Please help with soaker hose design.

8 years ago

last modified: 8 years ago

Dear Gardeners,

I would really appreciate your help. I have about a 80-90’
long to 8-11’ wide somewhat weirdly shaped raised plant bed. The bed has about a
1.5’ slope, and while I always water the bed once or twice a week during the
hottest summer months, looks like this is not enough as over the years, I have lost
many plants, located mostly at the highest points of the slope. I would like to
use something similar to a soaker hose. Since the plants were planted into the
bed in a chaotic way, I can’t use a soaker hose that goes directly to each
plant. I also need something that can be set up quickly without my husband
getting involved. I believe that the use of regular garden hoses that will run
through the length of the bed similar to what is shown on the pic attached would
be the easiest way.

I plan to do the following steps to each of the hoses:

1. Drill evenly spaced holes along the length of the 100' hose – hole
on one side followed by a hole on the opposite side (5” apart) and so on.

2. Screw a hose cap onto one end of the hose.

3. Attach the open end of the soaker hose to a 3-way metal hose connector.

I will then attach the 3-way metal hose connector to a garden hose.

I understand that I can only run one 100’ hose at a time, so only one of the 3-way connectors will be open at a
time. I will use a timer to run each 100’ soaker hose for 30 minutes.

My questions:

1. Will this setup work?

2. I understand that I have to turn the spigot on
just enough to make water seep from the holes. Or is it better to install a
water pressure regulator? If, yes, which one should I use?

3. I have been gardening for a few years and have never used a hose backflow valve. Should I install one now?

Thank you in advance.

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Comments (2)

Jean
8 years ago
No, that system will not work.

- soaker hoses are for level land because they are NOT pressure-compensated.

- If you drill holes in soaker hose, it is NO LONGER a drip/trickle system because of the excessive output.

- For sloping land, use pre-made hose with pressure-compensated openings at intervals, such as 8 or 9 inches, 12 inches, or 16 inches. (What will you plant at 5 feet apart?)

- Pressure regulators help limit outflow from the spigot. They make irrigation much easier than if you need to play games trying to turn the spigot on just a smidge. (Don't bother asking how I know.)

- Yes, it works to turn on just one 100-ft run at a time.

- 30-minute runtime is likely to be far too brief.

Everyone must "test" their own system to determine how long it will take to moisten the entire rootzone of the plants. The test: run the system for 30 minutes; turn it off and wait an hour, then probe/dig the soil to determine how deep and wide the water went.

Yes, you need a backflow prevention device. It protects your drinkable water.
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years ago
I will agree with most of the above :-) Except that I have used soakers on a slope and they work fine. To work most efficiently on a slope, you want the hose end of the soaker on the upper most portion - this is where the maximum emission/water pressure of the hose is located. And the gradient of the slope will encourage the water to percolate down through both the soil profile AND the gradient to provide water rather uniformly throughout.
- 100' is the maximum length you should be using.
- A recycled rubber soaker hose without any additional holes is necessary.
- You should use a pressure regulator to make sure the tap water pressure is not excessive.....no more than 10 psi. The water should just barely ooze or sweat out of the hose
- Yes, you need a backflow preventer.
- Cover the soaker with a layer of mulch. This will slow the eventual deterioration of the hose.
- Length of watering duration will depend on soil conditions and to a lesser extent, the weather. I run mine for about 4 hours. You want the water to penetrate to a depth of at least 8-10" and spread outward into a fan shape under the soil surface.
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