Southern black blueberry, and various roses. All of it winter hardy here.

According to Mike from Mike's Backyard Nursery, if the plant is cold hardy for your area, there is no need to bring in cuttings for the winter.

Bringing things inside presents all kinds of problems I'd personally rather not deal with. Artificial grow lights, which are very expensive and unsightly. Finding a spot in your house that your wife doesn't mind housing said unsightly grow lights, along with dirt and mist and other nastiness. Furnace making the air dry. All sorts of things.

"According to Mike from Mike's Backyard Nursery, if the plant is cold hardy for your area, there is no need to bring in cuttings for the winter."

Will not necessarily be true for all plants :-) Some will require heat to generate any roots. And roots are the most cold sensitive portion of the plant and can be easily damaged in temps that would have no effect on the top growth. You never see this with established plants as the ground soil is a huge insulator but any cuttings or plants in containers are far more vulnerable to cold and that needs to be evaluated on a species by species basis. Propagation details should be available for any common plant species if you Google by the botanical name and 'propagation'.

btw, I would take info from Mike's Backyard Nursery with a very large grain of salt. I have encountered that websites several times and some of the information it contains is often very inaccurate or against common horticultural practices. Just saying...........

I'll defer to you then if you have extensive experience with propagation. I have read and watched quite a bit, but my own experience with it is limited and with mixed success. A lot of what I have watched on youtube is from Mike as well, so if he's full of it then I've acquired a lot of false knowledge. I have heard people criticize him quite a bit. His methods don't always work for me either. For example, he swears by coarse sand, whereas most people recommend peat and perlite. I've had success with the sand on easy to root things, but I've actually found that it tends to compact quite a bit believe it or not. Maybe the container I used had inadequate drainage. I don't know. I used a plastic tote with holes drilled into it. Maybe not enough holes. He does his stuff in beds outdoors. Big difference. But the peat and perlite seems to stay more fluffy and allow for more air to the root zone. On the other hand, he shows on his videos how successful he is with propagation. Looks like, at least from what he shows, that his success rate is very high.

I recall seeing what looked like raised beds filled with sand that he used for propagation, especially hardwood cuttings. A raised bed filled with sand is going to drain very, very differently than a container filled with sand. You can use much slower-draining materials in raised beds than in containers without running into problems.

Yeah, I've found that getting moisture levels correct has been the biggest challenge for me when propagating. I do almost all my propagating on a very small scale with a small plastic tote filled with medium placed inside a larger tote acting as the humidity dome. I've had decent success with some plants, but also a lot of rotting issues. I've thought about just using straight perlite for maximum drainage. Right now I've abandoned the sand in favor of 1/2 perlite and 1/2 peat on a batch of Leyland Cypress that I am letting sit outside for the winter, hoping for some roots in the spring. Medium once again appears too wet. Wish I went with 2/3 perlite with the colder conditions. I did treat the medium with about 5% bleach before I started, and I am not seeing any rotting so far. Also dealing with woody stems, which should reduce rotting considerably.

Have you tried using the 5-1-1 mix from the Container Gardening Forum for your cuttings? It is what I am currently using (I have been propagating woody shrubs and herbaceous perennials), and I have been having a lot of success. It is a very fast-draining mix that tends not to become waterlogged.

I'll head over there and try to find that information. My plan for now has been to take the dome (bigger tote) off for a few hours every time it is sunny and I get the chance in order to evaporate off some of the excess moisture. However, it's been very rainy here in the Austin area for the past couple weeks. Honestly, with the cuttings being conifers and it being winter, I probably don't even need the humidity dome. But it's raining so much that the dome is actually preventing excess moisture as much as it is keeping moisture in. The other thing is that I have two large dogs who will destroy anything in the yard they can get access to, so the dome is providing physical protection as well. So I can only take off the dome when I have direct control over the whereabouts of the dogs.