I might start by taking these photos along with measurements into a good quality lighting store near you to see what if any ideas they have.

A couple of other thoughts:

Is the electrical part working? Is it just the glass or are there other parts that you want to fix/restore? Planning to just repaint or also do rust removal on the exterior?

With low temperature lights, you may find that someone can replace the frosted glass with a frosted sheet of flexible outdoor-grade plastic, especially if it is sited in an area that might appeal to those who enjoy breaking glass.

Im going to repaint the pole, but was hoping to find glass to fix the light part. I havent gotten it to work yet.

Is that gas or electric? You’re going to need several custom trades here. Start with whichever trade deals with the guts. Either an electrician or a plumber with a gas fitter license. Check to see if the supply line be to it is in good. Or else any glass or iron restoration is going to be the wrong priority.

Too often old lights shine up instead of down, adding to light pollution. Whatever you do, please make sure your light joins the 21st century.

Joseph, it seems like since its has a frosted flame & cylinder, it shouldnt cause any pollution. Also, its under a canopy of trees. But, thanks for the info.

Neat light. Is it electric or gas (per NHBabs question)? I'm going to assume it is electric, or it had been gas and was converted to electric. But you should determine if supply is good first before wasting any time or money on mechanical restoration.

That being the case, like Sophie Wheeler said, you may still need a couple trades. You will have to find glass cylinder. Maybe you'll get lucky and find a stock size. That may be the hardest thing to have done if you need custom.

You will need electrician and handiman (or someone who does both). If electric, you'll have to re-seal as necessary, making sure you have breathing holes somewhere on the bottom for condensation.

If refurbishing the light on top becomes too expensive or difficult, you could always keep the pole (which looks way cool also), mount an adapter plate for a standard 3" diameter post light, and replace completely with a new light. There are many available now that look vintage and can be fit with LED bulbs, greatly reducing the chore of replacing bulbs on this remote light.

Here's the one we are using to replace failing 35-year-old pier lights at my house. It's 30" high:

https://www.z-lite.com/products/543PHB-BK-PM/

The rest of this response is editorial, regarding light pollution. If it's electric and the top part is glass and it is open to the light source below, then you are sending light up, even if it's frosted (unless it truly is opaque). From your photo, there are trees in the background, but they are far off, and it looks like the post is in the sun (based on shadows).

However, I'm not going to preach about what you can or can't do. I've been on both sides. Once I asked a local forum for opinions on PAR30 bulb beam spread on outdoor soffit lights around the perimeter of my house. And I had some try to lecture me about light pollution (including those that didn't understand that by definition and based on photos that the soffit lights are down-facing). I had to explain that these lights are for use when we are on the deck or in the courtyard, and weren't overnight security lights.

I'm also the victim of bright, obnoxious overnight security lights in the front yard and entry of the house in front of us. They are new and look nice, but annoying. I'm cultivating a friendship with our neighbor (we've only been in this older neighborhood 1.5 and 2.5 years respectively) and will someday ask him about using a programmable dimmer to reduce the output after 11 PM.

Finally, I'm replacing post lights in the front of my house, and am cognizant of the light pollution from my lights. I've chosen ambient style lights with a cap on top, and will use 2200 K, 300 lumen candelabra bulbs in them, and reduce output to 50% after midnight. However, they are needed for safety for ourselves and guests, and for security - so I won't have no light.

-Adam

Thanks for all the info Adam. It is electric. I’ll discuss the pollution issue with my electrician.

Good luck! The post and light on top are so cool... if you can preserve them, you should try to keep the design, even if there is some light pollution out the top. But if you have to replace the light, then consider a model with a cap. Follow up if you can. I'd be interested to see the end result.

After admiring this beautiful lamp I decided to send the pictures off to a friend who owns a major wholesale lighting company. He, in turn has contacted several others in the business on the chance they might be helpful. In the meantime they are requesting the measurements of the diameter and height of the existing globe. Also they need to know if the top knot part is part of the globe or does it sit separately? So, post the needed measurements and let's see what happens.

I had an old gaslight on my property and the most helpful people at the gas company helped me get it up and running. I figured out why after I got the bill for running it!

@nandina Thank you. I will post them asap

@nandina Im finally back to rehabbing my light pole. The glass part is 13 inches high and 10 inches in diameter. The top part appears to not be connected. There are screws, but we’re still trying to remove all the years of paint. The light is electric.

We had a similar light a few years ago my first stop was the local Ace Hardware where I was successful with a few parts. I would call house of antique hardware if they don’t have parts they might be able to give you some direction to try next. Another thought is a local building salvage shop seems each town now days has at least one.

msnitmit...Your lamp measurements noted and forwarded to my lighting specialist friend. Hopefully, there might be some help forthcoming.

msnitmit...Some voluntary experts have been researching your need for a 10" diameter/13" tall glass cylinder replacement. To date the only possibility found has been a clear acrylic one, 1/1" thick. Cost would be $385.00 plus freight. A glass one was not located and it would probably need to be custom made. Expensive! This would encourage me to contact online salvage companies. Maybe some of our Forum participants would assist your search and make a few calls to area salvage companies trying to locate your needed frosted glass cylinder.

Thank you @nandina. One person also recommended polyurethane. When it warms up here this weekend, we’ll be able to get up there & see what exactly comes apart and what will be replaceable.

Have you checked with 'Restoration Hardware'?