I would go with option 3. My trees were exposed to wind last week and all the new growth wilted. The next day when the wind stopped blowing, the growth returned to normal. The wind not only can damage the leaves, but dehydrate them. With option 3, you would get at least 7 hours sunlight.

Denise - on one of the first days they were out this season, it was particularly windy and all the new growth was damaged and eventually turned crispy. Now that they’ve been out more, I haven’t seen any damage from the wind, even on the new growth. I kind of assumed that they adjust to the conditions

I would go with #3 or #4. Citrus are more shade tolerant than we often give them credit for - they survive the winter inside, after all. Wind tolerance in my experience varies from variety to variety and seems to be largely correlated to tree toughness - my Yuzu laughs off winds that cause lemons, which along with limes are way pickier than other citrus, to sulk.

#1 until they bloom, then #3... You can tell I love compromises..

Alanna, once you give them a couple weeks to acclimate to full sun, I think I would keep them in #1 full sun. To keep my trees from blowing over I drive 3 bamboo stakes into the ground around my pots and tie cord or a wire around the top of the spikes and around the pot and they have never blown over. I think the trees will adapt to the wind. I wonder if you could spray them with an anti-transpirant to help them the first couple of weeks or maybe cover them with a light weight row cover to protect them for a couple of weeks. I try to find full sun places for all my trees, which is not so easy in my shady yard. I have noticed that some need a little more protection than others and move those to a slightly shadier spot if they look like they need it. Most do best in full sun though. I don't think the sun is as strong here in the northeast as in the south during the summer. I have never experienced having any of them get sun scald that requires painting their trunks or giving their leaves a light diluted protective spray for their leaves once they are are moved gradually into full sun. I guess a protective paint and leaf spray would not hurt them though if you think the location could be stressful to the trees with a combination of wind and sun. If your trees are in black or dark pots you might want to paint the pots white or cover them with something light colored to try to keep the pots and roots from overheating in the sun. I think that is more of a problem for us here in the northeast than the sun scalding the trunk and leaves. Good luck!

Cory

Not a single agreement in location - that is impressive! Everyone has valid points, but I still haven’t made a decision. The trees were in what I consider a protected spot today, as they’re still recovering from barerooting. The wind picked up and the next thing I knew, my shiranui was on the ground and there’s 511 everywhere. No matter where I put them, they need to be staked. I like your idea, Cory. I’ll need to pick up my stakes

I can certainly add to the confusion here :) I do not know how hot it it gets at your location. In places where afternoon temps gets past say 85F+ or so regularly the photosynthetic efficiency decreases. For even higher temperatures the plant may temporarily shutdown all together to conserve water. So in general photosynthesis is more efficient from morning to early afternoon in such conditions.

As a side note: In hot deserts plants like cactus have adapted themselves to do a major part of photosynthesis during dark hours.

In general it doesn’t go above 85 here. Most of the summer, the high hovers around 75-85, with plenty of humidity. There’s always one week where it’s between 90-100, but that’s the exception. I live in a patch of NY filled with rolling hills and wandering rivers.

1) Negative. Potted citrus need some shade and some wind protection.

2) Good option

3) Good option

4) Negative not enough sun

*Any plant including cactus can get a sunburn. Plants need time to aclimatize to the sun.

*Terra-Cotta never blows over, works to cool roots and drain soil.

*Pot temperature, soil temperature, leaf temperature, and root temperature are all indepdent of air temperature.

*I grow under an unbrella. Controls, wind, sun, and rain. Orange trees loved it.

*The unbrella will blow away long before these pots can tip over.

Toronto Canada summer of 2020. Many garden failures are a direct result of container temperature.