH YUCCA

8 years ago




This is my second yucca plant — the first developed a terrible rot and all I could salvage were the little offsets that now seem to be happy and doing well.


But this one is starting to look terribly sad. I’ve tried to keep her soil somewhat drier while keeping her in front of one of the sunniest east-facing windows in our home.


When her leaves dry and droop, I prune them and I’m starting to wonder if that’s making it worse. Her stalk still feels firm — doesn’t have the squish and smell that my first one had — though her ’bark’ feels loose around the stalk, as if there’s air between the bark and the stalk.


What am I doing wrong — why I she so sad?

Comments (11)

  • 8 years ago

    Maybe you overdid it on the drying out. How dry do you let the soil get before you water?

    Ebony Clark thanked miss lindsey (She/Her)
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I kind of feel like Goldilocks with my yucca — I think I *have* given her too much water at a times and now, in an effort to counteract the overwatering, I’ve probably let her dry out too much.

    In the article you linked, this stood out:

    “Potted yucca plants may grow in full sun and flourish, but will often have browning tips or white, necrotic spots on the leaves.”

    i thought that because they can flourish in ‘desert-like’ conditions, the spot in front of the window would be ideal (unlike the shadier spot with indirect light that plagued my first).

    I just can’t really tell what the droopy leaves are telling me — can you tell in the photos?

    And THANK YOU both for your input! I’m really hopeful I can crack the code with this one.

  • 8 years ago

    how long have you had the plant? did you transplant it? when? how often do you water it? what kind of potting soil is it? can't answer without knowing the basics. It's droopy because it either stressed or in shock (or both). give it some time. better to underwater than to over water. best way to tell is to stick your finger in the dirt all the way up to your middle knuckle. if it's dry, water it. if it feels moist, don't.

    Ebony Clark thanked Beth H. :
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I’ve had her since sometime this summer. I tansplanted her the day I bought her from her original pot to the ceramic pot she’s in now.

    I think I used a standard, run-of-the-mill potting soil — nothing succulent-specific — with a drainage platform inside, usually the bottom portion of the original black plastic pot with holes throughout.

    As for watering, it’s been inconsistent now that she’s taken a turn. I’d say I average about 1.5-2 cups of water every week or two. But it’s probably been about that long now since I was worried I’d overwatered her so I’ve let her dry out.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    hmmm,,,ok. nothing too bad. and it was fine for awhile after you transplanted? the only thing I can think of is the roots. If there isn't enough room in there and they are cramped, it would wilt. also, if the water isn't getting to all of the roots evenly, it might wilt. when you transplanted, was there ample room for the roots to fit or did you have to squeeze them into the new pot? when transplanting, you normally like to do a pot at least 1-2" bigger all the way around and at the top

    and yes,,as mentioned below, there must be a hole in the bottom.

    Ebony Clark thanked Beth H. :
  • 8 years ago

    Does the ceramic pot itself have a drainage hole? If not, it is likely the soil now has a high perched water table and the roots are rotting. Water needs to run freely out of the container.....no exceptions!! I'd also want to see what sort of potting soil you have been using......that could also be a factor, as mentioned above.

    And finally when you do water, you want to water fully - not just a cup or two. Water until all the soil is thoroughly hydrated and water runs out the bottom of the container, then leave until the soil is dry for the first few inches. Use a wooden dowel to test.

    Ebony Clark thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I think there was enough room for the plant since I didn't have to force it to fit in the pot when I transplanted it. Also, I don't know if I still have more of the soil I planted her in to give you more info -- but it looks to be a pretty crummy mix -- complete with wood chips -- if I'm being honest.

    And the ceramic pot does have a drainage hole but since it didn't come with the drain pan, I kind of fashioned an internal drain pan. I cut the bottom off the black pot she came in, flipped it upside down and then put her on top and filled the ceramic pot with soil -- so she wouldn't sit in excess water when it drained.

    Now, it is possible I'm not watering enough if a cup or two is insufficient and it is possible her roots are rotting if my makeshift drainage pan system doesn't work. I plan to take her out, check her roots and put fresh soil. If there's something I should do while I have her out for inspection, please advise.

    So far, I know I should add about 2" of rocks/pebble stones on the bottom and water her fully. If she is waterlogged, is there anything I can do to help?

  • 8 years ago

    "So far, I know I should add about 2" of rocks/pebble stones on the bottom and water her fully. If she is waterlogged, is there anything I can do to help?"

    NO rocks or pebbles at the bottom!! Contrary to popular belief, this practice slows drainage, not enhances it, and simply serves to raise the PWT. And a woody or bark based potting mix is exactly what you do want.......either the 5-1-1 - or even more suitable - the gritty mix described in detail on the Container Gardening forums. Or a similar, very durable cactus and succulent mix.

    If water logged, remove all the existing soil surrounding the roots and inspect for rot. Healthy roots should be pale in color and firm and with no odor. Rotted roots will be mushy, smell bad and brown or black in color. These will need to be cut off. Repot with fresh soil of the type described above.

    Saucers or plastic drainage dishes can be purchased in a wide variety of sizes at places like Home Depot or any garden store and can be used under the decorative pot to prevent water damage to whatever surfaces the pot may be on. Do not let water accumulate in the saucer.....dump any excess after watering the plant.

    Ebony Clark thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
  • 8 years ago

    THANK YOU! So you're saying there's a chance I can save her? AWESOME! I sure hope so.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Yes it is simply overwatered. I would recommend it being in a potting mix that has perlite. As mentioned before it MUST have holes in the bottom no exceptions. It can still bunch back. After transplanting a over watered plant, never water it right away(waiting usually 2 days). Trying to allow the drier soil to absorb moisture from the soaked/rotting roots. Allow as much bright light as possible- south or west facing window. I hope it turns around for you.

    I'm in zone 5b and do have a decent size one that was started as a small sprout 4 years ago which is not 4-5 feet tall with a pup. They seem love it dry so it gets watered every 3-4 weeks.


    Ebony Clark thanked User