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dandylioness

Help improving soil and getting a thicker Tall Fescue lawn

I actually have 2 properties with different lawn issues that I need help with. Both are tall fescue lawns. I mow high, apply organic fertilizers, and water deeply and infrequently. i want to improve the soil and get a thicker lawn and need help achieving that!


property 1: lawn was sodded 5 years ago. Main issue is that there are patches of healthy TF and bare patches. This is a uniform issue that basically makes the lawn feel bumpy when you walk on it. I’ve tried overseeding but many areas didn’t sprout. I noticed that small leaves accumulate in the bare patches and I’m wondering if the seed couldn’t get to the soil. It’s hard to remove all the leaves first because the bare patches are hidden amongst healthy patches and uniformly spread throughout the lawn. Is it a good idea to topdress the whole lawn and then overseed it again?


property 2: older lawn with weed issues. Dandelions, black medic, spurge, pow annual (I think), and dallisgrass. The dallisgrass is the most annoying to remove. I’ve been hand pulling many of them but don’t want all my work to go to waste with new weeds coming in. So I’m wondering if I should use a chemical pre emergent now and then continue with my organic program? can I overseed and also use a pre emergent for the weeds? Which preemergent is recommended?



Comments (3)

  • 8 years ago

    What does a soil test tell you about the soils pH and nutrient levels?

    How much organic matter is in the soils?

    How well do these soils drain?

    How well do these soils retain moisture?

    What do these soils smell like?

    What kind of life is in these soils?

    In addition to a good soil test for pH and major nutrient levels perhaps these simple soil tests may be of some help.

    in a clear 1-quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid,
    tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil
    will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good
    loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 1)
    Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to
    make a 4 inch level inch (about 25%) of
    silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%)
    of organic matter on the top.

    2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1-foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that
    with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and
    time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your
    soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage
    down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of
    organic matter to speed it up.

    3) Tilth. Take a handful
    of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
    released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
    finger that clump should fall apart.

    4) Smell. What does your
    soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
    odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
    will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
    can be bad as well.

    5) Life. How many
    earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
    according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
    is not healthy.

  • 8 years ago
    Haven’t done the jar test but will do it soon. 1)Have never done a soil test either but I’ve seen it recommended so much on here that I probably should. Logan labs still the recommended place?

    2) Drainage for property 1 is decent.

    drainage for property 2 is slow. In fact my biggest issue is that I have a lot of runoff so I can’t water continuously to get down 1 inch. I did a bit of an experiment last year and added alfalfa a couple times to one side of the lawn, and that side definitely looks better than the other. I’m planning to add organic material monthly this year to feed the soil and hopefully improve it. But what type of organic matter and at what rate is what I need help with.



    3) Tilth is so so. Both properties are more clay-like but not too bad. Soil definitely clumps together but depending on how much water is in it they won’t break apart. Like if we have a hard rain..

    4)there’s no bad smell. Def not that great earthy smell either. It’s better at property 1.

    5) Property 1 has less earthworms...not sure why because I’ve been much better at feeding the soil there.
    Surprisingly there is many an earthworm at property 2! I know this because I didn’t even need to use a shovel to find plenty. I’ve been systematically hand pulling all the black medic and they come out of pretty much every spot I disturb. This is the first time I’ve seen so many
  • 8 years ago

    What type of organic material to add to any soil depends on what is fairly readily available. There really is no bad type of organic material. Recycling the grass clippings, mulch mowing, is always a good start. Shredded leaves are a good addition, but what ever you can get relatively easily and cheaply would be good.

    The odor (smell) of soil is a reflection of how active the Soil Food Web is. A good active SFW will produce a pleasant, earthy, smell. To have a good active SFW requires a level of organic matter in soil that will support them, something around 5 percent although I do prefer something close to 6 to 8 percent.

    Drainage in clay soil types is very dependent on the amount of organic matter in soil because that organic matter separates the clay soil particles so water can flow more easily. Tilth is also improved with adequate amounts of organic matter.

    Now, I have referenced organic material and organic matter here which many people lump together as the same thing although they are not. Organic material is what you add to soil while organic matter is the residual organic material in the soil. You need to add to soil more organic material than the Soil Food Web is going to digest each year to stay ahead of them.

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