Cheap & easy, keep it simple, C&S mix w/ added Perlite (50/50 each). Must be at least 50% Perlite, maybe even 75%. Sans. don't care what kind of mix they're in as long as it's fast draining; that's not negotiable.

From what I understand, only one species is invasive in Florida. Sans. hyacinthoides. The common S. trifasciata survives but is not considered invasive in Florida. The two look similar but there is differences. Can you show us a picture of what you got. Russ knows more about this.

Remember to keep your leaves shaded and moist (not wet) while rooting. Up north, moisture is our enemy. I agree with Karen about perlite. While rooting, keep it on the high side like 75%. Growing I prefer 50/50.

Thanks Stush, I can't attach a photo right now unfortunately, but this is definitely a triscasiata. It's dark and silvery -- long leaves, not wide -- pretty much the same Sans that everyone calls a Zeylanica, mostly because Home Depot usually labels it that way, here in FL and other places too. But I know it's just a common (but very pretty) trisfasciata. That's okay with me.

I have a question. I now have 3 pots of leaf sections planted in C/S soil with HEAVY perlite. When you say to keep them "moist" -- are you referring to watering the soil lightly or misting the leaves? We are already going into summery weather here so 75 degrees is no problem. But I am uncertain about how to keep the leave "moist" while they root. Can you advise?

I hope Russ post in. He transplanted some to his house. You just described S. hyacinthoides as well. They do look very much alike.

In warmer weather, keep in shade and I mist mine with a spray bottle. Some advise against it but in warmer weather, I do. I heard never water till it produces roots to absorb the water but I like to keep the soil slightly moist between dry spells.

Thanks Stush. I haven't propagated Sans that way, but I am going to try it because....I could use more success than I have had in the past!

Stush & I disagree abt this, but I only grow indoors, I believe he summers his plants outside. I tend to wait to see new growth before I water.

I would suggest a compromise, if you feel you must keep something moist, just mist the soil pls, not the leaves.

Thanks Karen. I have never misted leaves before. I actually grew a new Sans boncel from a portion of a leaf that broke from a plant just by plopping it in a medium and waiting. But when I have tried with trisfasciata, I have not had so much success. FL has lots of humidity come summer, so I think I will try misting the soil mix first and see what happens.

You're welcome, happy to help. Wanted to add I missed your mention of Pumice, if you've got that, mix that into the mix instead of Perlite. I have both, & prefer the Pumice for my Succulents & the Perlite more for tropicals & other non-succulents. I consider them interchangeable really, for improving drainage.

If you've succeeded w/ the Boncel in dry mix, I'd try that again w/ another Sans. It can take very long, I tend to put them aside& forget abt them for a while. Good luck & have fun w/ it!

Robin, all info here is good. I'm in central Florida with high humidity like yours, I keep leaf cuttings on the dry side until they've rooted, only sprinkling very lightly every few days. I'd probably just mist them if I had a spritz bottle.

Like Stush, I prefer at least 75 percent perlite, or more. Perlite looks the same moist or dry, so I add a little Miracle-Gro as a moisture indicator. It will be dark brown when wet, lighter when dry. Peat moss has a habit of resisting water when bone-dry, so I like Miracle-Gro which has an added wetting agent. Both of these materials are relatively sterile, which is important when rooting. If I had a cheap source for pumice, I would use it with or instead of perlite.

No one has mentioned letting cut ends dry before planting, this might be why you've lost flat-leaved cuttings in the past. Lay leaves in a well-lit place until cut ends are completely dry. Four or five days are probably enough for flat-leaved types, a week to ten days might be needed for thick and cylindrical leaf types. The ends will look light-colored or white when dry. Once planted, another few days completely dry won't hurt, to be on the safe side.

Let us know how it goes, more questions are fine.

Hey Stush, how's your weather up there... any warming trends yet?

Russ

Thank you Russ, We had some more snow after the rain. High winds and a tree fell over just missing my 100 year old garage. I know it would have splinted it to pieces. It's my friend's tree and no damage to me. I'll cut it up when it warms up some.

Russ, I was hoping you'll explain the difference and maybe a picture or two about the wild sans in Florida. I know you transplanted some from the beach growing in sand.

Robin, Maybe if you asked the owner of the sans cuttings they could tell you and show you their main plant. My self, if I was going to grow some outside like you could, I would go with S. trifasciata Laurentii and enjoy the variegation. You will loose any variegation with cuttings. (at least mostly). I know Tiffany grows outside in zone 8 and always has extras to give out come fall when she digs them up. She has postings here about them.

Thanks, both, to Russ and Stush. My leaf cuttings are planted and sitting in indirect light (at best), so we'll see. I know they are common -- nothing special -- but a trifasciata that I don't have. They probably WILL revert. Sans are SOOO common here in FL, both in pots and PIG (as you know, Russ). I just thought they had very pretty dark green and silvery markings, so I grabbed. Stush -- I think the owners dug up the entire plant and put it out in the yard waste pile -- sure looked like it. Lots of people here do that. That's why I wan't too afraid to rustle through their yard waste and pick the best leaves! Little trash picker that I am!

I'm guilty as well. Did it.